








► > 3>JP > 


J»> ^ 


/ » > > 


;>> j> J» 


•>>> > > 


^ JB- > 


» •>>> > 


|B > 


l> SK> > 


> J> > 


»• ^D> > 


> ■> 


I* "'«> > 


? ^ 


3^ U>> 5 


J> 


:^ >j» > 


• JJP 


>-»> > )»;. 


TB \ 


^ > Ti> ) 


#> 




s» 


* ^ -» 


s» 






UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 















j££te I 



>2> 






























"*S 












sirs* ^i. 



dfel 



«f'V 



NEW SYSTEM 

op 

EDUCATING HORSES 

INCLUDING 

IKSTRUCTIOXS OX FEEDING, WATERING, ETC. 

ALSO 

HOW SHOEING SHOULD BE DONE ; 

WITH 

SIMPLE PRACTICAL TREATMENT POR DISEASES. 
ILLUSTRATED. 

INCLUDING A 

LARGE NUMBER OF VALUABLE RECIPES 

NOT BEFORE PUBLISHED. 

BY D. MAGNER. 

J^°° This work is written by the Author for the use of his Subscribers. 

Ninth Edition, Revised and Enlarged, 



BUFFALO: 
WAEEEN, JOHNSON & CO., PRINTERS. 

1870. 



SF2?7 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1870, 

By D. MAGNER, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



TO PURCHASERS. 



This Book and my System being copyrighted, purchasers have every right of 
using, but no right of teaching or transferring to others the Book or its con- 
tents. Those doing so will render themselves liable to prosecution. 



PKEEACE. 



The present (ninth) edition of my book will be 
found by far the most practical and valuable of any I 
have yet published on the education, reformation, care, 
breeding and diseases of the Horse. Since my former 
edition was issued, I have had a large experience in 
the treatment of diseases — have spent considerable 
time and money in studying with the best veterinary 
practitioners in this country to obtain the latest and 
best methods of treating all the common forms of dis- 
eases of horses which are here given. The Medical 
Department of this work will be found particularly 
valuable, as in it are given remedies and simple treat- 
ment for diseases, many of which have never been 
given to the public, and will be found invaluable. 
The success and satisfaction with which my previous 
editions have been received by my former patrons and 
pupils, gives me assurance that the many new and 
valuable features contained in this work will be duly 
appreciated. 

D. MAGKEK, 



Jg^lp^ Inquiries for this book, or concerning other business, 
should ba addressed to D. Magner, Jamestown, Chautauqua 
County, 1ST. Y. Price of book, $5.00. 



EDUCATION OF HORSES. 



' V-ii:- 




• ■■■'■■ 




The Hoese, by nature, is averse to the control of man, 
and, of course, knows nothing of the various ways by which 
he is made to serve the wants of man, except as he is taught. 

The Theoey of subjection and management which has 
been explained and illustrated to you in my class, however 
valuable and effective it may seem, can prove so to you only 
to the degree that you are patient, careful and prudent in its 
application, and with the hope of being able to aid you still 
further in correcting some of the grave faults in common 
practice, I wish to call your attention to a few of the common 
causes of trouble and failure arising from ignorance of the 
peculiarities of disposition in horses, as well as imprudence 
in their management, which should be very carefully guarded 
against. It must be admitted that our present theoey, both 
for general and special resistance, is by far the most scientific 
and practical that has yet been discovered or brought to 
notice, and that we can now produce results in the subjection 
of horses, which were regarded as impossible a few years ago. 
"We have shown how easy it is to control the most powerful 
horse, and how readily the most vicious animal will yield 
perfect obedience to every command when properly treated. 



6 INTELLECTUAL NATUKE. 

But these and all other principles are only rules, by the use 
of which certain results are to be secured, and their chief 
value in practice must depend upon the judgment used in 
applying them. 

The horse has an intellectual, as well as a physical nature, 
and both are governed by fixed laws. He is an animal of 
great strength and acute sensibilities, and since it is through 
the sensibilities that the mind is excited to action in calling 
the strength into play, it is highly important that the nervous 
system should not be exposed to influences which would 
excite its undue action, and tend to increase resistance when 
once aroused. 




Tomht— one of Prof. Magner's noted trained horses— the best trick pony in 
the world. 

The mind, or brain, controls the actions of the animal, and 
it is to this that our efforts must be directed, as the key 
through which success is to be achieved in training and edu- 
cating the horse. It is through the brain that the horse 
understands and obeys, and it is by subjecting the brain, or 
nervous system to bad impressions that resistance or fear is 
excited. If fear is excited and the will aroused in securing 



PRINCIPLES OF MENTAL CONTROL. 7 

obedience, the resistance of the animal is stimulated, the legit- 
imate authority and control of the driver weakened or neu- 
tralized, and the necessity for force greatly increased. If, 
however, physical resistance is overcome without arousing 
the passions or creating fear, no resistance being excited, 
obedience is easily secured. It should therefore be the first 
and constant care with every one, as it is one of the great con- 
ditions of success, to guard against causes of excitement, 
which always increase the difficulties, not only by so con- 
fusing the mind that it cannot act clearly, but by increasing 
the amount of resistance which it is so important to prevent. 

The physical powers of man are so inferior to those of the 
horse that controlling him by mere force is out of the ques- 
tion, nor is it necessary. The superiority of mind over mat- 
ter has been fully demonstrated. We find, by studying the 
horse's weak points, and taking him at a disadvantage, the 
impression can be made upon his mind that man's strength is 
superior to his, and when once he is thoroughly convinced 
that resistance on his part is entirely useless, this impression 
answers the same end for all practical purposes, as if man 
were really the stronger party. "We have already shown 
you how this impression may easily be made, and in the 
reformation of horses with confirmed bad habits, this is the 
first point to be gained ; but great care and good judgment 
is necessary, or there is danger of exciting renewed and des- 
perate resistance, sometimes producing a reckless disregard of 
all restraint, bordering on insanity, or a stupid indifference, 
which is quite as difficult to overcome. 

As soon as the horse yields to the treatment and submits 
quietly to what is required, we must hasten to secure the 
cooperation of his affections by kindness, and by giving him 
something which he likes. This course must be continued, 
rewarding for obedience and punishing in the way which you 
have been shown, for disobedience, until the character becomes 
fixed. This is important, and must never be forgotten. 

Many of the characteristics of man have their counterpart 
in the horse, and we also find a similar diversity of organiza- 
tion. As in man, so also in the horse. The more the lower, 
coarser, or animal characteristics predominate, or the more 
the bad nature is excited, the more unreliable and obstinate 
the character, and the more difficulty will be had in securing 
obedience. 



8 DANGER OF HARSH TREATMENT. 

The grand point to be attained is to overcome the animal's 
natural opposition to restraint, and render his will entirely sub- 
servient to that of his master, and the great lesson which must 
be thoroughly impressed upon the mind of the horse is that 
" disobedience will be punished with pain, but obedience will 
be rewarded with kindness. The general theory and princi- 
ples by which this is to be done have been sufficiently illus- 
trated to you, and it is my purpose to give in this book only 
such suggestions and instructions as will enable you to apply 
my system successfully to the various cases and different 
subjects necessary in the training and subjection of horses. 

From the very commencement, I would caution you against 
pounding, kicking, yelling and jerking your horse under any 
circumstances, as such treatment can only irritate and confuse 
the animal. You must be very patient and thorough in first 
getting the horse to understand what you wish him to do, 
taking great care not to excite his fear or resistance, as that 
will surely involve you in a contest for the mastery, which 
should be avoided if possible ; for, though you may gain the 
victory, saying nothing of other dangers, the probabilities are 
ten to one that the disposition of your horse will suffer in the 
struggle. Remember, if you would have kind and reliable 
horses you must cultivate the better part of their natures, 
inducing obedience by kindness, without arousing the bad 
nature, and continue this treatment carefully and patiently, 
until prompt obedience to your every command becomes a 
habit firmly fixed. 

Importance of Uniformity in Language. 

Horses cannot understand the meaning of language except 
so far as associated with actions. To teach a colt to stop at 
the word "whoa" we must first pull upon the halter or bridle 
at the same time that we give the command, and continue to 
associate this action with the word until he will obey the 
word without the action. In the same manner we must 
teach the meaning of "go on" or any other signal to advance, 
by first using a motion of the hand or a touch of the whip in 
connection with the command. So the meaning of the word 
"back" and all other words used to express commands, must 
be carefully and thoroughly taught, one thing at a time, until 
clearly understood. Since the horse cannot obey two com- 
mands at once, and has not the power of reason, it seems as 



ALWAYS BE UNIFOKM IN LANGUAGE. 9 

if the necessity of being uniform in language when addressing 
the horse, would be felt and appreciated by every one. That 
is, always use the same words in giving the same command. 
Do not say whoa, when you wish your horse to go on ; or go 
on, or get up, when you mean stop ; but always say just what 
you mean, and then require your horse to do it promptly. 
Have a certain word or signal for every different command, 
and always use that and no other. Carelessness or irregu- 
larity in giving your commands will make your horse careless 
in obeying you. Now it is a common fault with most men, 
in training and using their horses, to talk and act so care- 
lessly in managing them, that it is absolutely impossible for 
the best trained horses to understand or obey their commands. 
Of course it is not intentional, and is the result of thought- 
lessness rather than lack of judgment. To illustrate, the 
word "ivhoa" is the generally accepted signal for a horse to 
stop when he is going ahead, and it is evident that if used 
when the horse is not moving, or for a different purpose, the 
word loses the force of its meaning, or has no significance 
whatever. But how many men cry ivhoa, whoa, when they 
merely wish their horse to go slower, stop shying, change 
from a trot to a walk, stop pulling at the halter, hold up the 
head, cease gnawing a post or the fence, stop shaking the 
head or switching the tail to relieve himself from the annoy- 
ance of troublesome flies, and a dozen other things which a 
horse does so frequently. The same word, more or less 
sharply uttered, greets the horse on nearly all occasions. 

No wonder that the best disposed horse should fail to obey 
a command which is used for so many different purposes, and 
should finally become regardless of words which thus become 
as meaningless to him as Chinese or Choctaw. 

Another foolish habit of many drivers which should be 
avoided, is that of commonly speaking to their horses in a 
loud or harsh tone of voice. For all ordinary purposes the 
voice should be rather low and mild, but clear and distinct, 
and the horse should be taught that when a command is given 
more sharply and with greater force, he is to obey with so 
much the more energy and promptness, and unless every 
word and action used in giving commands, and the degree of 
force with which they are given, all have a definite and fixed 
meaning, the horse cannot understand and obey with certainty 
and readiness. 



10 



GIVE LESSONS SHORT BUT THOROUGH. 



In training horses, too much must not be attempted at a 
time. The lessons should be short but thorough, always en- 
couraging obedience by kindness and little presents of apples, 
or something that the animal likes. Special care must be 
taken to thus caress and reward a sensitive, high spirited and 
courageous horse, particularly after he has resisted control, 
and hQ&o. forced to yield. 



Extremes of Intelligence and Disposition. 

In studying animal nature, Ave find a general law that the 
larger and more active the brain, the more intelligence and 
docility is exhibited; and the smaller and more sluggish the 

brain, the less intelligence is 
possessed, and the more de- 
termined and active the 
resistance to control. Con- 
sequently we have great 
extremes and all interme- 
diate modifications of dispo- 
sition and character, accord- 
ing to the quality and 
amount of brain and the 
different predominating fac- 
ulties. Each type of char- 
acter is in harmony with 
this law, in the wild and 
more savage of the lower 
animals, as well as those of 
the domestic classes. We not 
unfrequently find marked extremes of disposition, even in the 
same family. For instance, one dog is a model of docility and 
obedience, while another is surly, cross and savage. In 
almost every herd of farm animals will be found one more 
wild or vicious than the others. One cow, one ox or mule is 
more timid, or ugly, or difficult and dangerous to manage than 
the rest ; and by a similar law we find these various disposi- 
tions accompanied by greater or less degrees of vitality, — it 
being usually the case that those naturally wild and vicious 
animals are much more hardy and enduring than others. 

The Horse affords perhaps the best illustration of the 
diversity of these characteristics. We find that in proportion 




Intelligent and Gentle. 



EXTREMES OF INTELLIGENCE AND DISPOSITION. 



11 




as there is predom- 
inance of the lower 
and more savage 
characteristics o f 
animal nature, 
there is stubborn- 
ness of character 
and power of en- 
durance ; and t o 
the degree that 
animal intelligence 
and fine sensibility 
are in excess of the 
coarse and stub- 
born traits, there 
will be tractable- 
ness and docility— DuU and Treacherous, 

though perhaps the hardiness and vitality may be somewhat 
less, yet this is not necessarily the case. 

The lama, having but little of this coarse nature, will not 

bear abuse, but will 
lie down discour- 
aged and die, if 
overloaded and not 
relieved. The cam- 
el, of a less sensi- 
tive type, will toil 
patiently and nobly 
under the heaviest 
burdens, meekly 
submitting to al- 
most any extreme 
of abuse. The ass, 
mule and mustang, 
having a larger 

„ ™. , , share of the COm- 

Sensitrve and Flighty. . .. ,. 

bative disposition, 

are more obstinate and willful, and are usually more difficult 
to manage. 

Where there is great predisposition to resistance, more 
vitality and endurance may be anticipated, but proportion- 
ably more skill and judgment will be necessary to secure 
obedience and docility. This is also true with regard to other 




12 



TEEAT ACCORDING TO DISPOSITION. 



animals. Those of a nervous temperament, with but little of 
the coarse nature, do not need the whip, and will most read- 
ily yield obedience to kind and gentle treatment, while those 
of high courage and strong will, resist control with greater 
violence and more obstinate energy. The slow, cold-blooded, 
dull horse, may work kind and gentle from the first time he is 
harnessed, while the quick, warm-blooded, sensitive horse, is 
usually nervous and excitable, and must be " worked in " 
gradually, and managed with more skill and patience to in- 
sure perfect submission to the restraint of harness and wagon. 
This class of horses, more frequently found among thorough- 
breds, when fully aroused or greatly excited by fear, are ter- 
ribly reckless and desperate in their resistance, and require 
not only very careful, but very thorough treatment, and must 
be made to yield prompt obedience to the control of the bit 
and every word of command. 

Indications of Character. 




Fiery— Needs watching. 

Character, in its general features, is indicated by certain 
peculiarities. The size, color, coat, shape and size of head, 
eye and ear, expression of countenance and density of texture, 
are each an index of greater or less significance. Size alone is 
not a certain indication of strength, but must be taken in connec- 
tion with quality of limb, form of build, and texture of muscle. 



INDICATIONS OF CHARACTER. 13 

Compact form, strong limb and heavy muscle indicate great 
strength, and combined with a fine dense texture, denotes ac- 
tivity and great endurance. A large, prominent, bold, eager, 
but mild and pleasant eye, full, broad forehead, distance short 
from eye to ear, ears short, tapering and active, indicate great 
docility and intelligence, while small, round eyes, set well 
into the head, or eyelids heavy, forehead narrow, long from 
eye to ear, ears long and flabby, or drooping, indicate a mean, 
treacherous disposition. Between these extremes there are 
almost unlimited modifications, developing new phases of 
character, which call for more or less different treatment in 
the efforts at training or subjection. To the practiced eye, 
the exact type of temperament or disposition becomes at 
once perceptible from these and other peculiarities in the ex- 
pression of countenance, density of texture, shape of head, 
size, color and expression of eye, and general appearance. 



Rules and Care in Breeding. 

There are many remote causes which greatly affect the 
character of the horse that deserve the serious consideration 
of the intelligent horseman, and without a knowledge of 
which there cannot be a correct understanding of the subject, 
and every effort at breeding must be more or less uncertain, 
and perhaps unsatisfactory in its results. However appa- 
rently trifling first causes may appear in themselves, it is cer- 
tain that they often lead to consequences which the most 
careful and thorough subsequent treatment will ' partially or 
wholly fail to overcome. It is an inviolate law of nature that 
" like produces like," and it is therefore evident that to raise 
good horses good horses must be bred from. This is not only 
true in regard to size, form, soundness and quality of texture, 
but in disposition. As much care should be taken in select- 
ing horses for good disposition as for size, speed, form and 
strong eonstitution. In studying causes which positively 
affect the character and disposition, if we would get at the 
source we must go back to the time the parents were brought 
together, and ascertain the condition of their nervous systems, 
for it is undoubtedly true that the condition of the sire or dam 
at the time of connection, and the condition in which the 
mare is kept, and her treatment during gestation, have a pow- 
erful influence upon the character of the colt. If a stallion of 



14 CARE IN BREEDING. 

the most gentle character is greatly irritated and angry 
when used to the mare, so marked is the effect of the excite- 
ment, that the colt is almost sure to prove of a bad, irritable, 
temper. If the mare is subjected to a sudden and extreme 
shock of fear while in foal, the colt is very liable to prove 
nervous, irritable and unreliable in character. 



Bad Effects of Friglit. 

In other ways, marked extremes of viciousness, approaching 
sometimes almost to insanity, may be produced by more direct 
and perceptible causes. To illustrate this, I will refer to one 
out of many instances which have come under my own obser- 
vation. A three years old colt, which was noted for gentle- 
ness, it having been raised a pet, was allowed to run at large 
and trespassed upon a neighbor's premises. Dogs, chasing and 
shouting, had lost all influence in keeping the colt away, so, 
in a spirit of vexation, the boys tied a tin pan to the colt's 
tail and then set the dogs after it. At first the colt did not 
seem to notice the pan, but when pressed by the dogs, and 
the pan began to rattle and pound against his heels, alarm 
was excited. The most frantic efforts to get away from the 
terrible object were resorted to, by kicking and running, until 
the colt was exhausted, and so powerful was the effect upon 
the nervous system, that ever after the stirring of anything 
near or touching the hind parts, would excite the greatest 
fear and most reckless kicking. The fear thus produced 
became involuntary; the nervous system was deranged, and 
the colt spoiled. No matter what may be the cause of the 
excitement, if greatly frightened, the effect upon the nervous 
system is always the same, and the greatest care should be 
taken to guard against causes of fright or unusual excitement, 
especially in colts. The most careless observer cannot fail to 
have noticed that when horses which are afraid of a robe, an 
umbrella, atop wagon, the cars, or anything else, are. at some 
time suddenly frightened by the object, break loose and get 
away, the impression of fear becomes so strong, that that 
object is ever after a source of the greatest terror to them. 
Once breaking loose, running away and kickiDg, or in any 
way successfully resisting control, under such circumstances, 
leads to the habit becoming fixed. It is the brain by which 
the animal understands and is influenced, and it is the effect 
produced directly or indirectly upon the brain, by rousing the 



COUNTERACTING EFFECTS OF FRIGHT. 15 

fears ami passions, which excites resistance. The efforts 
should therefore be so applied as to weaken or neutralize that 
effect by diverting the attention and winning the action of 
the mind in an opposite direction. This end you have seen, 
can most easily be attained by my treatment, and with pru- 
dence and careful management the worst horses can usually 
be reformed by my system in a short time. 

Whipping Dangerous, 

I would caution those who train or use horses upon another 
point, viz. : that of exciting the ill will of the animal. Many 
think they are doing finely, and are proud of their .success in 
horse training by means of severe whipping, or otherwise 
rousing and stimulating the passions, and then, from necessity, 
crushing the will, through which the resistance is prompted. 
No mistake can be greater than this, and there is nothing that 
so fully exhibits the ability, judgment and skill of the real 
horseman, as the care and tact displayed in winning, instead 
of repelling the action of the mind. Although it may be 
necessary to use the whip sometimes, it should always be 
applied judiciously, and great care should be taken not to 
rouse the passions, or excite the will to obstinacy. The 
legitimate and proper use of the whip is calculated to operate 
upon the sense of fear almost entirely. The affections and 
better nature must be appealed to in training a horse, as well 
as in training a child. A reproof given may be intended for 
the good of the child, but, if only the passions are excited, 
the effect is depraving and injurious. This is a vital prin- 
ciple, and can be disregarded in the management of sensitive, 
courageous horses, only at the imminent risk of spoiling 
them. I have known many horses of a naturally gentle 
character, to be spoiled by being whipped once ; and one 
horse that was made vicious by being struck with a whip 
once, while standing in his stall. 

I have referred to these instances to show the danger of 
rough treatment, and the effects which may be easily produced 
by ill usage, especially with fine blooded horses and those of a 
highly nervous temperament. Many other cases might be 
cited, as such are by no means uncommon. Sensitive horses 
should never be left after. they have been excited by the whip 
or other means, until calmed down by rubbing or patting the 
head and neck, and giving apples, sugar, or something of 



16 CAUTION IN WHIPPING. 

which the animal is fond. Remember the whip must be used 
with great care, or it is liable to do mischief, and may cause 
irreparable injury. 

Courage in Handling Horses. 

Many men boast that they "are not afraid of any living 
horse," &c. To a really experienced horseman such asser- 
tions betray ignorance and inexperience. Very many of the 
most lamentable accidents that occur with horses are the 
result of this foolhardy imprudence. It is almost impossible 
to convince a man who has never been run away with, that a 
horse could run away while he held the reins, or that he can- 
not drive a kicker safely by any care that can be used ; and 
when such men are run away with, or have a horse kick the 
wagon to pieces and get away, they will declare that they can 
drive and manage any horse but that one. 

Any horse that has learned to resist the bit successfully, 
cannot be held or safely controlled by the reins when under 
great excitement, and it is idle for any man to pretend that it 
can be done. I have found hundreds of horses which would 
run away every time they were driven, regardless of the most 
severe bits, though pulled upon by several men. I have seen 
horses that, on a walk, would pull two and even four men, by 
the reins, though tugging and pulling as they pleased. Of 
course it is the most senseless imprudence to talk of driving 
and holding such horses, when there is almost certainty of 
being unable to retain control should the animal become 
excited. 

While it is highly important to appear fearless and confi- 
dent when approaching and handling horses, it is not to be 
assumed that a horse will not bite, strike or kick, because 
courage is shown. An Irishman, who supposed a horse 
would not attack or injure him if he would stand still and 
show no fear, walked into the enclosure of a vicious stallion. 
The horse rushed upon him, bit and struck him down, and it 
was with the greatest difficulty that he was rescued, even at 
the cost of a broken arm, three ribs and a leg, with serious 
internal injuries. 

I once encountered a terribly vicious mare, and having 
purposely been kept in ignorance of her bad character, I went 
into the yard without sufficient precaution, and had to jump 
for my life to get away from her. When she rushed for me 



SHOULD BE COURAGEOUS, BUT NOT RECKLESS- 17 

I instantly saw that escape was my only alternative, and 
sprang head foremost over the high enclosure. It was a 
trick to defeat me, as all my would he pupils laughed, and for 
the first time I discovered that they were all over head and 
out of all possible danger. This was one of the most despe- 
rate and dangerous specimens of the horse that I ever saw. 
She would run at a man with all the ferocity of a mad clog, 
and would no doubt have bit and trampled me under foot in 
a moment, could she have got hold of me. But in thirty 
minutes I made her perfectly gentle, and safe for any one to 
approach and handle. 

The horse always reveals his intentions by the action of 
his ears and expression of his eye, as plainly as could be done 
in words. In approaching a horse, the notice should be care- 
fully directed to the head for an understanding of the inten- 
tions. If danger is discernible, and is not too imminent, 
stand still. It will not do to show, by the expression of the 
features or faltering of the voice, that fear is felt. When a 
bad horse must be encountered, especially if a stallion, the 
eye must be kept steadily on that of the horse, and the will 
must be inflexible. Adroitness and firmness in diverting the 
attention, will hold some horses of a dangerous character in 
check, when the least exhibition of weakness or fear would 
precipitate a calamity. Some horses, stallions in particular, 
seem to read the feelings of a groom, or any one handling 
them, as plainly as could a man, and any indication of timidity 
will encourage them to resistance. Whatever the feelings or 
apprehension of danger, there must be no evidence of fear 
exposed in the language or actions. There is a peculiar 
acuteness of perception acquired by long experience and obser- 
vation, that cannot be explained, but which enables one at a 
glance to see how far it is safe to approach and handle a horse 
of a dangerous character. Indeed, I do not know of any pro- 
fession or calling which requires more acuteness of perception, 
or firmness and judgment, in directing and controlling the efforts, 
than that of the professional horseman. Discretion is some- 
times the better part of valor, and the courage shown should 
always be according to circumstances. No one should reck- 
lessly expose himself to the fury of a vicious horse, and when 
necessary to handle such, it should be done with the greatest 
caution and judgment, always taking care to first confine the 
horse in some way, until the bridle or other means of control 



18 ADAPTING EFFORTS TO CIRCUMSTANCES. 

can be securely attached. It is well, perhaps, to remind in 
this connection, that the subjection and successful reformation 
of some horses will often call for much resource of prudence 
and skill. Horses having small, round eyes, set well into the 
head, or heavy eyelids, gray or sorrel color, denote the hard- 
est cases. They will sometimes show the obstinate reck- 
lessness of a bull dog. Young horses, too, are often the most 
trying. Do not be discouraged because such are obstinately 
persistent. My principles of subjection will enable, with 
anything like ordinary effort, absolute control of any horses. 
First, if you anticipate the animal to be plucky and deter- 
mined, work quick, until there is submission, putting through 
the regular routine of subjection. When you have cases of 
this kind, if possible make your point before the horse can 
become warmed up to any considerable degree, as greatly 
heating the blood blunts the sensibilities and stimulates resist- 
ance to an extraordinary degree, and instead of the subject 
working in easily and gently when attempted to be driven in 
harness, he will be more likely to resist restraint. Skill and 
tact in this will add very much to your success in working 
the horse into good character. The second method of subjec- 
tion is your principal reliance, in extreme cases. If necessary, 
disabling in driving, by the foot trap, is often useful. After 
making your point, hold it by driving and handling until the 
animal is entirely cool and gentle. The impression should be 
fixed by rewarding liberally with sugar and salt, &c, when 
there is submission. Remember the character is not always 
set and made reliable by the animal being made to yield, and 
drive gently once or twice. Handle cautiously for a few 
times, expecting resistance, and ready to combat it until the 
character is made reliable. This prudence is the more neces- 
sary if the animal is valuable. 

Reference to the different heads in another part of this 
book will give details for the proper management of different 
peculiarities of disposition and habit. In studying the laws 
of equine subjection and education, many striking truths are 
forced upon the mind. The wisdom displayed by the Creator 
in adapting the different domestic animals to the wants of 
man, the ease with which they can be subdued and controlled, 
when subjected to proper and reasonable treatment, is truly 
wonderful, and the inevitable consequences of every act of 
imprudence committed in their management is strikingly clear 
and positive, reminding us that it is not only our duty, but 



CORRECTING OUR ERRORS. 19 

economy and wisdom in us to correct the errors of impru- 
dence and ignorance which have been so long and so exten- 
sively practiced by the masses. This duty addresses itself 
at once to the reason and all the higher faculties of the mind, 
and, in its true sense, is in every way inspiring to a higher 
feeling of responsibility and elevation of character. 



ipp" If the owner wishes, he is at liberty to read the foregoing part of this 
work to others, it not being in any way an infringement upon the secrecy 
imposed. 



TRAINING THE WILD COLT. 



The opposition and resistance of a colt is natural, and is 
induced by fear and ignorance of what is required of him. 
Colts of a highly sensitive or positive nature will often resist 
being handled or controlled, with the most reckless perversity. 
When much obstinacy is anticipated or shown, the first thing 
to be accomplished is to overcome such sensibility and resist- 
ance as will ensure safety to the operator in handling the 
animal as he desires. If this point be thoroughly made, the 
colt will be sufficiently plastic and submissive to ensure 
safety in his management and certainty of control. To pro- 
duce such results, much prudence and skill is often necessary, 
and the reader must bear in mind that his success in training 
and educating horses will depend upon the discrimination and 
judgment with which his efforts are adapted in applying my 
Theory of Management. 

If possible, the operator should have a good room or train- 
ing yard, about twenty-five or thirty feet square, or even 
larger. See that all causes of injury are removed, and get the 
colt into this enclosure very quietly; if he is wild and nervous, 
see that no hens, dogs, etc., are in the room. Say to your 
friends, it is necessary to your success, and is a condition of 
your instruction, that you must be alone. 

Of course the colt must first be haltered. If not very wild, 
this will not be difficult to do. But if very wild or vicious, 
this may be difficult and perhaps dangerous, and you should 
always carefully guard against injury to yourself as well as 
your horse, and at the same time you may accomplish your 
object just as surely, if not as easily. Take a light pole ten 
or twelve feet in length, or as much longer as you can use to 
advantage, if the colt is very wild or dangerous, and drive two 
nails into it, about eight inches apart, the first about an inch 
from the end, with the heads bent a little outward from each 



TRAINING THE COLT. 



21 



other. Take a common rope halter with a running noose, 
pull the part which slips through [the noose back about two 
feet, and hang the part that goes over the head upon the nails 
on the end of your pole nicely, keeping hold of the hitching 
part, which must be as long as your pole. Your halter is now 
so spread and hung upon the 'stick as to be easily put on to 
the head. If the colt is not excited or frightened, as you 
extend the halter towards him he will reach out his nose to 
smell and examine it, and while he is gratifying his curiosity 
in this way, you can bring the slack part under his jaw and 
raise the pole high enough to bring the halter over and back 
of the ears, when, by turning the stick half way round, the 
halter will drop from it upon the head. This will frighten the 
colt a little and cause him to run from you, but this will only 
cause the slack part passing back of the jaw to be pulled up, 
and the halter will be securely adjusted. 




Haltering the Colt. 

Being haltered, the colt must now be taught to submit to 
its restraints and yield to control. Take a position at the side 
of the colt, on a line with his shoulder, but at some distance, 
and give a quick, strong pull towards you, instantly letting 
loose on the halter until you get the same position again. You 
have the greatest advantage from this position, and by 
adroitly following it, never attempting to pull when he runs 
back or from you, the colt will soon learn to yield to the 
slightest pull in that direction, and will follow your every 



22 TEACHING THE COLT TO LEAD. 

movement on that side without pulling scarcely at all. Should 
you pull slow and steady, he will learn to resist and pull 
against you, and might throw himself down ; but this you will 
avoid by giving a quick pull, bringing him towards you, and 
letting loose instantly. As soon as he will yield and come to 
you promptly on one side, get on the other side and repeat 
the lesson in the same manner, until the colt will follow you 
readily and quickly on either side without pulling. Be careful 
not to pull ahead until there is prompt submission sidewise. 
You can then gradually pull a little more on a line with the 
body until the colt will come to you promptly in any direction, 
and yield readily to the slightest pull upon the halter. If the 
colt is intelligent, and of a quick, tractable disposition, he will 
soon learn this lesson thoroughly; but if very young, or of a 
slow, sulky disposition, great resistance is likely to be shown. 
If the resistance is very obstinate or reckless in character, you 
must resort at once to a thorough course of subjection, which 
will soon compel obedience. This you have been taught how 
to do; and here I will only say that in most cases with colts, 
a short course by the second method is sufficient, always being 
careful not to tie too short. With older horses, and with 
colts of certain dispositions, the first method is usually very 
effective. 

Whenever there is submission you should encourage and 
fix it by appealing at once to the affections. Rub the head, 
pat the neck and scratch the mane and tail until all excite- 
ment and irritation subside. The eye will now be mild in 
expression, and there is an apparent indifference to being 
handled. A coarse, harsh or loud voice is terribly irritating 
to a sensitive or spirited horse or colt, and must by all means 
be held in check. Speak in a gentle and natural tone, and let 
your voice be softened by kind expression, for it will do much 
toward securing the confidence of the animal and repressing 
his fear. With some colts it will be necessary to repeat the 
lesson in leading two or three times, to fix the point of prompt 
obedience. In every case the lesson should be made very 
thorough. 



When the colt will lead kindly and promptly, he may next 
be taught to stand hitched. To prevent the possibility of his 
learning to pull at the halter, take a piece of strong cord, 
about a third of an inch in diameter, sufficiently long when 



TEAINING THE COLT. 23 

doubled to be a little shorter than the halter when hitched, 
and tie it in the following manner : Find the middle and put 
it under the tail ; bring both ends forward, cross and twist 
them three or four times over on the back, do the same in 
front of the breast, pass them through the ring of the halter 




Hitching. 

and tie to the manger or post. Hitch in this way until the 
colt refuses to pull back, even if frightened a little, and after 
two or three days the halter can be depended upon with 
safety. 



Is the next step in educating the colt, and implies not only 
teaching the colt to submit to the restraint and control of the 
bit, but giving as much style to the carriage of the head and 
neck as the form and temper of the animal will bear. If the 
bitting is imperfectly done, the horse may acquire habits of 
resisting the bit, such as lugging upon the check, pulling too 
hard on the bit, pulling on one rein, refusing to back, etc. To 
do this thoroughly and properly may seem to be a difficult 
task, but it is a simple matter and very easily accomplished. 
The colt's mouth should first become accustomed to the bit. 
To do this, put on a common bridle with a smooth snaffle bit, 
without reins, and allow him to go as he pleases, in a yard or 
field, for half an hour or more, which may be repeated once or 
twice. Next put on surcingle with check and side reins, 
buckling the reins at first so long as to bring but little 
restraint upon the mouth. After being on thirty or forty 



24 



TRAINING THE COLT. 



minutes, remove, and at each repetition buckle the reins a 
little shorter, until the desired style of carriage is secured. 
The colt should have at least one lesson each day, but never 
more than two, as it is better to proceed slowly and thoroughly. 




Bitting the Colt. 

It seems needless to introduce] details of a bitting harness. 
Any simple construction of the ordinary kind will answer 
very well, and the style is so generally understood that a 
description here is unnecessary. The object being to bring 
such restraint upon the bit that the head will be held up and 
back most naturally and easily, without giving freedom to the 
head except in the direction of the reins. Care should be 
taken to have the throat latch loose enough to not press upon 
the throat when the colt is checked up, and the gag-runners 
should be well up near the ears. Care must be taken not to 
bring too much restraint upon the bit by buckling the reins 
too short at first, as it is liable to excite such resistance that 
the colt will rear up and fall over backwards, which would be 
almost certain to result in death. Colts should not be checked 
up too long at a time, as it becomes tiresome, and the colt 
will learn to rest his head upon the bit and thus form the very 
disagreeable habit of lugging. If, however, the colt should 
fight the restraint of the bit or check, it should be left on till 



HARNESSING THE COLT. 25 

the fit exhausts itself and he shows a disposition to submit to 
its restraint. 

The hitting bridle should not be kept on very long at a 
time. Short lessons at first, and gradually longer as the 
mouth becomes hardened by the bit and the colt will bear it 
without fatigue, is the proper course for bitting in this manner. 
But simply subjecting the mouth to this course of discipline 
does not teach submission to the restraint of the bit, nor does 
it cause the horse to throw his head up and back when the 
reins are pulled upon, as he should, or at least to only a 
limited extent. Hence it is that many horses acquire a dispo- 
sition to lug against the bit, throw the head down on the 
breast, pull sidewise, throw the head forward, or some other 
peculiar form of resistance in consequence of this imperfect 
mode of bitting. All these tendencies I easily overcome by 
the following simple treatment : 

After the usual course of bitting is completed, or has been 
in progress several days or a week, take a piece of cord 
about eight or ten feet in length, of the common sash or 
clothes line size, as strong and pliable as you can find. Tie 
a large hard knot in one end, and about twenty inches from 
this knot make another tie, passing the knot end around the 
neck so it will just fit the neck forward of the shoulder. Pass 
the other end of the cord through both rings of the bit, back of 
the jaw and back through the loop around the neck, and draw 
up the slack. Now stand in front of the head, holding the 
cord tightly with both hands ; give a quick, short pull down- 
wards, which will cause the head to be thrown up and back. 
Repeat this little jerking, downward pull, until the head is 
given up and back freely at the slightest pull. Now, when 
the reins are attached to the bit and pulled upon, the restraint 
is precisely the same as before ; and after repeating this lesson 
a few times, the head will be freely submitted to the control of 
the bit, and a beautiful carriage of the head secured, even 
without a check. 

Harnessing. 

The harness may now be put on, and the next step will be 
to teach the colt to be guided, right or left, and stopped at 
pleasure. No attempt should be made to teach the colt to 
hack, until he has learned to drive well to wagon ; for if first 
taught to back, there is danger that he will acquire the habit 
of running back when confused or frightened. 
2 



26 DRIVING THE COLT. 

If the colt is sensitive, and you wish to be very thorough, 
after putting on the harness carefully, you may tie up the 
tugs and let him run about the yard for half an hour. Now 
put on the reins and gradually teach him to go ahead, turn 
right or left, or stop, as you please, by the restraint of the bit. 
Too much must not be expected of a colt at once, and the 
trainer should always be careful not to excite the animal, or to 
get excited himself. 

Hitching to Wagon Poles. 

If the colt is at all uncertain, it will be policy to work slowly 
and carefully, as one mismove now may cause serious mischief, 
by the colt becoming nervous and unmanageable, and, should 
he be able to resist restraint, will easily cause a loss, by damage 
to wagon, of from five to fifty dollars. To guard against this, 
get three slender poles, two of them about twelve feet 
long each, the third about seven feet in length. Lay down 
the poles in the form of shafts, the front ends about twenty 
inches apart, the back ends about six feet apart. Lay the 
short piece across about six feet six inches from the forward 
ends, and tie on with pieces of cord. Hitch the colt into 
these poles, attaching the tugs to the cross pieces by tying 
with small cord, and drive the colt around until there is 
perfect submission to them. Driving to poles is an advanta- 
geous step, for two reasons : they cause less noise and excite- 
ment, and consequently are less likely to cause resistance ; and 
should the horse kick, no damage can result — whereas, one 
kick against a buggy would be likely to cause serious damage 
and loss. 

Before attempting to drive a colt to the wagon or shafts, 
all danger of resisting anything striking the heels should be 
thoroughly overcome by the course of subjection. It is 
always the safest and best method. Anything like a suitable 
cart or two-wheeled sulky can be obtained by but few, and the 
cheapness and ease of constructing poles into the form of 
shafts will enable any one, at a trifling trouble, by this 
means to easily supply that want. 

In driving to poles or shafts, the horse should be made to 
submit to touching against the hind parts in every manner 
possible, without offering resistance. When hitched, let the 
colt move off moderately, at first, gradually requiring him to 
go right and left, back against the cross piece, etc. But 
mind, do not commit the error of making young horses, when 



DRIVING TO WAGON. 27 

first trained to harness, go back too freely, as it leads to the habit 
of running back at the slightest causes of excitement in front 
of them. Great care should be taken not to drive the colt too 
much at first, and at no time sufficient to produce exhaustion. 
Neither should his strength be taxed too much by driving up 
or down hill, until he has become accustomed to the noise and 
restraint of the wagon and learned to use his strength as 
required. Let his drives be moderate at first, both in gait 
and distance ; about a mile or two on a walk first, gradually 
increasing the distance as he will bear without fatigue. After 
he will go nicely on a walk, let him trot a little, gradually 
letting him out faster and a little further, as nice, smooth 
pieces of road give opportunity; but be very particular to 
restrict these little outbursts of speed at first to the limits of a 
few rods, and never allow the colt to become exhausted. Let 
him dash out a short distance, then gradually slacken to a 
walk, speaking kindly and encouragingly as you would if 
talking to a boy. After a while, let him out again, pushing, 
perhaps, a little faster and further, being careful not to crowd 
him to breaking. It must not be expected because your colt 
is perhaps a good mover, that he will be a fast trotter. But 
if he is a really good stepper, it is so much the more necessary 
for you to use judgment and prudence in his training. There 
is usually too much anxiety to try a colt's speed and bottom, 
and he is often pushed, overdone, and spoiled perhaps, before 
his powers are half developed. 

A colt must not be crowded too much in educating to 
harness. It is evident that he cannot be expected to submit 
quietly to the irritation and excitement of harness and wagon, 
or drive quietly like an old horse, without experience. He 
must grow into familiarity with these things from usage and 
contact with them. The trainer must be particularly careful 
in the outset to overcome all fear from things touching the 
hind legs and parts of the body. This lesson must be very 
thorough, and as each progressive step in educating the colt 
is attempted, this point must not be lost sight of; and if each 
successive point is clearly and thoroughly accomplished, 
patient, careful labor will be rewarded in the possession of a 
kind, gentle, trusty and well-behaved animal, whose services 
will always afford pleasure to his owner and driver. 



28 TRAINING THE COLT. 



Double Driving. 



It is generally the custom to drive the colt at first in 
harness by the side of a gentle horse accustomed to harness. 
When this is to be done, the colt should be put on the off 
side, and to guard against danger, a short strap, with a ring 
on if, should be put around the fore foot, below the fetlock. 
Fasten the end of a piece of rope or strap about eight or ten 
feet long to the ring. Pass the other end over the belly-band 
of the harness and back to the wagon. The strap is to be held 
with the reins to insure the utmost control, should the colt 
become frightened and attempt to break away or kick. The 
whip should be held over the old horse, to keep him up to 
the movements of the colt in starting, but the gait should 
be kept moderate. 

In breaking the colt to drive double, after driving well on 
the off side, he should be reversed to the near side, there 
being less danger of becoming frightened from getting into or 
out of the wagon, or of seeing things while being passed to or 
from the wagon, by being more from view on the off side. To 
lessen the probabilities of fear and resistance, the off side is 
preferable at first. The limited understanding of the horse 
seems to require that the same impressions and understanding 
should be given of the character and appearance of things 
forced to his attention on both sides. If not, when driven 
u alone, or on the near side, he may become suddenly fright- 
ened by the moving of a robe, umbrella, the rustling of a 
lady's dress, etc., from that side. (See Causes of Fear.) 

Let the driving be moderate, and the load light, and, by 
all means, if the colt is of a sensitive or nervous temperament, 
the greatest mildness must be observed. Loud "yelling" or 
cracking of the whip should not be permitted. A little im- 
prudence of this kind is often the cause of very serious mis- 
chief with timid, young horses. 



After learning to drive well, teach the idea of backing by 
pulling on the reins steadily, and saying "back." If there is 
resistance give a quick, sharp, raking pull, which will move 
the colt by the pain and force of the bit backward, repeating 
until there is prompt obedience. If there is much resistance 
put on breaking bit, which will soon secure submission. 



TRAINING THE COLT. 2 ( J 

Riding. 

If the colt is not of a very bad character there will he no 
resistance to being rode after the first lesson of subjection. If 
there is, attach a short strap or a piece of rope to the off fore 
foot, throwing the other end over the back. Take a short 
■hold of this strap with the right hand, while the left grasps 
the near rein of the bridle firmly. As the head is pulled 
around, the horse is made to step sidewise, and the instant 
the foot is relaxed it is held up by the restraint of the right 
hand on the strap, which is instantly drawn upon. The colt 
is now on three legs, and un- 
able to resist. Jump lightly 
on the back, press the feet 
against the belly and flanks. 
As there is submission release 
the foot, taking a firm hold of 
the reins, which should be 
held short. Move the colt 
forward, and as there is an 
indication of resistance pull 
upon the strap and reins, 
which will disable and dis- Eidin s- 

concert the horse from further opposition to being rode. If the 
colt will not move forward, request an assistant to lead him 
by the head for a short time. So long as there is any indi- 
cation of resistance, keep on the strap. One thorough lesson 
is usually sufficient, though some colts may require a repeti- 
tion of the lesson. 

When it is desired to mount, let the left hand rest lightly 
on the mane, a little forward of the withers, holding the reins 
between the thumb and fingers. Throw the right hand 
lightly on the back, the body close to the horse. Now 
spring lightly upward and forward. The instant of doing so, 
let the right hand glide forward until the elbow strikes the 
back bone, when the weight of the body is to be instantly 
balanced upon the right arm, which will enable sufficient 
strength to make the spring continuous, and the body is 
easily brought into a sitting posture. This is a slight under- 
taking, and a little practice will give the ability to mount the 
highest horses with apparently wonderful ease. To mount 
on a saddle, stand by the side, a little back of the stirrup, the 
. face exactly towards the horse's head. Take a short hold of 




30 TRAINING THE COLT. 

the reins between the lingers, grasping into the mane at the 
same time, put the left foot into the stirrup, throw the right 
hand over the saddle and press it against the off side, throw- 
ing the weight of the body on the left foot, and you can lift 
yourself into the saddle easily. 

Handling the Feet. 

If the colt is of an ordinary good disposition this can be 
done without resorting to special means. Stand well up to 
the shoulder, put the left hand on the shoulder, pressing 
forward gently, which will relax the muscles controlling the 
leg, with the right hand, instantly grasp the foot below the 
fetlock and lift it up, removing the left hand and bring under 
the foot to aid the right hand, or wholly liberating the right 
hand. To handle the hind feet, let the right hand glide 
gently from the shoulders back to the hip. At the instant it 
passes the point of the hip, bring the left forward upon the 
hip. While doing this, the right hand is being glided down 
the leg gently, until it strikes the fetlock, when the left hand 
is pressed firmly against the body at the point stated, which 
will relax the limb, as before, and the foot is easily brought 
up by the right. At the instant of raising with the right, 
the left is lowered and passed down the limb on the back part 
of the fetlock. Or the foot can be raised and lowered a few 
times with the right hand, while the left balances the body 
by pressing against the hip until there is perfect submission. 

If there is resistance, take up the fore foot, request an 
assistant to hold it up for you, while he at the same time 
holds the colt by the halter or bridle. Tie the end of a rope 
or strap around the hind foot, above the fetlock, at the instant 
of doing which let the hand glide along to the opposite part, 
until six or eight feet from the foot. At the same time request 
the forward foot to be let loose, the assistant holding by the 
halter. Now pull upon the strap, which will bring the foot 
forward, and at the instant of attempting to kick, let go, and 
so repeat until the foot is submitted to the restraint of strap. 
Then slip behind and pull the foot back, and as before yield- 
ing at each effort to kick, let go, until the foot is submitted 
freely. Now take the foot from the control of the strap to 
the hand and handle gently. 

If there is very determined resistance, tie the end of your 
long strap around the neck, near the shoulders, pass the other 



HANDLING THE FEET. 31 

end back between the fore legs, around the hind foot, but 
under the strap around the neck and draw up on it, at the 
same time holding him by the bridle or halter. The colt may 
be frightened and jump to get clear of the restraint. Should 
he act very much frightened, slack up on the strap until the 
foot is almost back to its natural position. Then as he will 
bear, again pull a little shorter, at the same time pulling him 
round in a circle by the head, until he ceases struggling to get 
the foot loose. You may now pull the foot farther forward, 
and hold it as before, until he will stand quietly. Now step 
back a little and pass the hand down the hind leg. Slap the 
hand upon the leg a little until there is no resistance, then 
take it in the hands. If there is no resistance, undo the end 
of the strap and allow the foot a little more freedom ; at the 
same time while holding the foot by the strap, pass the hand 
from the hip down the leg quietly, rubbing and caressing 
until able to take it in the hands. 

Handle the opposite legs in the same manner, until there is 
perfect submission. There is a natural tendency to do nothing 
more as soon as the feet can be handled, and if there is trouble 
in shoeing afterwards, it is not assigned to the real cause. 
It must be borne in mind, that in all cases to insure perfect 
submission, the feet should be repeatedly handled in the stable 
or wherever kept, until there is no fear or resistance mani- 
fested. This end may not always be accomplished by handling 
once. The character of the colt is sometimes so sensitive and 
positive that as much depends upon handling a few times 
gently after forcing submission, as in the treatment that may 
be necessary at first. 



Directly or indirectly, is the principal cause of danger and 
resistance in horses, and to successfully educate young horses 
requires that there should be perpetual precaution in prevent- 
ing such excitement from any cause as would induce fear 
of any object or sound. The horse's mind, or nervous system 
is so liable to be thrown out of balance by sudden causes of 
great fear, that very much of their successful management 
must depend upon the tact and judgment in preventing 
such consequences. One of the most remarkable features of 
this peculiarity, too, is the persistence there is in resisting the 
object or cause exciting a sense of danger. Thus a robe, 



32 OVERCOMING FEAB. 

umbrella, or other object once exciting an apprehension of 
danger, is likely to become a source of the greatest terror. 
When there is the least appearance of an excitable imagina- 
tion, the most positive sense of control should be fixed upon 
the understanding, so as to lessen the tendency, and at the 
same time give power to force obedience to the extreme neces- 
sary. The great difficulty in the management of horses pre- 
disposed to sensitiveness, or those becoming afraid of some 
object or causes with which their use requires contact, is want 
of sufficient power to coerce. I would not imply that gentle- 
ness is not an important essential; but it must not be to the 
mind of the horse the actuating motive, while the fear of dis- 
obedience must be so fixed upon the mind, that the disposition 
to resist control is neutralized. This is the point to make 
first, if possible. (Which is now seen to be easily done.) 
Then gently and carefully bring to the understanding a clear 
conviction of the harmless character of the object or sound, 
whatever it is. If the colt is wild and sensitive, the first step 
to be taken is to give him a thorough course of subjection. If 
the habit is very bad, it becomes absolutely necessary to do so. 

There is in some colts a natural predisposition to extreme 
sensibility and fear of the most ordinary causes of irritation. 
A small brain, denoted by a narrow forehead, or a clear, 
sharp, open, restless eye, indicates this character. 

But we see, too, that colts of the very best disposition are 
easily spoiled by ignorant, imprudent treatment. 

It is very remarkable, also, that many colts of the most sen- 
sitive and excitable character, by one or two lessons of careful, 
thorough treatment, become as tractable and obedient as old, 
gentle horses. I could refer to very many interesting cases in 
proof of this. One of the most marked in my recent experience, 
(Oct., 1868,) to which I will refer, was a six year old horse, 
owned by A. Smawley, of Petroleum Centre, Pa. This horse 
was of so remarkably wild and desperate a character that he 
was known by the name of " Wild Pete." He would scringe 
and jump at the least touch or appearance of anything strange ; 
he would not stand to be cleaned, could not be harnessed, and 
to attempt putting him in shafts would excite the utmost des- 
peration, jumping and kicking clear of restraint at all hazards. 
He was one of the most desperate acting horses of the kind 1 
sver saw. Indeed, anything touching him behind, even a 
touch of a whip, would make him jump and kick regardless of 



OVERCOMING FEAR. 33 

consequences. Yet, after subjecting him to two or three 
energetic lessons of less than an hour each, I could drive him 
to my buggy with perfect safety, and he could not be made to 
kick or resist control. So perfectly docile did he become, that 
he was let for driving in the livery, and has proved a very 
superior and safe carriage horse. As a rule, however, constitu- 
tionally timid horses yield slowly, and require careful as well 
as thorough treatment. 

Colts of the gentlest and apparently most fearless dispo- 
sition, are often made so nervous and excitable by being once 
greatly frightened in some way, as to become of the most ner- 
vous and dangerous character, or are really insane so far as 
certain particular objects in certain positions are concerned. 
This is illustrated by the number of otherwise gentle, young 
horses that are frightened at some particular object, or cannot 
be driven in harness. When the cause is traced out it will be 
found in every instance to have been the result of being 
greatly frightened or excited in some way. Sometimes the 
most trifling causes will derange the horse in this manner. 
Even the accidental moving of a piece of white paper will 
sometimes so excite a previously docile colt, that he will after- 
wards be a flighty, unreliable animal, always on the alert to 
jump, and possibly kick at the least appearance of such an 
object. Incidents of this kind are common to the observation 
of every one in the least familiar with the peculiarities of 
equme nature. Now unless the colt is made perfectly obe- 
dient and docile, to bear handling and the restraint of harness, 
and the rattle of the wagon, this being suddenly frightened at 
some imaginary or trifling cause, is at any moment possible. 
The first object of the efforts should be to see that every step 
of progress is made so thoroughly as to preclude such a possi- 
bility, which can be easily done by making the colt familiar 
and submissive to the restraint of the bit, and fearless of the 
contact and rattle of the wagon, etc., before hitching. 

The great difficulty with most people is, they are too harsh 
and too hasty. They undertake to do, and require more 
than they have power to enforce, or than the horse is able to 
understand. 

In educating the colt, the rule should be to do and require 

only so much as he will bear and understand, by commencing 

slowly and gently repeating, and following up one advantage 

after another, to the end of inspiring entire disregard of the 

2* 



34 OVERCOMING FEAR. 

causes of excitement. The horse's principal mediums of under- 
standing are seeing and feeling with the nose. Through 
these he examines things new and strange to him. If in 
approaching the colt you reach out the hand gently, he 
will smell and feel of it with his nose. Ever}?- other means 
of understanding seems to be subordinate to this, conse- 
quently in handling the colt we should always commence at 
the nose, then gradually work back, as there is submission. 
The same care should be taken to overcome fear of being 
handled about the feet, etc. Commence at an insensible 
part and work to the sensitive. In educating to harness, the 
same prudence should be exercised by bringing the object to 
the nose, or leading the horse up to the object, and allowing 
him to feel and examine it in his own way. 

We must be satisfied with our ability to guard against and 
overcome these difficulties of fear as we can, or as circum- 
stancEs and opportunity will offer. The great point of suc- 
cess is in guarding the horse from being roused to a great 
sense of danger from any cause, and gradually, as he will 
bear, force the mind to an understanding of the innocent 
character of the object or cause of excitement. Familiarity 
with any kind of danger blunts the sensibilities, and this 
should be the object sought, after insuring the greatest possible 
control over the animal. The better to convey an under- 
standing of my meaning, I will give directions for overcoming 
fear of the most common objects, usually objectionable to 
horses, which will indicate the treatment for anything else 
not specified. 

A Robe. 

"While held under careful restraint, let the robe be brought 
up gently to the colt's nose. After smelling and feeling of it 
in his own way until satisfied, rub it gently against the head, 
neck and body, the way the hair lies, as he will bear. Then 
stand off a little and throw it across the back, over the neck 
and head, gradually stepping farther, until you can throw the 
robe upon him as you please. Repeat the lesson several times. 

An Umbrella or Parasol. 

While holding the colt by the halter or bridle, as may be 
necessary, bring the umbrella to his nose gently, rub it 
against the head, neck and body, as he will bear, spreading 



OVERCOMING FEAR. 35 

it a little, repeating the process of rubbing, and so continue 
gaining little by little, until you can raise the umbrella over 
the head, and pass it around the animal as you please, with- 
out exciting fear or resistance. 

Sound of a Gun, 

First, commence by snapping caps a short distance from 
the horse, gradually, as he will bear, approaching nearer, until 
you can snap caps while the gun is resting upon the back, 
over the head, etc. Then put in a little powder, and at each 
repetition increase the charge until you can fire off a heavy 
load without exciting fear. 

Railroad Cars* 

Let the animal see them at rest, then gradually lead or 
drive him up to them, even to smelling them with his nose. 
Now, as you have an opportunity, drive the horse around 
while they are moving, working up nearer as you can, and 
at the same time turning him around so that he can see and 
hear them from different directions. This lesson should be 
often repeated, being careful not to crowd beyond what the 
colt will easily bear, until they cease to attract his serious 
attention. 

Objects Exciting Fear "While Riding or Driving. 

Should the horse show fear of a stone or stump, or any- 
thing of the kind, he will naturally stop and stare at the 
object in an excited manner. Should the cause of fear be 
great and sudden, he may attempt to turn round and run 
away. This is to be guarded against, by sitting well forward 
on the seat, and taking a short hold of the reins, at the same 
time speaking calmly and encouragingly to the horse. Bear 
in mind the horse has a great advantage over you, that his 
excitement is liable to precipitate his whole strength against 
you at the least sense of freedom, or additional cause of 
excitement ; that once resisting control in this position, he will 
try to do so again at all hazards, under like circumstances. 

Speak encouragingly to the horse, but keep a close watch 
upon his actions. In a short time the extent of his alarm 
will not only be perceptibly lessened, but he will become 
calmer, and almost disregard the object. Then drive nearer 



36 OVERCOMING FEAR. 

as he will bear, exercising the same patience and care. At 
each effort to get nearer, the horse will become apparently as 
much frightened as at first. Keep pushing a little at a time 
in this way, as the horse will bear, until you can drive up to 
the object, or by it, and you not only leave no bad impres- 
sion upon the mind, but gradually overcome the disposition to 
become frightened. 

Sometimes a horse will dislike a wheelbarrow, baby wagon, 
turkeys, etc., but the treatment is the same. When the 
excitement is not so great as to endanger successful resist- 
ance, and the horse is disposed to "play off, or soldier," it 
may be advisable to apply the whip a little sharply, but this 
is to be avoided when it is seen the resistance is wholly 
induced by fear, and the animal is not lazy. 

Some horses while driven to carriages, will not bear the 
noise and excitement of other horses being driven up behind. 
This is principally on account of the horse's inability to see 
and understand the cause of the excitement, or it may be 
owing to the fault of the driver. Some one drives up rapidly 
behind, perhaps wishes to "go by," to prevent which the 
colt is hallooed at and whipped up to prevent such a result. 
This may be repeated a few times, and the consequence is, if 
a spirited horse, the habit is acquired of rushing ahead to 
avoid the punishment expected under such circumstances, and 
very often, too, a horse is forced into this habit by being run 
into from behind. 

Using Blinders. 

It must be remembered that the blinders in general use so 
cover up the eyes as to make it impossible for the horse to see 
things plainly side wise, or at all from behind, which tends to 
increase the fear, as we are convinced, when we see that 
to overcome the animal's fear of any object, the first and most 
obvious point is to give him an understanding of its appear- 
ance and character. Blinders are admissible only when there 
is a desire to conceal the defects of a large head, and to cause 
a naturally lazy horse to drive steadily, by preventing him 
from seeing when the whip is about to be applied. 

Must See the Object from Different Positions. 

It is one of the peculiarities of the horse to understand and 
be reconciled to an object or cause of excitement only from 
its position and circumstances as brought to his notice. This 



OVERCOMING FEAR. 37 

seems to be on account of the horse's reasoning powers being 
so limited as to be unable to retain the same understanding of 
the object beyond the position from which it is brought to 
notice. 

Every progressive change of position requires almost the 
same care and patience as that preceding. For example, if 
in teaching a horse to submit to an umbrella, if it were shown 
only from the near side, upon carrying it to the off side, would 
inspire nearly as much fear as at first from the near side, or 
there may be an aversion to some particular object, or resist- 
ance may be inspired only under certain circumstances. You 
may succeed in getting a colt gentle to be rode from the 
near side, but an attempt to mount him from the off side, 
would in all probability be resisted. 

If a horse is afraid of an umbrella while in harness, he may 
be taught to care nothing about it out of harness, but if not 
taught to feel and understand its character in harness, would 
be apt to be as much frightened at it in that position, as if he 
knew nothing about it. 

This seems to puzzle many well-meaning men, and is often 
the cause of much disappointment. 

A horse that is afraid of an umbrella, is brought forward to 
illustrate the management of such habits. In a short time the 
horse will bear the umbrella over and around him in any 
manner, without seeming to care anything about it. The 
owner is pleased with the belief that his horse is broken, when 
in harness at some future time, he raises an umbrella behind 
the animal, and is astonished to find him almost as bad as 
ever, and he naturally condemns the instructions as of no 
account ; and indeed this would seem to be correct. But when 
it is seen in the first place that it is often necessary to repeat 
the treatment, that expecting the animal to be broken of the 
habit by a single indirect lesson, only tends to defeat success. 
For without ability to control the horse, every attempt to 
force upon him the object of aversion only inspires greater 
resistance, because taught to a still greater degree to resist 
control, and a sense of freedom always tends to increase the 
animal's fear of the object. Now the efforts of the owner to 
control the horse directly in a position of so great disadvan- 
tage, may produce exactly this result, and then from an 
ignorance of the cause of failure, believes it is impossible to 
make the horse gentle. 



38 TREATMENT IN EXTREME CASES. 

The lesson must be repeated as long as may be necessary 
to the end of perfect success, or the horse once excited is 
liable to drift back to being almost as bad as at first. 

Special Remarks on Subjection. 

It must be borne in mind that horses of courage and spirit 
will resist any attempts to overcome their resistance, with the 
greatest persistency. 

If there is great strength and bottom, and the color gray or 
sorrel, you may look for a horse that will resist you at every 
point. If the eyes are small and set well into the head, or if 
the eye-brows are heavy and the expression of the eyes stolid 
and reckless like those of a mule, you will find pluck of the 
most determined type. In the management of such, push 
them as rapidly as you can, subjecting to the first and second 
methods of subjection as may be found necessary. If the 
animal is warmed up very much, your difficulty will be 
increased; and if very reckless, hold your point as well as 
you can until the system becomes cooled, when the treatment 
is to be continued, doing so much as the animal will bear 
until successful. 

It is always necessary to success to encourage obedience by 
the greatest kindness. Indeed, the most severe abuse will be 
forgotten if as soon as there is submission the animal be 
caressed and given sugar and salt, apples, or anything of 
which it is fond. In reforming character, the mind must be 
toned down by careful, gentle treatment, after the animal 
yields to the subjective course. 

As I have illustrated to you before the class, it is rarely 
ecessary to resort to extreme measures, as my simple treat 
ment is so effective as to enable the successful submission of 
even horses of a very bad character at most in an hour's time. 
Remember, too, that by the almost absolute control given 
by my system, you could easily, if imprudent, do harm. I 
have not only before the class, but in other portions of this 
book, tried to impress upon the mind the bad consequences of 
thoughtless force. 

If an ignorant, coarse-tempered man were to be given the 
use of a finely constructed but powerful machine, how soon 
might he get it out of order and injure it for want of a little 
patience and care in attending it ! Want of oil would in a 
short time, perhaps, cause it to run hard, and if forced without 



PRUDENCE AND JUDGMENT NECESSARY. 39 

looking to the direct cause, would only produce greater injury. 
A little oil in one place, a little readjustment where needed in 
another, would repair a derangement which perhaps violent 
force would only increase to an irreparable degree. 

While the subjection of horses requires resources of power, 
the finer faculties of the mind must be brought into play, in 
determining just where and to what extent this power is to be 
directed ; and remember, the greater your prudence and skill in 
doing this, the less appearance of violence. 

The great point in reforming a horse is to change his char- 
acter, without breaking his spirit or in any way injuring 
him. Now my system of subjection will enable all this, if 
ordinary prudence is used in its application. I would earnestly 
urge upon the reader to keep in mind the fact that it is to the 
strategy based upon the exercise of reason that gives man his 
position of supremacy, and that to be a really good horseman 
requires its' exercise in directing the efforts in the performance 
of this duty. 

Safety Shafts. 

Get three scantlings or poles of good tough timber of about 
four inches in diameter and fourteen feet in length each. Put 
down two of these, so as to bring them two feet apart at one 
end and thirteen at the other. Now lay the other pole across 
on the ends of the others widest apart, about six inches from 
the ends. Mark and halve them together. Then bore a hole 
through both pieces at each corner so fitted, and bolt them 
firmly together. To fix the other ends, get a piece of tire 
iron four feet long, and bend it in the form of a breast collar, 
the rounding side in, so as to have each end extend back on 
the inside of the holes ten or twelve inches, and fit up nicely 
to the wood; have two holes punched or drilled through each 
end of the iron, by which to bolt it firmly to the poles. Then 
drive staples into or near the ends. 

To finish the other ends, take two pieces of iron about a 
foot each in length and an inch in diameter, flat one end and 
punch through two holes. Work down the other ends to a 
sharp point ; bend down the ends so sharpened about six 
inches, in the form of a half circle ; bolt these irons under the 
ends of the poles, the sharp ends pointing down and back, 
forming dogs, something like those on the ends of sleigh 
runners, to prevent the sleigh running back. Now harness 



40 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

your horse into this arrangement, taking the precaution to 
wind the irons across the ends with an old piece of cloth, and 
strengthening the harness if at all likely to break, by tying a 
piece of rope around with a piece of breeching, and around 
the body as may be thought necessary. Though perhaps the 
best way to hold the shafts, as we call them, nicely up to the 
neck, is by bringing a strong rope or strap over the neck, and 
fastening around the iron near the wood. This is a very good 
means by which to drive unmanageable horses towards such 
causes of fear as cars, etc. Hitch the horse into the shafts, 
let the reins run back through the lugs; get behind and 
drive around, touching up with the whip as may be necessary. 
If the horse is valuable, and it is desired to take unusual pre- 
caution in overcoming fear of cars, or any other greatly 
exciting cause to drive up to or by, the shafts are good. It 
is impossible for the horse to run back or sidewise, or rear 
over back. The horse is almost helpless, so far as being able 
to run back or sidewise. 

Running Away. 

This habit may be induced by a great variety of causes — 
principally by becoming frightened in some way, though often 
by the horse learning to pull against the bit so hard as to 
defy control, and is therefore at the least cause of irritation 
disposed to pull ahead and run away. When actuated by fear, 
the resistance is usually so sudden and violent as to induce a 
degree of resistance to the restraint of the bit we have not 
power to prevent or control. Sometimes, too, the horse will 
spring sidewise, or turn around in doing this, and will so 
learn the trick that at the least excitement he will spring 
into a sharp run. All this resistance, it is seen, results from 
defective training of the mouth, and is virtually surmounted 
when able to force so great a degree of control by the bit as 
to break up all disposition to resist restraint when excited. 

K mining away is a very serious and dangerous habit, and 
all such predispositions should be thoroughly broken up when 
manifested. If very bad, tone down resistance by subjecting 
the animal to a course of subjection ; after which put on the 
breaking bit and force the most thorough submission to the 
slightest restraint of the reins. 

Let this be very thoroughly done. Then hitch to wagon, 
making the horse stop whenever called upon or pulled upon 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 41 

by the reins, until there is no disposition to resist, though 
subjected to the greatest excitement. Some horses subject to 
this habit will yield readily to the use of the four ring bit. The 
foot-strap is also a valuable auxiliary, but the breaking bit is 
in advance of anything else in overcoming this habit. Horses 
of this character should be made thoroughly manageable 
before beins; trusted. 



Turning Around. 

If the horse turns around, drive first with harness, whip up 
sharply, then make him stop, always pulling in the opposite 
direction from that the horse usually turns, until there is not 
only the most prompt obedience to the commands in going 
ahead, but ready submission to control, right or left, or in stop- 
ping, as may be required. Sometimes the habit is contracted of 
pulling so hard on the bit as to resist control. In this case all 
that is necessary to do is to train the mouth once or twice 
with breaking bit, or use the four ring bit, and the habit will be 
broken up. If one rein is pulled upon, pull sharply on the 
opposite rein, and repeating at each indication of such a pur- 
pose until the head is yielded freely and evenly. 

In reviewing the common causes of this habit, we see that 
two objects must govern the efforts. First : To overcome or 
neutralize the exciting cause of resistance — usually some 
cause of fear. Second : To make the mouth perfectly submis- 
sive to the most delicate restraint of the bit ; it being essential 
that the exciting cause should be removed, while the power 
to control resistance must be increased. 

I will in this connection add, that there is no part of the 
training of horses w r hich should be done more thoroughly, or 
tested more carefully, than this of teaching a proper submis- 
sion of the mouth to the bit. Yet I will venture to assert 
none is more imperfectly or ignorantly attempted ; and that 
the more experienced and intelligent horsemen should regard 
doing this difficult, when there is so much to indicate to the 
most ordinary observer the method of doing it with ease and 
certainty, seems strange. And yet, perhaps, this is not so 
strange, since it has been very much of a puzzle to do this 
at all, and really in its true aspect shows more real scieuce 
than can be illustrated in any other feature of my treatment, 
since upon this must depend ultimately the readiness and 



42 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

success with which the horse can be guided and controlled in 
harness. 

It is essential in training a horse well to the bit, that the 
idea is given correctly of submitting the head up and back 
when pulled upon. Also, that the horse should be made to 
understand exactly the meaning of every signal of guidance 
and restraint. In training the mouth, the exact idea can be 
conveyed by being particular in repeating the same kind of 
reproof, by pulling sharply whenever there is an attempt at 
pulling hard. There is soon not only prompt obedience to 
restraint of the bit, but there is no disposition or confidence to 
resist control. Remember a horse cannot understand the 
object of such restraint, if there is not uniformity of action 
and language. Yet most people talk to their horses in the 
most careless manner. If there is an intention of approaching 
a horse, the usual word is " whoa ! " In driving, when it is 
desired to make the horse go slow, u whoa " is the usual 
word, and the consequence is the animal does not know what 
is meant by "whoa." Every action and word should have a 
special meaning, and they should never conflict, that the 
understanding may not be confused. " Whoa" should be an 
imperative command to stop. To go slower requires the use 
of some other word. Even every motion of the whip should 
have a special meaning. If the horse is managed with care 
in this way, he becomes almost a machine, that yields submis- 
sion to the slightest touch or word of command. 

Running Back. 

To break up this habit, there must be established a thorough 
fear of the whip, so as to induce going ahead when com- 
manded. Put on harness, and tie the tugs into the rings of 
the breeching rather short. Drive around with the reins, 
giving a short cut with a good bow whip around the legs 
once in a while, if not prompt. As the horse learns to spring 
ahead when commanded, pull a little on the lines, gradually 
repeating until he will pull quite hard on the bit to go ahead. 
Make this as thorough as possible. In driving, repeat and 
carry out this, going ahead promptly, whipping up sharply 
once in a while if necessary. 

The main point to make with horses of this character, is to 
create a thorough fear of the whip. To do this well while 
driving with harness, whip around the hind legs sharply, 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 43 

until the horse will start ahead promptly when commanded. 
Now, attach to wagon, and gradually work up with whip 
until there is prompt obedience. The foot strap may be put 
on if there is any possible danger of the horse running back 
when hitched. A much surer, though more complicated way, 
is to use the safety shafts. 

Kicking in Harness. 

This is apparently the most dangerous and difficult habit to 
overcome, to which horses are subject ; yet it is a habit that 
yields readily to my treatment, but requires care and thor- 
oughness and a large share of common sense in determining 
how much must be done and when to stop. This cannot be 
learned by any fixed rule, since there is such a great differ- 
ence of extremes shown in this habit that it is not safe to 
venture a limit of what and how much must be done. I have 
often broken horses of kicking, of apparently the worst 
character, in twenty or thirty minutes. Then again, one 
scarcely confirmed in the habit may require very much more 
time ; and a few extreme cases, of apparently a mild charac- 
ter when not excited, would call out all my resources for 
hours, to make the subject yield safely to control. I broke a 
horse in Maine of the worst character, of kicking, by a few 
pulls upon the war bridle. At all events, the owner informed 
me months afterwards, that the animal remained perfectly 
docile. This horse would kick at anybody or anything. 

But I found a horse in Mississippi, which was perfectly gen- 
tle to ride or handle, would only kick when to wagon, yet he 
was the most terribly persistent kicker when in harness I ever 
saw, or ever expect to see. All ordinary treatment was only 
as play to this horse. Circumstances made it necessary to 
break up the habit, and I felt compelled to do so, and suc- 
ceeded only after three lessons. Never did a horse resist 
more bravely, but I succeeded in making the animal so gentle 
as to submit the wagon against the heels going down hill, 
and he was driven by me a week after being broken, in the 
presence of a large concourse of people, proving safe and 
gentle afterwards. 

Breaking of kicking, as with most other habits, requires 
thoroughness in what is attempted. If there is mure fear 
than willfulness, the fear must be thoroughly overcome. If 
based upon willfulness, that must be mastered at any hazard. 



44 CORRECTING BAD 1IAEITS. 

lit either case, put through a careful but thorough course of 
subjection, exciting resistance by rubbing a stick of some kind 
against and between the legs until there is no resistance; now 
put on harness and breaking bit, and compel perfect submission 
to its restraint. Let the hind legs be touched as before, and 
at each indication of resistance, punish sharply ; with the reins 
back the animal against a rail fence or anything convenient. 
If there is perfect submission, back into the shafts of the 
wagon, or bring the shafts over the back gently. This is a 
step requiring much caution and firmness. Stand at the left 
shoulder, grasping the rein near the bit firmly, and as the shafts 
are brought forward, and the cross-piece comes in contact 
with the legs, if there is much sensitiveness shown, give 
him a sharp, quick jerk upon the reins, which will at once 
disconcert the horse, and at the same time throw the head so 
high as to make it difficult for him to kick. Force this point 
well, until the contact of the wagon is borne, when the harness 
may be attached. Now drive around gently, stopping and 
starting repeatedly, carefully observing how much forcing 
the horse will bear. If there is no indication of serious 
resistance, follow up by driving around, until there is perfect 
submission. At each repetition of being hitched to a wagon 
for a few days, let the horse be backed against the cross-piece 
several times until it is borne without flinching. 

This precaution of testing repeatedly is absolutely essential 
to prevent and overcome any growing sensibility or confidence 
of ability to kick when driven, until there is not discovered 
any disposition to indulge in the habit. 

If this will not do, repeat the lesson of subjection which 
the reader has been shown, and if there is any doubt about 
submitting to the shafts without danger of an accident, get 
two poles about twelve feet each in length; lay them down 
on the ground so that the small ends will be about twenty-two 
inches apart, and the large ends are six or seven feet apart. 
Next get a piece of pole of the same size, lay across and tie 
firmly to the side poles just far enough from the forward ends 
so when the horse is hitched in the tugs are tied to this cross- 
piece with pieces of cord. Hitch to this without hold- 
backs, and drive around, repeatedly stopping and backing 
the horse against the cross-piece until there is perfect sub- 
mission. This driving in poles may be repeated if thought 
necessary, remembering that it is absolutely necessary to 
make every step sure before the next is attempted. 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 45 

A great advantage of repeating the lesson is, that the sen- 
sibility of the mouth is so greatly increased that the most 
plucky horse will scarcely dare resist the bit after being 
severely punished a few times. If the horse yields, but is 
doubtful or appears touchy and sensitive once in a while, you 
may be able to make your point by putting on the foot strap, 
as directed under that head. 

It must be borne in mind that much depends in making 
subjection thorough, as the peculiarity of treatment is, that no 
matter how good or proper the treatment, the horse must be 
made to yield unconditionally, or failure is not only probable 
but almost certain. 

If, however, the horse will not yield to this treatment, it 
will be necessary to resort to more complicated and slower 
treatment, by which to counteract resistance, with more 
severe reproof. 



Kicking Straps. 

To do this, have made four straps, like common hame 
straps; two long enough to buckle around the hind legs 
above the gambrels, and two a little shorter, so as to be in 
proportion, to buckle around 
just below the gambrel. The 
straps should be an inch and 
a quarter wide, good thick 
leather, and the buckles 
should be heavy. Now 
have made two D's, just 
twice as long as the straps 
are wide. This D should - 
have the straight part a ~ 
little rounding, and the cor- 
ners not quite to a sharp point. Put a long and short strap 
on each D, and buckle them around the hind legs of the 
horse; the long strap above and the short one below the 
gambrel, bringing the D in front of the leg. These we desig- 
nate KICKING STRAPS. 

Put a strong well-fitting rope halter on the head, tie a 
strong two-inch ring on the end of the hitching part, which 
should be of a length to extend between the fore-legs, over 
and just back of the belly band. Then take a piece of strong 
manilla rope, long enough to extend from the ring on the end 




46 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

of the halter back to each hind leg. Pass the end of this 
through the ring to the center, and tie each end carefully into 
the D's on the straps, the whole so arranged in length that 
the horse can travel easily and naturally. Now as soon as 
the horse kicks, the most severe punishment must result upon 
the nose. No quarter is to be given until there is perfect 
submission. The harness may be put on after the horse 
ceases kicking, and drive around as before. These straps 
should be kept on until there is no disposition to kick. 

If the mouth is hard, use breaking bit and force as before, 
with the reins, until there is perfect submission. The horse is 
to be treated with the utmost kindness when he yields. Bear 
in mind this rule must not be disregarded, of addressing and 
winning the cooperation of the affections as soon as there is 
submission. The foot strap may be used as a precaution 
when hitched to wagon, until submission is made sure. 

If the mouth is naturally sensitive, and the horse is docile 
but quick and irritable, a different policy must be adopted, as 
the horse may drive gently for hours, or even days, and yet 
may kick at a real or fancied cause of annoyance. This 
mode of treatment would not work well with such, as they 
soon become cautious by throwing the head down when there 
is such an intention, and there is not persistence enough to 
make reproof sufficiently positive to cure the habit. 

The overdraw check will now be just the thing. But 
care must be taken to apply it right, or there will be cause for 
disappointment in its use. The object is now to simply disable 
the horse from his purpose at the least attempt to kick, which 
we can easily do, especially while in single harness. Probably 
the best way to do this is as follows : 

Get a small steel bit and hang it loosely above the driving 
bit in the bridle. Put the bridle on the head ; now provide 
yourself with a fine, strong piece of hemp or cotton cord, 
about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and sixteen feet in 
length. Cotton plow line is just the thing, or that kept at 
hardware stores for hanging windows, will do. Put the 
center of this cord back of the ears, run the ends back through 
the rings of the small bit and through the gag runners, which 
should be close up to the ears. (See cut.) Pass them now 
through the terrets and back through a ring, which must 
be attached as far back upon the crouper as possible, and 
attach the ends to the shafts on each side of the hips. At 
first this check should be drawn short, to bring the head as 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 



47 



high as the horse can bear. The head is now not only 
high, but the least effort to kick will thwart itself by 
drawing the check tighter, thereby preventing the horse 
from doing any mischief. As there is manifested less clispo- 




Over draw Check for Kickers. 

sition to kick, give more freedom to the head. When the 
animal proves safe, change and use the common check rein, 
at first rather short. A nicely rounded strap may be used 
instead of the cord. I would here add, that I am aware very 
many will fail to break up the habit of kicking, if the horse is 
confident and persistent, for want of judgment and firmness. 
Many of those who use horses, and who think, too, that they 
are good horsemen, as the term is, are so confoundedly igno- 
rant, rude, and wanting in energy to do anything more than 
half right, or do more than perhaps half what is necessary, 
that it is no cause for surprise that they should often fail. 

Look first for the cause of resistance, second for the type of 
disposition, and try to make the treatment such as will pre- 
vent and overcome the habit in the most direct and positive 
manner, always striving to be cool and careful. Treat the 
horse kindly, even with marked proofs of affection, as soon as 
there is submission. 

Kicking while Harnessing'. 

Put on the war bridle (small loop,) and w r ork up with it 
sharply right and left a few times, then pull down tight, 
and tie into a half hitch. While holding the cord in the left 



48 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

hand, step back and pass the hand from the shoulders to the 
hind parts gently. If this is borne, take the harness in the 
right hand and work it back gently over the back. As this 
is borne, untie the cord and tie down, so as to give the mouth 
a little more freedom. Now go back and. handle as before, 
being carefnl to be gentle ; if there is resistance, punish 
sharply, tie down short again, and put the harness on. When 
there is submission, untie, then work back as before ; at the 
least indication of resistance, tremble on the cord until the 
horse will bear the harness while free from restraint. 

Kicking while Grooming. 

Some horses are so thin skinned that they can scarcely 
bear a currycomb on the flanks or legs, and when excited by 
rough treatment and too severe use of the currycomb, are 
easily made vicious to handle or groom. Put on the war 
bridle, and after working up with it, hold tightly, and with 
the left hand use the currycomb on the back, gradually work- 
ing to the sensitive part ; as there is submission, give a little 
more freedom to the mouth, and work back lightly, If the 
horse seems unable to bear the currycomb, use the brush 
instead, and that, if necessary, lightly. Work lightly and 
indirectly to the sensitive part, at the same time speaking 
gently. It is almost impossible to overcome this habit if 
there is not gentleness and kind treatment. 

The currycomb is used too much by most grooms. A sharp 
toothed, brass currycomb, must not he used on a thin skinned 
horse ; use a brush. I should want a horse to kick a man 
out of the stall who would use a currycomb with needless 
severity, or be otherwise needlessly harsh. 

Kicking while Shoeing. 

Some horses have a peculiar aversion to having their feet 
handled, and if once aroused to resistance, from any cause, 
are apt to become pretty determined in their habit. If the 
foot is pulled away when taken up, or the horse is excited 
and injured in some way while the foot is held, the fear of 
injury is produced and associated with the requirement, which, 
by the usual pulling, hauling and kicking practices of the 
shop, makes the horse worse. The least appearance of ability 
to resist, after being taken in hand, always inspires the horse 
to renewed confidence and resistance, and if there is not 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 49 

ability or perseverance enough to enforce perfect submission, 
after trying to do so, the horse is only made more determined 
in the habit. As the object is to break up the habit, the 
energies must be concentrated as directly and forcibly as pos 
sible, until the horse is so disconcerted and shaken in the con- 
fidence of his powers of resistance as to yield to restraint, and 
submit the feet as required, when submission must be made 
permanent by patient, gentle treatment. If only a little 
irritable and restless at being shod, put on the war bridle, draw 
tight, and tie in a half hitch. The foot can now be handled. 
Untie in a few minutes, and let the cord be pulled upon a 
little when disposed to resist, which will distract the attention 
and cause submission. If the resistance is determined, take 
up the fore foot and have it held by an assistant ; tie the end 
of the long web around the hind foot above the fetlock. This 
done, request the assistant to let go the foot and hold by the 
head ; while standing opposite the shoulder, pull upon the 
strap until the foot is brought well forward, giving loose the 
instant there is an effort to jerk or kick. Repeat pulling 
and letting go, until submitted freely. Now step directly 
behind and pull back, giving, as before, until submissive ; 
then bring the web over the back around across the breast, 
pulling short enough to bring the foot well forward ; pass the 
end back under the part over the back, and pull tight. 

Let the assistant now grasp the w r eb, holding firmly as 
ever, with the left hand holding the head by the bridle. 
This brings the leg forward, where it can be handled at will. 
If this will not do, tie the end of the web or rope around the 
neck, near the shoulders, in the form of a running noose ; pass 
the other end back between the fore legs, around the hind 
leg, below the fetlock and back through the loop, around 
the neck, drawing it through short enough to bring the foot 
well forward. Pass the end back under to prevent sliding, 
and retain in the hand. The horse will now be very likely 
to struggle to get the foot loose. Should his resistance 
be so great as to endanger injury, you can give loose on 
the end of the rope. When the horse ceases trying to get 
the foot loose, rest the left hand upon the hip, with the 
right pull upon the foot forward and outward. If there is 
great resistance, pull around by the head, which will enable 
you to keep him in such limits as you wish. When the strug- 
gle ceases, go back and handle as before. When the foot is 



50 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

submitted to the hand, while held to the restraint of the 
rope, put the cord well back upon the neck, draw it down 
tightly, and tie it into a half hitch. Then pull upon 
the foot with the hand as before. If not resisted, untie the 
strap and take the foot in hand gently. Put it down and 
take it up, rubbing and handling until there is entire submis- 
sion. Then carry it back with the right hand, keeping well 
forward out of danger, by resting the left hand upon the hip, 
and pulling and yielding to the foot until manageable. Now 
pass the left hand down the inside of the leg, take it from the 
right and carry it back gently ; put it down and take it up 
once or twice. Hammer upon it lightly, gradually increasing, 
until the foot is submitted as required. Now untie the cord 
and tie it a little longer; go back and handle the foot as 
before. If submitted, untie the cord, holding the end in the 
left hand, and handle as before. If there is an intimation of 
resistance, tremble on the cord, which will keep attention on 
the mouth, and remind of the previous control until the foot 
is submitted without restraint. Manage the other hind foot 
in the same manner, if necessary. The feet of such horses 
should be taken up and pounded upon repeatedly in the 
stable, until submission becomes habitual. It must be borne 
in mind that the smith shop is no place to more than prevent 
resistance while shoeing, and it must be expected that a very 
bad horse of this character will not be made more than tem- 
porarily submissive by the treatment usually necessary to 
enable handling the feet to be shod. Indeed, such efforts are 
well calculated to excite aversion to a shop and being shod, 
and hence a horse of courage and sensibility is liable to be 
confirmed in the resistance by such temporary treatment. 

Let the horse be handled thoroughly at home, and if neces- 
sary put through a course of subjection, handling the feet 
repeatedly until perfectly gentle. When taken to the shop, 
if necessary, simply remind that submission must be yielded, 
and treat gently — caressing and rubbing head and neck the- 
way the hair lies. Colts should not be taken to a shop to be 
shod uniil thoroughly accustomed to have the feet handled. 

Balking. 

This habit is usually caused by confusing and overloading, or 
trying to force too much by whipping when exhausted, or when 
the draught from some cause becomes too great for the horse 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 51 

to manage, thereby exciting and discouraging the horse before 
able to settle down to a steady, determined pull. When a 
horse, and especially a young one, becomes mad, and will not 
pull when commanded, there should not be a word or an 
action that would betray an understanding of the resistance. 
Change position — take up time in some way by fixing the 
harness or walking around, whistling or singing, if in the 
mood. There must not be any appearance of anger. Give 
the horse time to get over the irritation and become willing 
to use his strength against the collar. Any characteristic of 
willfulness denotes spirit and sensibility, consequently not dis- 
posed to submit to being rudely and injudiciously forced in 
harness. If double, get both horses to start evenly. This can 
be done best, and greatly lessen the weight of the load in 
starting, by standing directly in front of both horses, catching 
the bits with the hands. Now move the horses gently to the 
right or left, until the wheel almost strikes the side of the 
wagon — giving them time to become steady. When you see 
they are ready, speak with cheerful, encouraging voice, "come 
boys." If this precaution is taken, there will be no further 
trouble ; but bear in mind that the horses must not now be 
permitted to go to the limit of their strength. While they are 
still pulling with energy, at the first favorable place stop them. 
After ample time to recuperate, speak to them gently to go. 
It seems to be natural for a horse to go ahead and draw all he 
can, and it is only when confused, excited and abused in the 
most unreasonable and imprudent manner, that the disposition 
is excited to balk. When once the habit is acquired, it is 
liable at any moment to be persisted in if excited or much 
force is used. 

If there is any treatment to which horses are subject in 
educating to harness that is unreasonable and needlessly harsh, 
and should be corrected, it is that of pounding or whipping to 
make them go, when perhaps the animals are confused and 
discouraged, and not in a condition to make much of an effort. 

The first and most fatal cause of this perplexing habit is 
the common practice of harnessing horses and attempting to 
drive them, and make them draw heavy loads, before the 
mouth is even trained to submit to the guidance or restraint 
of the bit. I get out of all patience with men who say they 
are good horsemen, pride themselves for perhaps owning many 
horses, and always having more or less to do with them, who 



52 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

talk and act as if all that is necessary to do is to " whip the 
animal through" at all hazards. If this would make the horse 
go when commenced, it would be pardonable ; but it is well 
known, or ought to be, that whipping in harness, if there is 
not certainty in forcing obedience, is just what should not be 
done. The palliative treatment of patience and means of 
encouragement, if there is not a knowledge of proper treat- 
ment, should always be adopted. It is only reasonable that 
the horse should resist and become fixed in the habit when 
needlessly excited and abused. 

The whip is too irritating, without giving sufficient 
power to force obedience, and as the will is stimulated to 
increased positiveness and sensibility it becomes blunted in 
proportion to the degree the blood is warmed, this advantage 
of force by the whip decreases, while the resistance is 
increased, and hence is often a direct cause of failure. 

If the whip is to be depended upon, the horse should be 
driven around in harness, when it should be made to crack 
keenly around the hind legs the instant after "get up" is 
spoken, until the horse learns to spring ahead when com- 
manded. When there is perfect obedience, attach to the 
wagon and move gently, stopping and starting often, until 
obedience becomes habitual. To prevent this habit the colt 
should be driven around in harness, touching up with the 
whip, until the idea of starting at the touch of the whip, and 
guiding and submitting to the bit becomes prompt and ha- 
bitual. Then drive slowly and gently for some time after 
being attached to the wagon. 

If the habit is formed, and especially in single harness, it is 
usually more from resistance to the bit than collar, and if the 
horse is young he will yield readily to simple treatment. Put 
through a careful but thorough course of subjection. Then 
put on harness and breaking bit. Drive around, whipping 
sharply the instant the horse does not start when commanded, 
guiding right and left, and stopping at the control of the bit. 
If there is a habit of lunging ahead, regardless of the bit, 
or of not standing as desired when hitched, be positive and 
thorough in requiring instant obedience to the command 
whoa. Drive around until there is perfect obedience. Then 
hitch to wagon, gently start and stop the horse repeatedly, 
gradually becoming positive and commanding in action, until 
the obedience is made certain. The lesson of driving to har- 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 53 

ness should be repeated, if there is any disposition to resist. 
But if the resistance is so positive that this treatment will not 
do, try the war bridle, pulling right and left, until the horse 
yields promptly to the least restraint upon the head. There 
must be kindness and flattery for every act of obedience, and 
the most positive reproof at each effort of resistance. But too 
much regard cannot be paid to the value of affectionate treat- 
ment when there is obedience. Talk kindly, give apples, 
oats, or anything the horse likes. 

Effect of Kindness. 

The impression of kind treatment, gradually showing and 
encouraging the animal to yield obedience, is certainly very 
effective, when carried out well in practice. During my 
early experience I traded horses very often. In this way I 
became the owner of a pony mare, eight years old. She 
proved balky, and on inquiry I learned that she had been 
traded round for years, and had been owned by nearly all 
the sharp jockeys in the country, being entirely unmanage- 
able. She would neither go down hill or move on a level in 
harness. Neighbors advised me to prosecute for being imposed 
upon with such a good-for-nothing animal. Making it a rule 
not to find fault if cheated, I declared myself satisfied, and 
concluded to try what I could do with her. I first filled my 
pockets with apples, led the mare to a secluded piece of 
smooth, slightly descending road, hauling the buggy by hand ; 
hitched her to> the buggy, but did not urge her to go ; read a 
paper the better to show indifference. 

After a while she started on a run. To try to make her 
go slow by pulling, would be equivalent to making her stop, 
and so let her go until she wore off the sharp edge of her am- 
bition. I now gradually pulled her back, as I could see she 
would bear, when I reached a descending piece of ground, 
made her stop, got out of the wagon, talked gently, gave her 
an apple, then moved forward a little, saying "come Jennie," 
(her name,) gave her another apple, rubbing her head, as be- 
fore, and so repeated, for about half an hour. Then would 
get into the buggy and make her start ; after going a few feet 
or rods making her stop, but always getting out and reward- 
ing her with an apple* The result was, that Jennie soon not 
only would start and stop when commanded, but became 
anxious to obey me. Drove her home; treated her with the 



54 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

utmost kindness ; next day hitched her up gently ; made her 
start and stop a few times before getting into the buggy ; got 
into the buggy ; soon made her stop, but rewarded her as 
before. The result was that I soon could depend upon her 
starting and stopping when commanded. Of course I carried 
this treatment from a descending to an ascending grade, teach- 
ing the mare gradually to use her strength. The result was 
that she became one of the most willing and pleasant little 
working animals I ever owned. Sold her in a few weeks. 
She became the property of a rough, bad man to horses, who, 
by needless abuse, made her balk on his way home, and she be- 
came spoiled. This mare was of a sanguine nervous tempera- 
ment, naturally willing to do all she could when shown and 
treated kindly, but would not bear whipping and abuse. Her 
will was so strong that she would stand bravely, regardless of 
the most severe whipping. I struck her with the whip but 
once, when she threw herself down in the harness. There 
cannot be too much care and patience with young horses that 
are learning to drive. If a little stubborn, putting through a 
short course of subjection and teaching to move forward, as 
before explained, will soon produce perfect submission. If, 
however, the habit is thoroughly formed, it must be counter- 
acted by direct means. To do this best, hitch the balker by 
the side of a gentle horse. Attach a strong piece of cord in 
the form of a crouper, under the tail of the balker, bring 
forward through the terret and tie to the hame ring of the 
gentle horse, just short enough to give freedom so long as the 
horses are even, but the instant there is a disposition to re-' 
fuse, the whole power of the gentle horse is brought to bear 
upon the tail, which will cause the horse to jump forward 
instantly. Stop and start repeatedly, until there is no dispo- 
sition to refuse moving forward when commanded. Should 
pulling on the tail irritate and cause kicking, at once remove 
the cord ; tie the end of the hair into a knot ; tie the cord to 
the hair by this knot ; bring forward between the legs and 
attach the cord to the hame ring or collar of the gentle horse, 
as before. The restraint is now on the tail lengthwise, 
which has a remarkably disconcerting influence, with great 
power to force the horse forward when the gentle horse starts. 
If this should fail, there is but one resource left, which I can 
here describe, but which is very effective and valuable if 
properly applied. 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 55 

Put the war bridle on ; bring the part over the neck for- 
ward to the ears ; now jerk sidewise and ahead, and finally 
ahead as there is submission, until there is prompt obedience 
in coming ahead when pulled upon. Hitch to wagon by the 
side of a true horse. Have prepared a smooth stiff pole 
about the length of the wagon tongue. Bore a hole a few 
inches from the large end, and about a foot or more forward 
of the head bore another. Lay this pole over that of the 
wagon, the end over that of the true horse's whiffietree, and 
tie firmly on top with a piece of cord. Now step forward and 




Pole applied for Balkers. 

tie a piece of small rope from one hame ring to the other of 
the horses, under the pole, so as to be just taut when in posi- 
tion. Pass another piece of the same sized cord around the 
pole and tie it into the true horse's hame ring short enough to 
hold the pole in the center. Tie the cord on the head now to 
the pole through the hole, just long enough to give freedom, 
so long as the horses keep even ; but as soon as there is 
refusal to go, the strength of the true horse is brought by the 
pole on the head, which will compel going ahead, (see cut.) 
Start and stop the horses often, until obedience is secured. 
This pole may be used so long as there is any disposition to 
balk. 

The horse should not be required at first to use much strength 
in drawing. Let this be required gradually, as there is obe- 
dience and willingness inspired to work. It is a grave fault 
to try to make the horse work immediately. This must not 
be attempted. First, create a willingness to start when com- 
manded, then gradually increase the load until it becomes 
habitual to draw when commanded. I am aware very many 



56 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

will have much trouble, and may wholly fail with horses of 
this character. It is presumed that there is tact and intelli- 
gence enough to appreciate and understand the necessity of 
being patient, prudent and thorough in adapting the efforts 
skillfully. Those who will not have or have not mind enough 
to feel the responsibility and value of being governed by 
reason in the treatment of habits, not only of this type but 
of any other, must expect a possibility of failure with some 
very bad horses. 

A very good way to work a single balker is to drive first 
by the side of a gentle horse with the pole, then hitch to 
single wagon, using two small poles instead of reins to the bit. 
Now, if the horse does not move promptly when commanded, 
a little push on the poles will cause him to start, and soon 
cause prompt obedience. But I would remind again that 
patience, delicacy and skill in carrying out the principles 
taught, are the primary and grand essentials to insure success. 
I would therefore remind, that to illustrate the full value of 
my theory, it is indispensable that all the firmness, skill and 
patience possible should be used in directing and controlling 
the efforts, since without a judicious applicatton of the efforts 
the advantages may be so far neutralized as to prevent or 
greatly diminish success. 

Kicking in the Stall. 

This is one of those habits that require great caution, 
judgment and care in guarding against danger. Let the 
horse know by some signal or command, of your presence 
and intention to approach. Many horses of the gentlest char- 
acter would kick if approached suddenly and unexpectedly ; 
and again, many horses that are gentle but a little peevish, 
will not bear being approached without a little care in attract- 
ing attention. The motion of the ears and lips, and expres- 
sion of the eye, will always notify of danger. And here let 
me warn the reader that however careful he may be in not 
going too near the horse, there must not be a semblance of 
fear shown in language or actions. The commands must be 
low and positive, indicating power. If the horse will not 
move round and seem to be distracted from a positive inten- 
tion, stand still, and if the animal does not yield, walk off, 
carelessly whistling, in such a way that the horse does not 
see that you feel defeated. 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 57 

If you have his attention, repeat the words "get around, or 
over," with a positiveness that must be obeyed, looking at the 
eye as if you could and would crush all opposition. When 
you see the horse shrink from your gaze, glide up to the 
shoulder, before the mind can be made to act, and the next 
instant let the left hand be passed along the neck and down 
the head to the nose piece of the halter, and you are safe, as 
the horse cannot now kick, strike or bite you. I have repeat- 
edly got to the shoulder of horses in this way that would 
kick and strike the stall just after I passed, yet not be struck ; 
it is a feat, however, that must not be attempted unless neces- 
sary. In going out, the rule is the same — pull the head 
towards you, looking at the eye sternly ; this will throw the 
quarters from you, and at the instant you let go, glide out 
and you are safe. 

If the horse is dangerous, the safest and best course is to 
put on the war bridle and make him feel your power by a few 
sharp jerks of it. Lead the animal into the stall, then step 
back opposite the hips and say, " get around." If there is 
not prompt obedience, give a sharp jerk, which will throw the 
hind part from you. Rej)eat this, and in a short time the 
horse will learn to step around promptly when commanded, 
and allow being approached. If the horse is persistent, leave 
the cord on, the small loop being left larger and passed above 
the nose-piece or through the rings of the halter. As you 
now step out, retain the cord in the hand and hang or tie the 
end to a nail on the post, leaving sufficient length to permit 
the horse entire freedom to the halter. Now when you. 
desire to go into the stall, if the horse does not step around 
when commanded, untie or unhook the end of the cord and 
give a jerk upon it, which will bring the animal to his senses. 
Leaving this on a few days, caressing and giving presents of 
sugar, apples, or anything of which the horse is fond, will 
soon not only break up the confidence, but so enlist the atten- 
tion that your approach will be looked for, and eagerly invited 
to him by stepping around, and endeavoring to reach toward 
you for the present. 

I would here observe that there are very many men who 
are not fit to have anything to do with a sensitive, well-bred 
horse. They are either so coarse and harsh as to excite 
resentment, and hate, or so dull and ignorant that they cannot 
or will not see that they must both conceal fear and avoid 
3* 



58 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

danger. They will not do either. They abuse and show so 
much fear as both to excite and encourage resistance, and 
without the genius or tact to correct the cause of mischief 
they attribute all the trouble to the natural viciousness of the 
animal. 

I would caution also against teasing horses in the stall, or 
while cleaning, by pinching, pricking or whipping, to "show 
off," as the term is. Gentlemen who own fine horses should 
be very particular about this, and a man who would in any 
way persist in such treatment, or in any manner excite 
resistance by annoying or abusive treatment, should be at 
once discharged, whatever his other qualifications. 

Pulling on the Halter. 

It is the disposition of the horse to persist in what he learns, 
and this is remarkably so where the habit is one of resistance 
to the restraint of the halter or bit. If the halter strap is 
broken once or twice, there is a determined purpose to pull 
loose at all hazards when hitched. This is sometimes only in 
the place the habit has been learned. Thus a horse learns to 
pull loose in the stall — he will resist being hitched in stall, but 
will submit to be hitched anywhere else; or the horse has 
learned to pull loose in the street and resists there, but will 
submit and not pull in the stall. This habit is taught either 
by being tied by the halter before knowing or being taught to 
submit to being tied, or accidentally breaking the tying 
strap. If from the first cause the animal becomes frightened, 
pulls, and if successful in breaking loose, the habit is estab- 
lished ; or the halter strap is so weak that the least jerk upon 
it causes it to break, the habit becomes fixed. 

Put on the war bridle, and train the horse about until he 
will come to you readily. Now bring the part over the neck 
forward to the ears, and pull more on a line with the body, 
repeating until there is prompt obedience to the least pull 
forward. Wind the cord once around a post, keeping the end 
in the hand, so as to let it loose a little if necessary. Excite 
the horse to pull a little, which he will soon fear to do, as 
there is great pain induced by the purchase of the war bridle 
in this way. Repeat until he will stand, and let the whip or 
any other means of excitement be used, without trying to pull. 

Should this fail, try the following method : 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 59 

Get a strong half-inch cord sixteen feet in length ; put the 
center under the tail like a crouper ; twist them a few times 
as you bring them forward over the back ; pass forward on 




Treating a Halter Puller. 

each side of the neck, through the halter ring and tie to the 
post or manger same as a halter ; excite bj any means that 
will make the horse pull until the habit is overcome. To 
insure safety, would hitch so for. a few days, or so long as 
there is any predisposition to pull on the halter. Same 
treatment for pulling on the bridle. 

Biting and Striking. 

There are many habits which to break up successfully 
require not only good judgment but the highest order of nerve, 
and this is not only one of that class, but one that requires 
perseverance and caution. The least want of watchfulness 
will encourage this propensity; and however thorough the 
training, if there is not this care, the horse will be encouraged 
to become aggressive, and once allowed to do so successfully 
the point gained is lost. Hence the necessity of being able to 
see the intention at a glance, and disconcert the mind from its 
purpose before being fully developed. The horse must be 
made to yield the most perfect submission. If a stallion this 
is an absolute necessity. If the war bridle will not enable 
this, put through a course of subjection, and follow up with 
either the four ring bit or war bridle, punishing sharply. In 
approaching afterwards, speak sharply "get round!" or any 
signal that will attract attention. Let the left hand be put on 



60 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

the shoulder, (near side,) glide it up the neck to the head, 
then down to the nose-piece of the halter. If there is an 
attempt to bite now, the hand is carried up before the head 
and held out of reach, while you can keep the head from you 
with the greatest ease. 

An old horse subject to this habit must be watched closely. 
So long as there is disposition to bite, the horse must not be 
regarded safe. Carelessness and timidity, especially if sub- 
jected to harsh treatment, may be regarded as the primary 
cause. I have known horses to become inveterate biters by 
being whipped once or twice. 

A gentleman informed me lately that a horse he formerly 
owned became terribly vicious by being struck once with 
whip in stall. He was, up to that time, as gentle as any 
horse could be. One of the most vicious horses I ever 
handled of this character, was made so by being whipped 
once severely. He jumped at his owner and would have 
killed him if not driven off with clubs. He had run in his 
stall seven months, and would jump at any one with the fero- 
city of a desperate dog. I made him gentle in less than 
twenty minutes, and he remained of a good character after- 
wards. If the horse is young and thoroughly treated, there 
will be but little trouble in reforming the animal. If old and 
bad there is no hope of success, unless there is unusual nerve, 
and genius to make every move just right, and follow up the 
treatment until the mind relaxes from the purpose, and the 
affections are won. The habit is clearly a mania when once 
thoroughly formed. 

If the horse is allowed to bite without instant and positive 
reproof, after training, no matter how thorough the training, 
the predisposition will be again so strongly developed as to 
make the animal watch for an opportunity to bite. After 
forcing obedience, encourage every act of docility. Be con- 
tinually on the watch for danger and punish energetically for 
aggression, but immediately encourage obedience by kind, 
affectionate treatment. 



Cribbing, so far as we are able to learn or judge, is a habit. 
There may be constitutionally predisposing causes, but it is 
certain, whatever the pretentions of any one, I have never 
been given any proof of ability to break up the habit with 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 61 

medicine. Horses will not crib on anything that is lower 
than the knees. Hence the treatment of tearing away the 
manger and feeding on the floor, or in a basket. Sometimes 
sawing between the teeth will stop the habit. 

There is but one practical plan of breaking up this habit, 
and the success of that will depend very much upon the skill 
displayed in making the adjustment. 

The act of cribbing induces considerable contraction of the 
muscles of the neck, and the larynx is forced down ranch be- 
yond its natural position. This then is the key through which 
we must act. Have the throat-latch of the halter hang on a 
line with the top of the head to the junction of the neck with 
the head. Take a piece of strap, (good firm leather,) about 
five inches in length, and as wide as the throat-latch. Drive 
ten ounce tacks in a row along the center of this strap, three- 
eighths of an inch apart. File the points sharp and of an 
equal length. Lay this strap on the inside of the throat- 
latch where it crosses the larynx, wind a piece of waxed thread 
around both, at the center and ends of the short strap. 
Buckle the throat-latch just long enough so that it will not 
touch the neck when eating or drinking, but will press sharply 
at the least attempt to crib. The result is that at every 
attempt to crib the tacks will stick into the neck, which will 
hurt and disconcert the horse from doing so. 

The point of success will really depend upon the perfection 
and "care with which this is kept adjusted. If there is large 
muscular development on the neck or thick necked, the strap 
must be buckled shorter than when the neck is well cut out, 
as it is termed. Make the reproof severe at first. Then 
keep it so as to touch sharply when a repetition is attempted. 
If the throat-latch is not on a line with the top of the head, 
the tacks will rest against and cut the jaw, a little below the 
junction of the head with the neck. If this is kept on a few 
days or weeks, and then put on carelessly or taken off, there 
is likely to be failure; for if the horse .finds he can crib once 
after this is put on without hurting himself, he will try to 
repeat the effort at all hazards, and will punish himself se- 
verely to do so. But if punished at first and this kept where 
it will sting at the least attempt, it will be likely to cure the 
habit. It is to be kept on from a few weeks to as many 
months, according to the age and persistence of the habit. 



62 CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 

Getting Cast In Stall. 

Drive a staple into a beam, or the floor directly over the 
horse's head, as he stands in the stall, to which attach a strap 
or piece of small rope of sufficient length to extend within 
fifteen inches of the floor. Before retiring for the night, 
attach the other end of the cord or strap to the top of the 
halter, making it just long enough to allow the horse to put 
his nose to the floor. Being now unable to get the top of 
his head to the floor, he is prevented from rolling. 

Putting the Tongue out of the Mouth. 



Have fitted a piece of thin sheet iron, about two and a 
half inches wide, and five inches long, with' the ends made 
rounding, and the edges filed smooth. Drill two small holes 
about half an inch apart, near each edge at the center. Fas- 
ten it through these holes on top of the bit with a piece of 
small annealed wire. Shorten the cheek pieces of the bridle, 
so that the bit is drawn well up in the mouth. This piece of 
iron is now over the tongue, making it impossible for the 
horse to get the tongue over the bit. Keep this on the bit 
for two or three weeks, when the horse will become habit- 
uated to carrying the tongue under the bit and keeping it in 
the mouth. The tongue is sometimes, but not often put out 
under the bit, which indicates a confirmed persistence in the 
habit, and is sometimes impossible to prevent. The following 
treatment will work admirably in most cases, and is the only 
treatment worth explaining : 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 



63 



Get three middling sized bullets and hammer them out to 
about an inch and a half in length. Drill a little hole through 
the end of each. Tie one to the center of the bit by a little 
piece of wire through the joint. Attach the others to the 
bit about an inch from the center, (one on each side,) so as to 
play loosely. (See cut.) 




"When this bit is now in the mouth, these extra arrange- 
ments will so disconcert the horse that in his struggles to get 
them out of the way, he will forget to put the tongue out. 

Jumping Over Fences. 

Many farmers assert that this alone is worth the entire 
expense of the lesson. Certainly if this will prove so valua- 
ble, the instruction on Taming and Changing Habits must be 
invaluable. If a horse or mule, put on a halter that fits well 
to the head — a five ring halter is best. Next find a piece of 
thin leather, (an old boot-leg will do,) about as long as the 
head, and from four to five inches wider than the head is at 
the eyes. Form it same as cut, with 
a string attached at each corner. At- 
tach the upper corners by the strings 
to the halter where the brow-piece is , 
attached to the cheek-piece. Tie the 
cords attached to the lower corners 
back of the jaw (being careful to 
leave just freedom enough to masti- 
cate easily.) Let the ends now pass 
over the throat-latch, and make fast. 
The horse is simply disabled from looking ahead. He can look 




The Jumper. 



64 



CORRECTING BAD HABITS. 



sidewise and back, but cannot look ahead or over the nose 
forward, which will disconcert sufficiently to prevent the 
animal not only jumping, but throwing the fence down. 
If an ox or cow, attach the upper corners to the horns, and 
pass the strings around the neck instead of over the throat- 
latch. I find that cows will not attempt to jump after this 
has been used two or three weeks. 
Horses and mules a much longer time, 
and in some cases must be used for 
months. Of course farmers should keep 
fences in good repair to keep stock from 
being tempted to jump them. It is fal- 
lacy to suppose that means, however 
valuable, can be wholly relied upon for 
success, so long as the cause is permit- 
ted to continue. The leather should be 
at least four inches wider than the head 

Vat the eyes, but fiVe or more will be 
S much better. This will bring the leather 

' outside of the eyes when on, from two 

The Jumper. ^ Q three inches, and around the side of 

the face to prevent working over the nose. There may be 
failure with this, but if properly applied exceptions will be 
rare, as it has proved so far almost infallible. 




Pawing in the Stall. 

Get a piece of chain about ten inches in length — run a 
short strap through one of the end links, and buckle it around 
the foot above the fetlock ; or a piece of light chain can be 
fastened to a small block, and attach it to the foot in the 
same manner. When the horse attempts to paw, the clog or 
chain rattles against the foot, and prevents a repetition of the 
practice. 

Kicking the Stall. 

The same treatment used for preventing pawing may be 
used ; or a piece of plank may be attached across the stall 
over the hips about an inch higher than the hips. At each 
effort to kick now, the hind part will strike this plank and 
prevent ability to do so. If the kicking is with one foot' 
against side of stall, attach some brush to the side of the 
stall, or hang down loosely over the part kicked at. 



correcting bad habits. 65 

Pulling too Hard on Bit, Turning Around while 
Driving, or Eunning Back, were sufficiently explained in 
the article on Running Away; which, with the illustration 
given in teaching, will give sufficient knowledge of the 
treatment necessary for these and other habits not specially 
mentioned. 

Kicking Cows. 

Put on the war bridle, (small loop,) and pull a few times, 
right and left, then go back gently and attempt to milk. On 
the least resistance, hold with the bridle and punish sharply, 
so repeating as may be necessary until the cow learns to 
stand quietly and becomes afraid to kick. Effectual in every 
instance. 

Of course due attention must be given to the condition of 
the animal. Sometimes the teats are sore, and the pain 
caused by milking is very severe. Scolding, kicking, or 
pounding with the stool should not be permitted, as it only 
increases the mischief it is desired to avert. One or two 
lessons have proved effectual in every instance used. 

The War Bridle. 




This is simply a fine threaded cotton cord of the best ma- 
terial, twisted hard, of about three-eighths of an inch in diam- 
eter, and twelve or fourteen feet long. Tie each end into a 
hard knot, just as you would do to prevent its raveling, with 
the difference of putting the end through the tie twice. Then 
pull down tight and hard close to the end. Now tie another 
knot about twelve inches from the end, but before drawing it 
tight, put the end through. (See cut.) This will make a loop 
that will not slip or draw through. The great simplicity of this 
form of knot, and the ease with which it can be untied, gives 
it preference to me over all other forms of knot I have ever 
used, and is, in my judgment, the best form of knot, all 



66 APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION. 

things considered, to be recommended for general use. The 
peculiar power given to this means of control upon the mouth 
is liable to cause accident, when used upon a quick, sensitive 
horse or green colt, with too much energy in such a manner 
as to bring the restraint directly back upon the mouth, which 
would in many cases cause the horse to rear up and possibly 
fall over backward upon the head. Of course a horse is lia- 
ble to get killed by such an accident, and it must and should 
be guarded against. This loop should be just large enough 
to go over the lower jaw, back of the bridle teeth of the 
horse it is intended to be used upon. The other end can 
now be formed into another loop in the same manner, with 
the difference of being large enough to go over the head and 
fit tightly around the neck near the shoulder. 

Applying the "War Bridle. 

There are two ways of applying and using the war bridle : 
1st. While standing forward of the shoulders on the near 
side of the horse, throw the small loop over the neck and 
take in the left hand. Then with the right put the large 
loop through from the top side. Now pass the left hand for- 
ward to the mouth, adroitly spreading the loop in the same 
position over the thumb, second, third and fourth fingers, at 
the same time the right hand is to be passed under the neck, 
around the head, upon the nose, which is to be grasped gently 
but firmly, while the loop is put over the jaw back of the 
bridle teeth with the left. 

By standing near the shoulder and giving a sharp pull, 
you will find the horse will come to you easily, by repeating 
which the horse will soon learn to follow. This is a powerful 
means of controlling by the head ; is particularly valuable in 
teaching to lead, controlling the head, for forcing, in bridling, 
harnessing, grooming, or even in shoeing, if simply a little 
irritable. Drawing down tightly and tying into a half hitch, 
will sometimes have a powerful effect. It is not, however, to 
be regarded as an infallible means, but is a really good, sim- 
ple means of restraint, and must be used with care. "When 
the horse is of a stubborn, positive character, especially if 
unbroke, it will be found that there will not always be suffi- 
cient power to force obedience with it, though in the majority 
of cases it will be found to produce very fine results. 



APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION. 67 

2d. Take the large loop between both hands, and while 
standing directly in front of the horse, slide it over his head 
well back upon the neck, about where the collar rests. The 
loop should be made in size to fit tightlj around this part of 
the neck. Now put the other end down between the loop 
and neck. Pat the loop this forms into his mouth back of 
the bridle teeth, then draw down upon the end until the slack 
is taken up. This method of using the war bridle, enables 
more power sidewise than the first, but does not like the first 
give power to pull ahead. 

Four Ring Bit. 

This means of controlling the mouth and head gives great 
power. The knowledge of its use alone, if properly applied, 
is worth the expense of the lesson and book. 

Get a short snafne bit — steel is best ; heat one of the rings 
and slip over it two inch and a half rings — common malleable 
rings found in harness shops will do — then bend the ring into 
form. You have now a common snafne bit, with two rings 

on the mouthpiece. (See 
cut.) Buckle into a com- 
mon bridle. Get made 
next two straps, one two 
feet in length and three-quarters of an inch wide, made like a 
hame strap ; the other about three feet in length, narrower 
and lighter. Eun the short strap through both rings and 
buckle double, in the form of a nose-piece, buckling just long 
enough to fit around the nose closely. Bring the long strap 
around the short one at the center, pass up and through a 
little loop left in the bridle between the ears and buckle, just 
short enough to let the nose-piece come straight across the 
nose. It will now be found by standing in front of the horse, 
putting both thumbs through the rings and giving a little jerk 
down and backwards, that the head will be thrown up and 
back easily. The stop across the nose acting as the fulcrum 
when the rings on the end of the bit are pulled upon, the two 
inside rings slide towards the center, forcing the joint upwards 
against the roof of the mouth, which causes so much pain that 
the horse will not try to resist after being pulled upon a few 
times. By tying the end of a small cord around the near ring 
of the bit, then pass the other end behind the jaw through the 



68 APPLIANCES FOR SUBJECTION. 

other ring, then over the neck and down between the cord 
and jaw, (let the part over the neck be set well back,) — now, 
by pulling sidewise upon the cord, the horse will be found to 
yield very promptly to its restraint. As a driving bit this is 
very powerful. After being pulled upon a few times, there 
are but few horses that will try to resist it. It overcomes 
pulling on one rein or throwing the nose upon the breast. 
The effect of this bit on some horses is very great. It does 
not cut or make the mouth sore like other bits, and would be 
specially valuable on horses that pull hard and get the mouth 
sore, as it does not touch the lower jaw, yet forces perfect 
submission. 

Foot Strap. 

Any piece of strap 
or rope of about twelve 
or fourteen feet in 
length, simply tied 
around the fore foot in 
most any manner, will 
- answer on an emer- 
gency. But simply 
tying or knotting 
around the foot is ob- 
jectionable on account 
of the danger of chaf- 
ing and preventing cir- 
culation, or possibly 
untying at some critical moment. When necessary to use a 
foot-strap much, it should be specially adapted for the purpose 
by making as follows : Have a smooth strap made, about 
twelve inches long and an inch wide, with a buckle on one 
end and buckle holes punched in the other. About one inch 
from the buckle should be fitted, under the lap passing around 
the buckle, a ring or D stitched in nicely. The edges of this 
strap should be dressed down smooth ; or much better, cover 
the part coming in contact with the foot with a piece of 
soft leather. This strap is intended to buckle around the foot 
below the fetlock. Into the ring fasten the end of a strap 
or web fourteen feet long and an inch and a half wide. 

Buckle the short strap around the near fore foot below the 
fetlock, then pass the long strap over the belly-band on the 




TRAINING IN THE TROT. 69 

near side back to the wagon, and hold as a rein. This gives 
control of the foot at will, by which the horse can be disabled 
and disconcerted instantly, while driving. If the horse 
attempts to kick, simply pulling the foot up throws him off his 
balance. He can neither kick or run back, and if He attempts 
to go ahead it must be on three legs, in a manner that makes 
resistance quite limited. It is especially valuable when train- 
ing colts to drive, by neutralizing the animal's power to resist 
should he become frightened and attempt to kick or back. 
The foot-strap is also valuable as a means of enabling control 
of horses that will not submit to being rode, and is very 
effective. 

Trotting. 

A good walking gait should be the foundation of the train- 
ing. Continue this walking lesson until the colt is thoroughly 
gentle and submissive, and has learned to walk with energy. 
Now gradually let out on a moderate trot, holding up often, 
gradually letting out a little faster, as the strength and educa- 
tion will bear, but never so as to cause fatigue. Those 
muscles that are brought most into use are most largely devel- 
oped, and bear in mind also that a colt has neither the strength 
or bottom of an old horse, to bear either much exertion, or to 
be pushed in his gait, and cannot at once act the part of a fast 
going, well trained horse. 

Let this jogging be continued, gradually as there is ambi- 
tion and the road is smooth and descending ; but let out only 
so fast, or to the point that the gait is held even and square ; 
and at first should be pushed only a short distance, after which 
pull back to a walk and speak encouragingly. This is to be 
repeated, gradually going a little faster, but never to the point 
of exhaustion, always encouraging with a kind word or two 
after doing well. I would here caution against hitching the 
colt to a heavy wagon or sulky. The weight must be reduced 
as much as possible, and the better to facilitate the object, 
always let the bursts of speed be on a smooth, slightly descend- 
ing piece of road. By this precaution you will remove all 
drag, and the horse is able to use all his powers to the best 
possible advantage. 

This careful driving and gradually teaching the animal to 
push forward when commanded is to be continued, but how- 



70 TRAINING IN THE TROT. 

ever promising, the risk should not be hazarded of trotting a 
race, or a long distance, before the system is thoroughly 
matured and hardened to bear prolonged exertion. The gait 
of many fine trotters is ruined by too much haste and harsh- 
ness in training. A horse has not his growth until five years 
old, and should not be put to severe work before six or seven 
years old. It is proved by experience that much greater age 
is necessary to attain great speed. Flora Temple made her 
fastest time of two minutes nineteen and three-quarter 
seconds, when she was fifteen years old, at Kalamazoo. 
Dexter is constantly increasing his speed, we are informed, by 
age and practice ; and so it will be found with all the best 
trotters. They were grown into great speed by careful, per- 
severing work, by which the system is highly developed, the 
muscles are strengthened and hardened, and useless foul matter 
that would obstruct the free action of the heart and lungs, and 
increase the weight, is removed. 

Should the horse break when pushed in his gait, he should 
not be pulled up too suddenly, which would slacken his speed. 
Rather encourage him to go faster, and by gently and firmly 
pulling right and left bring him to the trot. The horse has 
now no disposition to resist control, and he must be taught to 
rely upon with confidence, as well as yield submission to the 
control and restraint of the bit. 



To Force on tlie Trot. 

There are many promising steppers that will break and run, 
and will not come down to work again, when much excited ; 
and unless there is power to prevent such a habit and force on 
the trot, the horse cannot be relied upon in a race, at perhaps 
the very instant pushing is necessary. There is not power to 
do this by the bit, and consequently horses that step freely in 
private become foolish and unreliable when urged in companj 
with other horses. There is but one way of overcoming this 
trouble, and that is by the use of the following means, the 
conception of which has been original with myself, and 
brought to the notice of trainers by me for several years, and 
has proved in skillful hands a valuable adjunct, to the end of 
making flighty, nervous horses come down to fast, reliable 
going. 




TRAINING THE TROTTER. 71 

Have made first four straps 
long enough to go around 
the hind legs above the 
hocks, and from three quar- 
ters to an inch wide. Obtain 
next two D's or rings, in 
size to admit two each of 
these straps to be run 
through. Step in front of 
each hind leg and buckle 
these straps around the leg, 

. r . , , °' Cure for Breaking. 

one above and one below 

the gambrel, the ring or D in front, bringing the straps to an 
acute angle. Put on the head a light well-fitting halter. 
Attach a strap to this, which must be in part double to regu- 
late the angle, and must be long enough to extend from the 
head to the back edge of the girt. On the end is to be 
attached a small, nice, easy running pulley, fitted to run a 
half-inch cord. The strap is to pass back from the halter, 
between the legs, over the belly-band, just back of which 
must come this pulley. Take next a piece of firm, hard cotton 
or hemp cord, from three-eighths to half an inch in size. Run 
it through the pulley to the center, and tie the ends into the 
D's or rings attached to the hind legs ; the whole to be so 
regulated in length that the horse can walk or trot easily. 
This is similar to the kicking straps described on page 45. 
(See cut.) One leg going forward to the degree that the op- 
posite one goes back, brings no restraint on the cord or head, 
but the instant both feet go back as in the act of running, 
the cord is shortened, the head is drawn back, and the horse 
is taught that he is helpless. He soon learns this and 
becomes afraid to break, though subjected to any reasonable 
excitement. With this "rig" on, move the horse on a walk 
until accustomed to it, which will usually require but a very 
short time. Then let out on a moderate trot, and when 
thoroughly accustomed to it pushing to a fast gait. This 
must be repeated. In fact this arrangement should be kept 
on until the horse is made reliable. Should be driven and 
thoroughly practiced with other horses, and excitement made 
as if in a race. Of course all this requires ingenuity, patience 
and care. 

This will work best on some horses by attaching to the 



72 



SUGGESTIONS ON BREEDING. 



collar, or around the neck. The restraint is simply more posi- 
tive b} r this change. 

One gentleman in Ohio, two years since, came one hundred 
and fifty miles to get this treatment of me, and in three 
months afterwards he informed me that he had since sold a 
mare for fifteen hundred dollars which he had bought for three 
hundred and seventy-five dollars. She would break when in 
the least excited, and could be made nothing of, though a fast 
stepper. He bought her, made the experiment, and in less 
than a month had her down fine, and could hold her under the 
whip regardless of yelling and the excitement of competing 
horses. This gentleman informed me he then had a horse 
that promised equally good results by this treatment. 



One of the primary points 
of success is to start right, 
and in no respect is this more 
essential than in breeding. 
The law of like producing 
like is inexorable; conse- 
quently it is seen that to 
raise good horses, good horses 
must be bred from. Many 
farmers who are otherwise 
keenly alive to their interest, 
are singularly thoughtless and 
imprudent in this. If a mare 
is broken down and unfit for 
labor, no matter how coarse, 
badly formed, or what the 
evidence of constitutional un- 
soundness, she is reserved to breed from. Again the cheapest 
horse, no matter how coarse if sleek and fat, is selected and 
employed to breed from. The most ignorant farmer is particu- 
lar to select the largest and soundest potatoes, the cleanest 
wheat and oats, for seed, etc. He has learned this is true 
economy. Yet there seems to be the most utter disregard of 
this law of prudence in the breeding of horses and farm stock 
in general. During my long experience before the public, I 
have endeavored to impress upon farmers, when I could, that 
this sort of economy is like paying a quarter for a chicken, 
and giving a dollar to have it taken home. 




Intelligent and Gentle. 



HINTS ON BREEDING. 



73 




Dull and Treacherous. 



It costs just as 

much to raise a poor, 

coarse blooded colt, as 

a iine blooded one. 

The cost of feeding 

and care is really the 

same, the only differ- 
ence in cost being in 

that of the use of the 

horse. The first will 

possibly sell when five 

years old and trained 

to harness, for from a 

hundred to a hundred 

and fifty dollars. The 

other is worth from 

three hundred to a 

thousand, and possibly more. The first will scarcely sell for 

the cost of feeding and care. The second ensures a large 

profit, and this for a little additional first cost. And then the 

satisfaction of having fine valuable animals, that can go along 

if necessary, able 
to do any kind of 
work easily, and 
saleable for a larg- 
er price, is a source 
of no ordinary 
pleasure and en- 
couragement, if 
from no other feel- 
ing than that of 
contributing so 
largely to increas- 
ed economy and 
wealth. The fact 
is, breeding from 

Naturally Sensitive and Shy. poor? unsound 

horses is so much a detriment, that it would be a damage to 
any one to be compelled to breed from such stock, if given 
for the purpose. If you wish to raise horses, select good sized, 
well-formed, sound, fine blooded, good stepping and good 
colored mares, even though at an extra cost. The stallion 




74 HINTS ON BREEDING. 

should be free from all taint of hereditary disease. Spavin, 
ringbone, splints, poll evil, heaves, broken wind, contraction 
of the feet, weak eyes or blindness, are more or less constitu- 
tional; consequently there will be predisposition to such. 
Strong characteristics and constitutional vigor should be un- 
doubted. This is of course in a general sense. 

To be successful in breeding any particular variety of 
horses requires first decision as to the purpose for which in- 
tended. To be particular requires first, intention as to purpose 
for which intended. If heavy draft horses, evenly trotting 
roadsters, or ponies are required, select both dam and sire with 
special reference to the kind of stock wanted. If the mare is 
light boned or defective, select a heavier boned horse, one that 
possesses the contrast of greater strength or better points in 
that respect. But to ensure much certainty of what you would 
have, the mare and horse should be as nearly the type desired 
as possible, though not related. I would be very particular 
about disposition and intelligence. The head should be broad 
between the eyes, muzzle small, short or middling short from 
eyes to ears. The smaller and rounder the eyes, the more 
positive will be the temper. (See cuts.) To have a horse 
sensitive, intelligent, courageous, and naturally docile, there 
must be large brain, the eye must be large, standing well out, 
and mild in expression. 

Of course it is understood that bad treatment will spoil 

THE BEST TEMPERED HORSES, AND GOOD TREATMENT WILL 
MAKE GOOD SAFE ANIMALS OF THE WORST. 

Tlie Mare. 

The mare is said to go with foal eleven months or three 
hundred days; but it is not uncommon for mares to have 
fully developed foals in much less time, and in many instances 
mares have been known to go four or five weeks beyond this 
time. Time should be so arranged in putting mares, that the 
colts will come at a time when there is some grass, as the 
mare will do better not to be confined to dry feed. The 
virgin mare, or one that has not had a colt, for one season, 
must be put when she is found in season. The mare that 
has had a colt will be found in season, and should be put on 
the eighth or ninth day after foaling; some prefer the eighth, 
others the eleventh. Good judges claim that it is dangerous 
to go beyond the tenth, as the mare is apt to come off her 



HINTS ON BREEDING. 75 

lieat soon after, and if allowed to go to a later period, the 
sucking of the colt is likely to reduce the mare too much to 
allow conception to take place, and thus a year's service of 
the breeder is lost. 

After putting a mare the days for trial are the ninth after 
service, the seventh after this, the fifth after this again. 
Some commence again, commencing with the ninth day and 
follow up as before, making forty-two days. Twenty-one 
days being the period elapsing between a mare's going out of 
heat, and coming in again, making her periodical term thirty 
days. Twenty-one days is claimed to be sufficient to prove 
a mare. 

After conception, the mare, if allowed to go free, will stand 
by a fence or tree in a partially dormant position until after 
the heat passes off. If at this time she is overworked or 
frightened, she will be likely to cast the conception, and will 
require to be served again. 

After the mare has been a few weeks w r ith foal, moderate 
work will not only do no injury, but will be of service to her, 
but at no time when she is with foal must she be placed in a 
situation where she will be at all likely to receive severe 
jolts, kicks, or any other violence. Another great preventive 
to conception, is turning mares out with string proud or badly 
castrated horses, as they are a cause of positive annoyance to 
them, and greatly endanger the certainty of conception. 

A fine mare was put to a horse, she was proved on the 
regular trial day, and showed all the signs of conception. 
Three weeks after being served she stood quietly by a fence, 
and the owner coming up, thinking her sick, started her sud- 
denly. The fright so shocked her nervous system that she 
sickened, lay down and cast the embryo. Another in the 
same neighborhood aborted from a horse teasing her. 

A gentleman put a mare that had bred, several colts, and 
after being served to the horse she was allowed to run in a 
pasture adjoining one in which a string proud horse was kept. 
She was teased by him, and the consequence was she had no 
colts for two years. The cause of mischief was finally mis- 
trusted, the mare w r as put in another field away from the 
horse, and she did not fail to breed afterwards. 

It is a well-known fact also, that if a mare is near food 
she likes, and is denied being given some of it, there is dan- 
ger of abortion being produced. I might enumerate a great 
many cases illustrative of the fact that causes in themselves 



76 HINTS ON BREEDING. 

slight may produce abortion. Much care is necessary. Per- 
sons owning mares that have failed to conceive, should be 
unusually cautious, as mares having aborted once, are pre- 
disposed to do so sometimes from the most trifling causes. 

It is a noticeable fact, also, that subjecting the mare to 
abuse, or great fear from any cause, affects the character of 
the colt powerfully. 

Calling the attention of a class to these causes of mischief, 
one of the gentlemen corroborated my assertions by making 
the following statement : He and a neighboring farmer owned 
two cows. His was extremely wild and intractable ; the 
other was very gentle. The informant said he treated his 
cow with care and kindness. The man owning the gentle 
cow was in the habit of making his dog drive her up to milk, 
the dog causing her to run and be much excited. The cows 
had fine bull calves. The owner of the wild cow bought the 
calf of the other, and in time broke them to w r ork, and he 
said that the barking of a dog or any noise, would make the 
steer he bought act wild and foolish ; that he was naturally 
wild and untamable, while the other, which he raised himself, 
from the wildest animal, was as gentle as any steer. 

I could refer to many interesting instances of colts show- 
ing the marked effects of abuse and excitement on the mother. 
This is not to be wondered at, since it is seen that the brain 
controls and regulates the action of the developing brain and 
nervous system of the foetus or colt. Such causes should be 
carefully guarded against. 

A stallion of a known vicious character, should not be 
bred from. The horse should be in vigorous health, and this 
implies that he has been subjected to moderate but regular 
exercise, during the season. A horse, however, that is driven 
and hurried from place to place, over-heated perhaps, and 
made to cover from three to seven mares, should be regarded 
as unsafe. They are not sure, and the progeny of such are 
liable to lack vitality. 

After the colt comes, the mare should be allowed to stand 
idle for three or four weeks, until she gets her milk and has 
time to regain her strength ; and the foal also requires time 
to acquire strength. It is injurious for the colt to run with 
the dam on hard roads, to an extent at least that would strain 
or exhaust. Above all other times in the life of the horse, 
at this period, and during the first winter, bad treatment is 



HINTS ON BREEDING. 77 

most injurious. The mare and colt should be well fed, and 
protected from storms. The theory of working a mare hard, 
and half starving the colt, is the poorest kind of economy, 
since the mare needs generous feed and rest, to renew her 
strength and make her milk, by which of course the colt is 
nourished and made to grow. When size and strength will 
indicate that it is time to wean, which is usually in five or 
six months, put the colt in a quiet pasture, away from the 
mare, where it should be closely looked after. A little oats, 
(better if bruised,) should be given daily. 

The conclusion of careful breeders is, that it is much better 
for a colt to run in pasture, than to be confined in a stable. 
If the colt is intended for farm use, castration may be per- 
formed when six months old ; if, however, the withers are 
light, it should be postponed until the head and neck fills up 
to the degree required, and this may require from one to two 
years, or even more. If the head is large and heavy, early 
castration is advisable. Colts should be generously fed, and 
protected from the inclemency of the weather in winter. 
They should be treated gently. May be broken early to 
harness, if treated gently and with care. This, however, is 
hazardous, as there is danger of over-driving young colts if 
they are driven at all. Many seem to take pride in trials to 
which they subject two or three years old colts. It is not what 
they can do, but what they ought to be required to do. 

To become well posted on this interesting subject, the 
reader should get the works of different authors. A little 
money employed for books on this as well as kindred subjects, 
will be found to be wisely used, but they should be read care- 
fully. The limit of my space, even if more competent to 
develop this subject, will not admit of more than a few gen- 
eral remarks. 

Feeding. 

Hay, corn fodder, oats and corn, constitute the principal 
food of horses in this country. Hay and oats in the North- 
ern States, fodder and corn in the South. The food should 
be in quality and quantity to impart strength, vitality and 
elasticity, and this requires some discrimination and care, as 
the food should be harmonized both to the condition, and the 
severity of the labor to which the horse is subjected. As a 
rule, the stomach should not be distended with food when 



78 HINTS ON FEEDING. 

prolonged, energetic effort is desired, as the heart and 
lungs would thereby be much impeded in their action, and 
congestion and rupturing of or enlarging of the air cells of 
the lungs may result. This is to be especially guarded 
against in the feeding of hay. Greedy eaters can and will 
gorge themselves by eating so much hay as to be unfit for 
active labor, and is usually shown to result in heaves or 
broken wind. Heaves are always found in the teamsters' or 
carters' stables, where there is no care in feeding. This dis- 
ease is always found among horses of the above class, but 
never found among racing horses, from the fact that the 
utmost prudence and care is used in selecting the food, and 
feeding in smaller quantities, or in adapting the food more 
perfectly to the wants of the system. 

It has been demonstrated beyond doubt that the reason 
horses improve so much in wind by eating prairie hay is, that 
it is so coarse that horses cannot eat it fast enough to over- 
load the stomach. The quantity of hay should be carefully 
regulated, and never as much given as the horse will eat if 
at all voracious. The majority of owners pack a large rack 
full, allowing either liberty to eat too much, or making it 
unpalatable and unhealthy, by being breathed upon. From 
eight to ten pounds is about the average quantity for an ordi- 
nary roadster to be allowed in twenty-four hours, more or 
less, according to size, the kind of work, and the quantity of 
grain given. Dusty or mouldy hay should not be fed, as it 
is liable to produce various forms of disease. 

All food should be clean, and in. quality perfect. Hay is 
most perfect when it is about a year old. Horses would perhaps 
prefer earlier, but it is neither so wholesome nor so nutritious, 
and may purge. When it is a year old it should retain much 
of its green color and agreeable smell.* The blades of corn 
pulled and cured in the summer are unquestionably much 
better than hay. I should certainly prefer this kind of fodder 
to any kind of hay, for fine horses. It is strange that it is 
not prized more highly in the North. 

Oats make more muscle than corn. Corn makes fat and 
warmth. Hence, the colder the weather, the more corn may 
be given, and the harder the work, the more oats. Oats 
should be a year old, heavy, dry and sweet. New oats will 

* Note 1.— In packing or stacking hay, salt should be slightly sprinkled 
through it so as to destroy insects. It also aids in preserving it bright, and 
makes it more palatable and healthy for the horse. 



HINTS ON FEEDING. 79 

weigh from ten to fifteen per cent, more than old ones ; but 
the difference is principally water. New oats are said to be 
more difficult to digest, and when in considerable quantity are 
apt to cause flatulency and derangement of the stomach and 
bowels. The same may be said of corn. If not sound and 
dry, it may be regarded even much more dangerous than oats, 
and should not be fed. Doing so will be at the hazard of the 
consequences above mentioned. 

The quantity of oats given daily may vary from eight to 
sixteen quarts. If the horse is large, and the work is severe, 
a little more may be given. Corn should be fed in the ear, 
and like oats must be regulated in quantity to the size and 
labor of the animal ; from five to twelve good sized ears are a 
feed. I give a larger proportion of feed at night, and less in 
the morning and noon. There is ample time for digestion 
during the night. ■ There is not during the day, if the labor is 
severe. Experience proves that some mildly cooling laxa- 
tive food should be occasionally given. A bran mash, made 
by pouring boiling water on eight or ten quarts of wheat 
bran, covered over until cool and fed at night, from once to 
three times a week, is the finest and best. 

Carrots are a good laxative and alterative before frost, but 
are too cold and constipating during cold weather. They 
may be fed in October, November and December, but in the 
Northern States not later. (I am governed by the judgment 
of one of the best veterinary surgeons in the United States, 
based upon careful and critical observation of effects on a 
large number of horses, on this point.) I feed. Irish potatoes, 
from one to three quarts, with the usual quantity of grain, 
from two to three or four times a week, and would recom- 
mend their use. Think their value cannot be over-estimated. 
Feeding a small quantity of roots and giving bran mashes, 
keeps the bowels open and the system in a uniform, healthy 
condition. Without them constipation is probable, and this 
is one of the primary causes of diarrhoea, colic, or inflamma- 
tion of the bowels. If it is desired to make a horse fat in a 
short time, feed corn meal and shorts, with cut straw, to 
which add a pint of cheap molasses. Nothing like this for 
recruiting and filling up a horse that is out of sorts or poor. 
If the horse eats too fast, put a few round stones in the feed 
box. He must now pick the food from among the stones, 
and thus he is compelled to eat slowly. 



80 HINTS ON WATERING. 

If the horse is exhausted, or when sufficient time cannot 
be allowed for him to eat and partially digest a full meal, he 
may be greatly refreshed by a draught of warm gruel, or in 
summer, of cold water containing a small quantity of meal. 
To give some idea of the routine of feeding and watering 
when great care is necessary, I include the system of feeding 
and watering Mr. Bonner's famous trotting horse, Dexter. 

" At six every morning, Dexter has all the water he wants, 
and two quarts of oats. After eating, he is 'walked' for half 
an hour or more, then cleaned off, and at nine has two quarts 
more of oats. If no drive is on the card for afternoon, he is 
given a half to three-quarters of an hour of gentle exercise. 
At one o'clock he has oats again, as before, limited to two 
quarts. 

"From three to four, he is driven twelve to fifteen miles; 
after which he is cleaned off and rubbed thoroughly dry. 

"He has a bare swallow of water on returning from the 
drive, but is allowed free access to his only feed of hay, of 
which he consumes from five to six pounds. 

"If the drive has been a particularly sharp one, he is 
treated as soon as he gets in, to a quart or two of oat meal 
gruel ; and when thoroughly cooled, has half a pail of water 
and three quarts of oats, with two quarts of bran moistened 
with hot water. 

" Before any specially hard day's work or trial of his 
speed, his allowance of water is still more reduced." 

Watering. 

If a large quantity of cold water is taken into the stomach 
while the system is agitated and sensitive, by the circulation 
being so increased as to open the pores of the skin freely, it 
is liable to so chill the stomach as to derange the circulation 
and close the pores of the skin, and thus excite some one of 
the common alimentary derangements of colic or inflamma- 
tion of the bowels. Hard water, especially cold well water, 
is more liable to cause mischief in this way than soft water. 
Hard water will derange some horses, so much as to show an 
almost immediate effect of causing the hair to look rough or 
stare, the appetite deranged, if not indeed preceded by colic 
or inflammation of the bowels ; also, horses that are raised 
and worked in the country, where the water is strongly impreg- 
nated with lime, are troubled a good deal with intestinal cal- 



HINTS ON WATERING. 81 

culi, i. e., stone in the bladder. Hence soft water should be 
given, if convenient ; and if well water, especially while 
warm, it should either have the chill taken off or be given 
very sparingly. 

The best time to water is about half an hour before feed- 
ing. While driving, the rule should be little and often. 
None, or only a swallow or two, should be given at the close of 
a drive, until cool. If very warm, the horse should be walked 
moderately where there is not a current of air to strike him, 
from ten to thirty minutes, as may be found necessary. If, 
then, any danger is apprehended, the chill should be taken off 
the water if very cold and given sparingly a few swallows at 
a time. The common custom is to give about a half bucket 
of water. The safest course would be to give less and repeat. 
The rule should be, for ordinary use, to give small quantities 
often during the day, and the animal to pursue his journey or 
labor immediately after. If allowed to stand, the system may 
be chilled. The absorbents are closed, which is the common 
cause of Laminitis or Founder, although this disease may 
not develop itself until twelve or twenty -four hours afterwards, 
and any cause which will chill the system — either cold winds 
or cold water — while the animal is warn", will be almost sure 
to produce the above disease. 
4* 



TEACHING TRICKS. 



Do not hurry a horse too fast in his training. If you under- 
take to teach too much, or too fast in the start, or indeed at 
any time, you only confuse or discourage. Do only so much 
as the horse can comprehend, and make daily progress. 

Teaching to Follow. 

If it is desired to simply teach the horse to follow promptly 
with halter or bridle on, apply the war bridle, (small loop;) 
when he comes round promptly, stand off a short distance 
and say, "Come here, sir." If he does not come to you, 
give a sharp pull, gradually changing positions and going a 
little farther. If he comes to you promptly, caress him; if 
not, pull sharply, repeating in this way until you can make 
him come to you promptly, in any direction, at the word. 

To Make Follow wltli the Wliip. 

The simplest and easiest way of doing this, is to work up 
sharply with the war bridle, and when the horse comes to you 
promptly, take a short, blunt whip, step up to the shoulder, 
and while holding the bridle loosely in the left hand, pass the 
whip gently over the shoulder, and tap lightly with the end 
on the off side of the head. This will annoy the horse and 
cause him to move the head a little from it, toward you ; 
instantly stop and caress, then repeat the tapping again ; 
should he attempt to run from you, hold him by the bridle. 
Repeat in this way until the horse will step toward you 
promptly. Then touch the whip over the hips and say, 
"Come, sir." If he comes up to you, or shows the least dis- 
position to do so, caress, and so continue until he will come 
up promptly. Now step a little sidewise and ahead and say, 



REACHING TRI- 83 

I : he should step after you, caress, if not, 

touch the lash over the hips. In a short time the horse will 

learn I >u, and follow promptly. When he will do 

-■and him in a corner of the room, stand a little in front 

of him and touch him lightly with the whip on the fore-legs 

At the least intimation of com- 

Then repeat, touching with the whip. 

"ittle, stop and caress, and in this way 

'. ill come to you promptly. Thru get a little 

farther from him and repeat in the same manner until he will 

learn to hurry up to you, to g>-t away from the whip. Should 

It away, put on the bridle, and* hold the end in the left 

hand. You can now hold him by the bridle when he 

attempts to run, until he finds he cannot get away, and will 

ip promptly. 

Thu raid be made very thorough before there is 

an attempt to take the I then in a small 
yard. If this is not convenient, put on tie' bridle, having 
>rd, and hold in the left hand 1 

If the h 9 bad character, the following method 

may be used: Turn th< im or small yard well 

ed. Provii _ od bow whip. The 

horse will feel uneasy and look around at yon, and then per- 
haps for some place by which to escape. "Walk up to him, 
and as he runs into a corner apply the lash sharply under his 
Hanks, following him up, making the whip sting keenly around 
the hind legs. When he stops or turns his head toward you, 
stop instantly, reach out the hand, at the same time approach- 
ing gently. Should he run or turn around to kick, whip 
instantly as before, and so continue until you can approach 
and caress the head and neck a little. Then say, "Come, 
air," at the same time touching the whip lightly over the 
lhps. If he comes, or shows the least disposition to do so, 
caress and speak encouragingly. If he runs, whip as before, 
and so repeat until the horse will come up promptly when 
touched by the whip. 

As the object is to make the horse honest in following, it 

is necessary to make him feel that you whip him j only for 

nice, encouraging and flattering for every intimation of 

obedience, until he realizes his safety from the whip to be in 

coming to you. 



84 TEACHING TRICKS. 



To Lie Down. 



Tie the bridle reins into a knot back of the neck. Throw 
your strap over the back, under the body, and tie to the near 
foot, below the fetlock. Now pass the right hand well over 
the back and take a short hold of the strap. Cause the horse 
to step toward you and pull the foot up. Then pass the left 
hand around the reins and pull back and down upon them in 
such a manner as to turn the head a little to the off-side, at 
the same time pulling down steadily but firmly on the strap 
over the back with the right hand. As the horse goes down, 
gradually pull the near rein, so as to bring the head to the 
left, at the same time pressing down and from you firmly with 
the right, until the horse will lie down. Pass the end of the 
strap now through the ring of the bit and draw through 
gently, step over the neck, and as the horse attempts to get 
up, pull him back, until he lies quiet. Eub and caress him, 
and after lying a few minutes, say, "Get up, sir." Repeat 
in this way for a few times until the horse will lie down 
readily. Then while holding him on or near the knee with 
the strap, hit him on the shin of the other with a little whip, 
until he will bring it under and lie down. After awhile he 
can be made to come on his knees and lie down by simply 
pulling the head down a little and hitting the shins with the 
whip, at the same time saying, "Lie down, sir," repeating 
until the horse will lie down to the motion of the whip. 
This is about the easiest and most practical way of teaching 
a horse to lie down. 

To Sit Up. 

When the horse will lie down promptly, put on him a 
common collar, and while being down take two pieces of rope, 
or anything suitable, about ten feet each in length. Tie the 
ends around the hind feet, carry them forward between the 
fore legs and bring them once around the collar. Now step 
on his tail, take the bridle reins in the right hand, while you 
hold the ends of the ropes firmly in the left. Give a little 
jerk on the reins and say, "Get up, sir." When the horse 
throws out the forward feet and springs to raise himself on 
the hind feet, he finds himself unable to complete the effort ; 
on account of the hind feet being tied forward under him, 
and so he brings himself in a sitting position. Instantly step 



TEACHING TRICKS. 85 

forward, holding the ropes firmly, rub and caress the head 
and neck a little for a few seconds, then as you see the effort 
to keep up becoming tiresome, let loose and say, "Get up, 
sir." By repeating in this way a few times the horse will 
soon learn to sit up when commanded without being tied. 

To Make a Bow, 

Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and 
fore-finger, stand before, but a little to the left, of your horse, 
and prick him on the breast lightly. This produces the sens- 
ation of a fly biting, to relieve which he will bring down his 
head, which you will accept as yes, and reward for by caress- 
ing and feeding as before. Then repeat, and so continue until 
he will bring his head down the moment he sees the least 
motion of the hand toward his breast, or you can substitute 
some signal which he will understand readily. 



To Say No. 

Stand near the left shoulder, holding the pin in your hand, 
with which prick him lightly on the withers, which will cause 
him to shake his head. You then caress as before, and so 
repeating, until he will shake his head at the least indication 
of touching him with the pin ; you can train your horse so 
nicely in this way in a short time as to cause him to shake 
his head or bow by merely turning the hand a little, or 
moving it slightly toward him. 

To Kiss You. 

Teach him first to take a piece of apple out of your hand. 
Then gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, at each 
repetition, until you require him to take it from your mouth, 
holding it with the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss 
you. He wall soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth ; 
first to get the apple, but finally, because commanded to do 
so. Simply repeat until the horse understands the trick 
thoroughly. 



86 TEACHING TKICKS. 



Teaching a Horse to Dance. 

Put, on the war bridle ; hold the cord some four or five 
feet from the horse's head, and with a whalebone whip tap 
him on the shin or ankle until he lifts his foot, then caress 
him, and do the same with the other, making him raise first 
one foot, then the other, then stop and caress. Next, make 
him raise them several times, until he moves his whole body 
by the motion of the whip to the time of music. Caress and 
encourage frequently. 

Teaching a Horse to "Waltz. 

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his 
chest and fasten the bridle-reins to it, the left rein much the 
tightest, bringing his head well round to the left side. Then 
make him move forward, when he follows his head, and every 
time as he is turning his head from you give him a sharp cut 
with the whip, which will make him jump round quickly until 
his head comes around to you again. Then you should caress 
and encourage him by talking kindly, patting and feeding him. 
He will then be slower to move his head from you, but you 
must continue with the whip every time the horse's hind parts 
are toward you and his head from you, caressing every few 
minutes until he understands to move at the motion of the 
whip. Patient and careful practice in this way will make 
your horse prompt and graceful in his movements. 



SHOEING, 



The lioof of the horse, in a state of nature, is adapted only 
to a grassy surface. Here the natural wear and tear of the 
hoof is just compensated by its growth. When the wear is 
made greater than this, by driving on hard roads, the horn is 
worn down so rapidly that the vascular part of the foot would 
soon be exposed, and the horse would in consequence become 
lame. To prevent such a result, much attention has been 
given to the art of protecting the feet from increased wear 
and injury. 

The first step towards shoeing horses was by fastening a 
sort of sandal to the foot by means of straps or strings, and 
as experience brought improvements, plates of metal were used, 
but fastened to the foot 
in the same clumsy man- 
ner. It is supposed that 
plates of metal, or shoes, 
were used and attached 
to the feet in this way 
for nearly a thousand 
years before it was found 
practicable to fasten 

them with nails. The & & _ jj| . . ^-\i\ 1 

first effort to fasten -"^^S 1»1I*LJ 

shoes to. the feet by 
nailing was by driving the nails down through the crust and 
shoe and riveting on the under side. It is not known by 
whom or exactly when this improvement was made, or when 
the present system was introduced. 

The Icelanders form a piece of ram's horn into shape, and 
fasten it to the foot by means of horn pins. The antlers of 
deer are used for the same purpose, according to the accounts 
of travelers, by people of other remote .regions. In Japan 
sandals of plaited straw are used, fastened with straw bands 




88 



REMARKS ON SHOEING. 



around the fetlocks. The Arabians use a simple plate of 
iron, with a hole in the center, nailed on. 

Shoeing includes, first, the duty of preparing the feet for the 
shoes ; second, forming the shoes to the feet, so as to be most 
exact in size, weight and fitting to that part of the hoof, and 
that only, that is shown by experience to be best able to bear 
the pressure and strain of the shoe without injury, and pre- 
serve its form and bearing best ; and, third, that when injury 
and lameness results, the cause, at least, should be removed, 
and a reasonable effort made to restore the parts to a state of 
health. 

That part of the foot which is visible, and to which the 
shoe is fastened, is called the hoof. It is simply a thin cover- 
ing of horn to the delicate but powerful mechanism of the 
internal structure of the foot, and for convenience of descrip- 
tion is divided into three parts, the wall, sole and frog. 

THE FOOT. 




(No. 2.) (No. 1.) 

a a The frog. a The external crust seen at the quarter. 

b The sole. b The coronary ring, c The little horny 

c c The bars. plates lining the crust, d The same coil- 

ed The crust. tinued over the bars, ee The two concave 
surfaces of the inside of the horny frog. 
/ That which externally is the cleft of the 
frog, g The bars, h The rounded part of 
the heels, belonging to the frog. 

There are other minor points, a full description of which is 
not essential to our object here, such as the toe, heels, bars, 
commissures, &c. The outer crust, or wall, is a simple piece 
of horn, of from a quarter to three-eighths of an inch in thick- 
ness, increasing in thickness from the quarters to the toe, 
where it is thickest and grows fastest, in order to bear the 
increased wear upon this part. If this horn were cut into 
and examined with a microscope, it would be found to be 



STEUCTUEE OF THE FOOT. 



89 



made up of a large number of little tubes, or hairs, cemented 
together; that they can be split apart like the fibers of wood, 
and that the horn increases in hardness and density from the 
inner surface to that of the outer, the inner surface being 
quite soft, while the outer surface is hard and smooth. 





(No. 3.) Interior of a Healthy Foot. 

(No. 4.) Sole of a Healthy Foot. 

If we now look at the sole, we will find it from one-eighth 
to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, a little arched, of a dense 
yielding texture, joined firmly to the lower and inner edge of 
the wall. At the center, occupying the space between the 
heels, and extending well forward to a point towards the toe, 
is a softer and thicker formation of horn, admitting of great 
elasticity, which is the frog. (See cut No. 2.) Between the 
frog and its connection with the sole, on each side, is a little 
strip of hard horn, extending from the heels forward, called 
bars, which are a continuation of 
the outer wall. From the outside 
there seems to be a deep notch, on 
each side, cut down between the 
bars and frog, which are called com- 
missures, the whole showing the 
most admirable arrangement for 
strength and elasticity. The frog, 
being of a soft, elastic nature, acts 
as a cushion in protecting the sensi- 
tive parts over it from being bruised 
or injured, while the direction of the 
bars make them braces for keeping 
the heels in place. Connecting the 
internal parts of the foot with the 




(No. 5.) 

a Coronet. 

b Sensible lamellae. 



90 



STRUCTURE OF THE FOOT. 




hoof, is a strong muscular structure, arranged so as to afford 
great expansion, as well as strength. That connecting with 
the wall of the hoof is named sensible laminae, and that 
between the coffin bone and sole sensible sole and frog. This 
muscular structure has min- 
gled through it a complete 
network of nerves and blood- 
vessels. Hence we see that 
in any way producing pres- 
sure or restraint upon the 
wall or sole, so as to bruise 
this soft structure, will cause 
inflammation, and result in 
soreness, change of structure 
and lameness, to a greater or 
less extent, in proportion to 
the extent of the injury. 

The healthy foot is the 
best model for guidance, and 
the object should be in pre- 
paring the foot for the shoe, 
to simply bring it back to 
its natural form, and bear- 
ing. If the toe is too long, or the heels too 
high, or there is an unusual accumulation of 
old horn on the sole, remove so much as 
will restore the foot to its natural propor- 
tions and bearing. 

If the shoes have been on a month, cut 
away the horn grown more or less, accord- 
ing to the length of time the shoes have 
been on and the quantity of horn grown. 
If the foot is in a healthy condition, it is 
seldom necessary to interfere with the sole and frog. The sole 
and frog throw off horn by a natural process of expoliation; 
but sometimes the shoe extends so close and so far over the 
sole as to prevent this old horn from either wearing or scaling 
off. When this is the case, it should be dressed out, particu- 
larly at the heels, at the angles formed between the bars and 
crust. The buttress is usually so large and square edged as 
to make it unsuitable for doing this. Even with the greatest 
care, it is difficult, with such an instrument, to prevent cutting 



(No. 6.) 

View of the Arte- 
ries of the Frog 
and Sole, inject- 




(No. 7.) 

View of Vessels of the 

Foot, injected. 

1. Plantar vein. 

2. Plantar artery. 

3. Branches to the 
coronary substance 
and laminae. 

4. Posterior divi- 
sion of plantar ar- 
tery. 

5. Perpendicular 
branch. 

6. Anastomosis 
with opposite plan- 
tar artery. 




HINTS ON SHOEING. 91 

away too much at some points, while 
there cannot be enough cut away at 
others. An English shave, with the 
end turned back, like that of an in- 
strument with which to mark boards, 
is just the thing for this purpose. 
"While the object, in the first place, 
should be to reduce the hoof to its 
natural size, care should be used not 
to cut away too much of the wall; 
for, bear in mind, cutting away too q$ , s.) 

much must bring the shoe against A gound Fore-foot, prepared 

th3 sole, and forces driving the nails for the Shoe. 

too deep into the wall of the hoof, if a The heel of the crust> b 

not into the vascular part, inside, The toe cut out to receive the 

i-i -m , i t clip, c c The quarters of the 

which would not only cause lame- cr £ st . a d The bars as they 
ness, but be liable to induce the * noul 2 ] 3e left with the full 

7 . „ . frog between them, e e The 

Secretion or matter, and very seriOUS angles between the heel and 

consequences would follow. (See ^/W^^'Z!^^ 
Causes of Lameness.) And besides, toe. gg The bulbous heels, 
forcing so many nails into this thin 

horn weakens it so much that by a few repetitions of such 
shoeing it becomes difficult to nail on shoes with any certainty 
of being held to the foot very long, and, of course, the more 
re-nailing the more the mischief is increased. 

The bearing surface should be leveled down carefully and 
Jeft a little higher than the sole, so that there can be no bear- 
ing of the sole upon the shoe. If the foot is flat and will not 
bear this, then the shoe must be lowered inside of the part 
coming under the wall, so that the sole will not touch it. No 
definite rule can be given by which to explain just how much 
to cut away, or the limit. If the heels are strong and upright, 
they should be cut down so that the bearing will be level and 
the hoof appear natural. (See cut 8.) 

The next aim is to form and fit the shoe so as to approxi- 
mate it to the size and bearing of the foot and work of the 
horse. If the hoof is thin shelled and the horse is not worked 
much, the shoe should be light; but if the work is hard, more 
weight will be necessary. No general rule will apply here. 
The shoer is to understand that if the foot is properly prepared 
as directed, the shoe must be made big enough to just come 
out even with the edge of the hoof from the toe to the turn of 



92 



HINTS ON SHOEING. 



the heels, becoming a little wider at the extremity of the heels, 
for as the foot enlarges by growth, the shoe is brought for- 
ward under the heels until it loses its original proportion and 
becomes too short and narrow, to allow for which the shoe 
should be as much wider and longer than the foot at the heels 
(about a quarter of an inch) as it is supposed the foot will 
grow in the time it is intended to keep the shoes on before 
being re-set. The bearing surface of the shoe should be per- 
fectly level, and only so much of the shoe as comes under the 
wall of the hoof should touch the foot. 
Either the foot must be prepared so that 
the shoe cannot come down to the sole, 
or that part of the shoe coming inside 
the wall of the hoof must be so ham- 
mered down that the sole cannot possi- 
bly touch the shoe. (See cuts 8 and 9.) 
This requires being exact, no guess- 
ing or coming "pretty near" the thing 
and nailing on. The shoe should be so 
fitted that when laid on a level surface 
every part of the bearing surface would 
touch, and it should fit equally well to the foot. 

If the shoe as usually fitted is examined, the bearing surface 




(No. 9.) Shoe, inner sur- 
face beveled to prevent 
contact with Sole of Foot. 




(No. 10.) Shoe Properly Fitted. 

at the heels will be found concave or the inner edge of each 
heel much the lowest ; not only this, but often the heels are 
carried back too far, or the shoe is so wide that the heels rest 
on the seating inside of where fitted to support the heels. 



HINTS ON SHOEING. 



93 



It is evident that if the bearing surface at the heels is con- 
cave, there is a natural tendency as weight is thrown upon 
the foot to have the heels crowded together. 

With the foot properly prepared and the shoe properly fitted 
to it, the next important consideration is nailing it to the 
hoof. As the hoof is continually growing and becoming pro- 
portionately larger than the shoe, this must be done if possible 
so as not to bring lateral restraint upon the quarters, and this 
implies attention to the location of the nail holes. If the 
smith were to examine the thickness of the hoof of an ordinary 




(No. 11.) Bearing Surface Level. 

well-bred horse, he would perhaps be surprised at its thinness, 
and he would see the importance, in the first place, of making 
the holes near the edge well forward in the toe, and of not 
putting the shoe so far under the shell as to compel his driv- 
ing the nails too deeply into it, or of having the nails so large 
as to split and shatter the hoof. If the nail holes are made 
well into the shoe, and the shoe should be a little narrow or 
short, and be set well under the hoof, the nails must be driven 



94 



HINTS ON SHOEING. 



very near, or into the quick, which must result in serious 
lameness or injury. Two points, therefore, must be kept in 
view by the smith in punching the nail holes. First, making 
them so far forward in the toe as to prevent needless restraint 
upon the quarters. Second, so near the edge of the shoe as 
not to endanger driving the nails too deep in the crust. The 
nails should not be large, nor a greater number driven than is 
barely necessary to retain the shoe. 

It must be remembered that, at bes f , the hoof is greatly 
shattered by the nails; that the horn is thickest at the toe, 




(No. 12.) Ground Surface— Position of Nails. 



and the nailing well back to the quarters not only exposes to 
greater danger of pricking, but causes an injurious pressure 
upon the heels. If the horse is not used much, and the heels 
are rather square and upright, the quarters must be kept free. 
Have the nail holes made well forward on both sides, three 
on the inner and four on the outer side, or nail well back on 
the outside quarter, but well forward in the toe inside. As 



HINTS ON SHOEING. 



95 



the foot now grows, the shoe will be carried to that side and 
forward, leaving the inside quarter free, thereby making both 
quarters as independent of the restraint of the shoe as it is 
possible to do. Any increase in the number of nails to retain 
the shoe more firmly must not imply freedom to drive them 
back in the quarters. Let the holes be punched closer together 
in the toe. Care should be used not to file too deeply under 
the clinches, as is common; and in finishing off, the file 
should not be touched above the clinches, and below only 
enough to round the toe a little. There is & penchant in most 
smiths to improve the shape of the foot by rasping and filing 
the whole surface to the hair. The outside of the hoof is much 
more dense and hard than the inside, the small spaces between 
the fibres of- the horn are filled with a soft substance — the 
better to prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. If the 
whole surface of the hoof is rasped, the best part is not only 
likely to be cut away, but too rapid evaporation takes place, 
and the hoof is not only thereby weakened, but becomes dry, 
hard and contracted. If the horse is not used much, and 
stands on dry plank, this condition must be produced. 





(No. 13.) 



(No. 14.) 



Foot properly shod, and a foot that has been rasped down too much, in order to 
fit the shoe, which is too small for it. 

There is a very grave fault in the fitting and nailing of 
shoes, namely: if they happen to be too short, of setting 
them well back from the toe, which not only necessitates 
driving the nails so deep into the hoof as to prick and lame 
the animal, but also destroys the proportion of the foot by 
cutting down the toe too much. (See cuts 13 and 14.) 
Smiths seem to think it necessary to cut the hoof down to 
the shoe, no matter how far under the shell it may be. This 
is wrong, as the shoe is now pressing upon and nailed to the 



96 HINTS ON SHOEING. 

inside or soft part of the shell, which of itself leads to sore- 
ness and derangement. (See cuts 9 and 10.) In the first 
place the hoof should not be cut away too much in preparing 
for the shoe, but should leave plenty of strong, hard horn, 
through which to nail. In the second place, the shoe should 
come out even with the hoof; and third, the nails should be 
driven deep enough to hold firmly. Some shoers have a 





(No. 15.) (No, 16.) 

Nails driven too straight. How to nail the Shoe. 

faculty of going from one extreme to the other by driving the 
nails so near the outer edge of the crust that there is almost 
certainty of breaking through. (See cuts 15 and 16.) Illus- 
trative of this see cut 15 ; the hold of the nail is not deep 
enough; whereas in 16 the nail is started deep and comes 
out low, getting a good, strong hold, and not endangering 
driving into the quick. There should be no effort to cut 
down the hoof in any way that would weaken it, or destroy 
its natural appearance and bearing. 

Contraction of tlie Feet. 

If we examine the foot in its natural, healthy state, it will 
be found almost round, and very elastic at the heel. The 
frog, broad, plump, and of a soft, yielding character. The 
commissures open and well defined, and the sole concave. 
The outside of the crust, from the heel to the toe, increased 
from a slight bevel to an angle of about forty-five degrees. 
In a state of contraction the heels are narrow and high, 
the commissures closed and the frog small, and from bad shoe- 
ing a marked change in size arid form. Corns, or bruising of 
the sole at the heels, or any difficulty causing lameness, is 
induced by inflammation. Now, any cause by which the 
sensible sole or muscular structure uniting the coffin-bone to 
the wall of the hoof is bruised and inflamed, leads to either 



DISEASES OF THE FEET. 97 

decomposition and the formation of matter, thickening of 
cartilage, or growth of unnatural bony matter. 

The most common cause of inflammation, producing change 
of structure and lameness, is contraction. It is evident that 
the more horn is grown the wider and longer the foot becomes, 
and the more cut away the narrower and shorter it is made. 
If a shoe be fitted accurately to a foot after being trimmed 
and prepared carefully, it would be found in a few weeks to 
be much too short and narrow or too small for the same foot. 

The foot is continually growing and losing its original pro- 
portions with the shoe, which in four or five weeks becomes 
at least a quarter of an inch wider and longer than it was 
when dressed. Now there must be not only special provision 
made in nailing for this increased enlargement, but the great- 
est care should be used not to permit any lateral, mechanical 
pressure upon the quarters that would restrict their freedom. 

It must be observed that shoeing first raises the frog 
from contact with the ground, which, of itself, removes an 
important auxiliary to health in the foot; second, that nailing 
the shoe to the sides of the hoof brings direct restraint upon 
the quarters with increased force, and to the degree that this 
nailing is extended to the heels and the foot increases in size 
by growth, is the foot contracted by the restraint thus un- 
avoidably produced. 

There also is another cause of derangement requiring 
special notice, namely: the bearing surface at the heels is 
usually inclined inward, or the inside edge is much lower than 
the outer edge, often quite or more than a sixteenth of an 
inch, which alone is sufficient to cause serious contraction. 
In addition to which the increased absorption of moisture, 
induced both by inflammation and by keeping the feet dry, 
tends directly to this end, since the dryer and harder horn 
becomes, the more lessened in size. Of course, if direct pres- 
sure is brought upon the foot by which the vascular structure 
beneath the shell is bruised and inflamed, lameness and ulti- 
mate change of structure must ensue, which, if permitted, 
may cause serious or even incurable lameness. 

There is one peculiarity about contraction that seems to 
puzzle even good practitioners, which is the increased growth 
of the heels. The heels grow down rapidly, and the shell 
becomes very thick, while the frog becomes small and hard. 
If cut No. 16 is examined the sole will be seen to be 



98 DISEASES OF THE FEET. 

arched. Now it is evident if the quarters are pressed 
together this bending of the sole upward is increased, bring- 
ing increased pressure upon the suspensory ligaments and 
coffin-joint, and force the coffin-joint upwards and forward 
against the hoof at its upper edge. 

Now if you look at cut No. 5, you will discover an 
artery passing down on each side of the leg. which divides 
above the hoof into two branches, one forward around the 
edge of the hoof, and another back to the heel, which again 
throw off innumerable branches. The office of these arteries 
is to supply material for the growth of horn. Now the pres- 
sure induced upon the coffin-bone by the pressing of the sole 
against it as before explained, forces the coffin-bone against 
the upper edge of the hoof, and thus presses directly upon this 
artery, thereby obstructing the flow of blood to this part, and 
forcing it back into those supplying horn at the heels. Hence 
the forward part of the hoof grows slowly and becomes thin, 
while the heels grow down rapidly, becoming high and thick. 

The first and important object in curing disease is, to 
remove the cause. We must do more than this in the cure 
of contraction by removing the surplus horn accumulated and 
applying mechanical pressure in such a way as to gradually 
spread the foot back to its natural form and condition as it 
will bear. 

To do this we must first thoroughly soften the feet by poul- 
ticing. Next cut down the heels to within an eighth of an 
inch or a little more of the line yielding horn of the sole, 
trimming out the sole thoroughly. Cut down carefully be- 
tween the bars and frog. If not careful you will cut through 
and bring blood at the extreme of the heel, while you have 
not cut deep enough farther forward. Follow the curve of 
the sole, aiming to cut out an average depth until the heels 
will yield easily to a little pressure. 

The next object is to gradually force the heels outward. 
There are three ways of doing this : 

First, form the shoe of an equal thickness all the way 
round, with nail holes punched well back in the heels, and fit 
accurately to the foot, so that it will come out even with the 
edge of the hoof. Now drive the nails carefully, so that they 
will be deep enough into the horn to hold firmly without 
endangering pricking, leaving the points stick down straight. 
After all are driven down, pull them out again. Heat the 



TREATING CONTRACTED FEET. 



99 



shoe and spread it about one-eighth of an inch, more or less 
according to what the foot will bear, and put on again. Now, 
drive the nails again, each a little at a time until driven home, 
and clinch firmly. It is seen that the shoe must now exert an 
outward pressure upon the heels equal to the increased 
breadth of the shoe. Keep the foot reasonably soft. In a 
few days or a week the clinches can be carefully drawn, the 
nails pulled out, the shoe made wider and nailed as before, 
which can be repeated so long as the nails will hold well. 

A simpler method is 
that of the convex shoe, 
(cut 17.) The foot is pre- 
pared as before, with the 
difference of not cutting 
away the bearing surface 
so much at the heels. The 
shoe, instead of having the 
bearing surface level, 
should be made convex, 
the outer edge from an 
eighth to three-sixteenths 
of an inch lower than the 
inner edge, running out at 
the toe. This surface 
should be filed down care- 
fully, and so fitted to the 
foot that the heels will rest on these inclined surfaces, the 
shoe being a little wider than the heels, and nail on. Now 
there is a continued slipping outward of the heels when weight 
is thrown upon the foot. Remember one point here. Do not 
commit the error of cutting down the heels very close. You 
must have horn enough to keep the shoe from possibly coming 
in contact with the sole. If it does, the inner edge pressing 
upon the* sole forms a shoulder which will not only prevent 
expansion, but bring pressure upon the yielding sole, bruising 
the sensitive sole above, and acute lameness will result. 

The third, and by far the best, is that of Tyrrel's patent shoe, 
(cut 18.) By this shoe, if properly fitted and applied, the 
foot can be expanded as little or as much as may be desired. 
It will also enable expanding one or both heels as may be 
desired, and is unquestionably the best form of shoe ever 
invented for the cure of contraction. The only difference 




(No. 17.) Convex Shoe for the cure of 
Contraction. 




100 DISEASES OF THE FEET. 

there is in this shoe from the^common form is: first, the inside 
edges of the heels are turned up into little clips ; second, the 
shoe is so cut out at each side of 
the toe as to enable bending the 
quarters outward, by putting the 
tongs or a screw between the 
heels and pressing them out- 
ward. The clips at the heels 
extending up inside of the bars 
at the extreme of the heels press 
the heels outward just so much 
as the shoe is spread, which can 
be done every few days at will 
until the foot is expanded as 
much as may be desired. This 
(No. 18.) Tyrrel's Patent Shoe for is the great consideration in the 
the cure of Contraction. cure f contractions so far as 

mechanical pressure is concerned, and of all the shoes I have 
seen for the purpose, this is the best, and in my judgment 
is unrivaled. With its use contraction can be cured in a 
short time. This shoe has been thoroughly tested, and is 
shown to be the best for the cure of contracted feet ever 
brought into use. Gentlemen desiring shoes of this form, 
with full instructions in relation to their application and per- 
mission of use, must address the owners, Tyrrel & Ferren, 
Batavia, New York. 

This shoe is also the very best for the cure of splitting of 
the hoof, as it enables pressure upon the quarters outward, 
and thus keeps the parts pressed together. 

Corns 

Appear in the angle of the hoof near the heel. They are 
generally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing 
the shell of the hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws 
the w T eight upon the sole, or the angles between the bar and 
crust are not properly dressed out. If the descending heel 
of the coffin bone meets with too much resistance by want of 
elasticity in the sole at this place, the sensitive sole is liable 
to be so bruised and injured as to produce corns, which 
are simply a contused wound of the sensitive sole. If of an 
ordinary character, upon cutting away the horn, there will 



TREATMENT FOR CORNS. 



101 




(No. 20.) 

Situation and appear, 
ance of an old corn. 



dress clown the part bruised 



be found a red spot; if very bad, the color will be a dark 
purple and deeper seated. 

If in this condition it is neglected, matter may be formed, or 
the inflammation may cause 
the lateral cartilages which 
are attached to the heels of 
the coffin bone to become 
ossified, or even the accumu- 
lation of large, bony deposits, 
which would destroy the mo- 
bility of the foot and cause 
considerable deformity. 

All pressure must be re- 
moved from the part. First, 

until quite thin. Put a little sulphur on, and burn in pretty 
well with a hot iron, or put 
on buttyr of antimony, which 
will stimulate a healthy 
growth of horn. 

If there is much inflamma- 
tion, poultice ; and if there is 
a cavity or the sensible sole 
is exposed, put on a little 
pitch and tallow, over which 
spread a little tow. Put on 
the shoe so fitted there will 
be no pressure on the part. 
To do this a bar shoe will often be necessary. (See cut No. 
22.) The shoe should be re-set frequently until cured. 

Quarter Crack;. 

When the hoof is dry and hard it is easily split. A piece 
of glue when very dry splits and breaks very easily if 
pounded upon, but if softened by moisture would only bend 
and be bruised. The hoof partakes of the character of glue. 
If very dry the fibres become dense and hard. If while the 
feet are in this condition the horse is driven fast on hard 
roads, the hoof is liable to burst. If the hoof is thin and 
contracted, there is great danger of the inside quarters split- 
ting. 

Cut down the hoof back of the crack, so that there is no 
pressure of that part of the bearing surface upon the shoe, 




(No. 21.) 
Testing for Corns. 



102 



COENS AND INTERFERING. 



put on a bar shoe, cut across the split deeply at the 
of the hair with a firing iron. Next cut down the edges of 
the hoof so far as split extends, to the quick. Then soften 
and grow down the hoof rapidly by applying any good, 
stimulating ointment. A mixture of 
equal portions of tar, lard and turpen- 
tine, is excellent for this purpose. The 
fitting of the shoe should be carefully 
attended to, the hoof grown down as 
rapidly as it is safe to do, and the 
part kept clean by covering it with a 
little tar, or a mixture of resin and 
tallow. There will not be a cure 
until a new hoof is grown down, 
which will take about six or eight 
(No. 22.) months. 

Bar Shoe for Corns. 





Interfering. 

Some horses travel so close that the least neglect of hav- 
ing the shoe well under the quarter, and the part nicely 
dressed down, would cause a bruising and cutting of the 

opposite ankle. If you do 
not know what part of the 
hoof strikes the ankle, wind 
the ankle with a piece of 
bandage and daub it with 
(No. 23.) some coloring matter ; then 

Interfering Shoe. trot the horse until some of 

this coloring is found on the hoof, which indicates the part 
that strikes. The shoe should be so formed and fitted as to 
come well under this portion of the hoof. To do this well, 
that side of the shoe should be made rather straight, with the 
web narrow, and the nail- holes well forward in the toe ; at 
all events there must be no nails driven into that part of the 
hoof that strikes, as the clinches will be likely to cut. If 
the toe cork is set well round, on the inside of the toe, and 
the foot is so pared, or the shoe is so formed that the bearing 
of the inside of the foot is raised somewhat, there will be a 
tending in the ankle to be thrown out when borne upon. 
But the great object is to have the shoe fitted and filed 
smoothly, and set well under the part hitting, so that after the 



SHOEING AND CARE OF FEET. 



103 



hoof is rasped off all it is prudent to do, and rounded down 
carefully, the shoe sets far enough under not to endanger its 
cutting, yet supports the hoof, and gives a natural bearing to 

the foot. The chief danger 

will be that some portion of 

this part of the shoe, will be 

made to extend beyond the 

hoof, and the shoe be fitted 

and put on so roughly that 

it can scarcely be said to be 

fitted any smoother or bet- 
ter than is usually done, 

without regard to such a 

purpose. It is always best 

to keep the bearing natural 
by trimming the foot level, and making the shoe of an even 
thickness, but set it under and file smoothly. If this will not 
do, raise the inside a little. Driving young horses to sulky 
will often cause interfering; getting a horse in good condi- 
tion will often overcome the difficulty. If the ankles are cut 
or sore, they should be protected with pads until well. If the 
owner values the animal highly, he should give such shoeing 
his personal attention. 





(No. 24.) 
Interfering Pad. 



(No. 25.) 
A Leather Boot to 
protect the Ankle. 



PricKing. 



If the smith should happen to drive a nail so deep into the 
crust as to strike the sensitive part, he should by no means 
drive a nail into that hole again, so that if matter is formed 
by the injury there will be an outlet for it. If the horse 
becomes lame after being shod, examine the foot carefully. If 
pricked by driving any of the nails too near the quick, there 
will be. heat and tenderness in the hoof easily discovered. 
Have the shoe taken off, and cut down to where the nail 
strikes the quick, enough to make room for any matter that 
may have formed to escape; then poultice with flax seed 
meal until the inflammation is reduced, when a little tar, resin, 
or tallow, or something of this kind, should be put on, and 
the opening filled up with a little tow to prevent gravel or 
dirt from getting in, and the shoe put on again. 



104 SHOEING AND CARE OF FEET. 

Weak Heels. 

Cutting down too close and fitting the shoes roughly, so 
that the horse wears and breaks down the heels, will cause 
them to be low and sensitive. Such feet should be simply 
leveled down with the rasp carefully, and the shoe fitted to 
touch every part of the bearing surface at the heels. 



It should be borne in mind that that form of shoe which 
accords with the foot in making the bearing natural, preserves 
its elasticity and protects it from injury, 
is best. If we examine the foot it will 
be found concave. This is the best 
form to enable a fulcrum that will pre- 
vent slipping. If we would imitate 
and carry out in the form of the shoe, 
that of the foot, it should be also con- 
cave, or thick at the outer edge and 
beveled upward to the inner edge on 
the ground surface. Such a shoe will 
not ball, prevents slipping, is lighter, 
and would certainly enable more speed 
on a track if at all wet. Amateurs 
who have an opportunity should see my models of shoes of 
different patterns. 

Shoes for summer wear should be level, of an equal thick- 
ness from toe to heel. If the roads are soft, this is certainly 
advisable, to give the frog pressure. If shoes are made with 
corks, the inside ones should be rounded, so as not to cut the 
feet. The outside ones will prevent slipping. My " Maine 
Snow Shoe " is undoubtedly the best for winter use ; will not 
ball, and prevents the feet most effectually from being bruised 
or injured. 

The bearing surface of all shoes should be level, and come 
exactly under the wall of the hoof all the way round. The 
nails should be as small, and as few, and as far forward in the 
toe as will retain the shoe safely, the object being to protect 
the foot and keep it healthy. When from any cause there is 
an undue absorption of moisture, making the frog and hoof 
dry and hard, either from inactivity by standing on a dry 




SHOEING AND CARE OF FEET. 105 

floor, or driving on dry hard roads, or both, it must be sup- 
plied by artificial means. Stuff or fill the feet with flax-seed 
meal, to which has been added a little wood ashes mixed with 
water. It will stick. Or wet cloths may be tied around the 
hoof. 

If there is soreness of the feet, put them in water as hot 
as can be borne, for an hour each day, for one or two weeks, 
or blister mildly around the coronet, repeated two or three 
times. 

If there is a dry, hard condition of the feet, apply moisture 
around the coronet by tieing wet cloths around the hoof, or 
poulticing, stopping the feet with flaxseed meal, as before 
explained; after which, apply some of the preparation for 
softening the feet and stimulating the growth of horn. 

The usual palliative means of rubber cushions and such 
means, put between the hoof, to cure soreness and lameness, 
are of no account, since they do not reach the cause of diffi- 
culty. The nailing of the shoe must necessarily be so tight 
as to press out all the elasticity there is, and, in addition, the 
heels cut through such means so quickly that they will not 
prove of any real value. 

Shoes should be re-set once in from four to six weeks. 
For light, occasional use, not more than seven nails should be 
driven — four on the outside and three on the inside — well 
forward. The shoe should come well out under the toe, so 
that there is no necessity for more than touching. the edge a 
little to reach the shoe, and by all means do not allow that 
reckless rasping of the outside of the hoof so general with 
shoers. If the shoe is short it should not be a reason that 
the hoof must be cut clown to it. Even rasping under the 
clinches should not be permitted. A thin shell can be easily 
ruined in this way; besides, this rasping of the whole surface 
of the hoof not only removes the strongest and hardest part, 
but permits too rapid an evaporation, which causes the horn 
to become hard and brittle. It is much better, easier and 
cheaper to keep the feet healthy than to cure them. It is 
wise in shoers to be patient and do the work well, and owners 
should remember that extra care and skill deserves extra 
compensation. It is hoped that the few explanations given 
will aid in a better understanding of this duty. 
5* 



106 LAMENESS FROM INJURIES OF THE FEET. " 

If the horse shows sudden lameness in the foot, especially- 
after being shod, examine it carefully; strike the hoof lightly 
with a small hammer; put the hand first on one foot and then 
on the other, that you may discover any increased heat. If 
a nail has been driven too deep, remove the shoe. If much 
inflammation, poultice — usually necessary for twenty-four hours 
or more — when cover the part with tow and a preparation of 
tar and resin, or pitch and common grease. If a nail has 
been driven into the foot, get the horse to the stable as quick 
as you can, take off the shoe, poultice the foot, and give a 
sharp dose of physic, and let the animal stand quietly. The 
object is to keep down inflammation. No hot oils or anything 
stimulating is to be applied. 

I would by all means keep the wound wet with callendula, 
which should be reduced one-half by adding soft water. Second 
best treatment, digestive ointment. Next, any of the digestive 
remedies. There is liable to be tenderness if the sole should 
strike the ground afterwards, as there may be inflammation of 
the periosteum, to relieve which, put on a high-heeled shoe 
and blister around the coronet. The sole is sometimes bruised 
by the shoe pressing upon it, causing much inflammation and 
lameness. Take off the shoe, poultice for twenty-four hours 
or more; fit the shoe so as to remove all pressure from the 
sole; if sore yet, continue the poultice; if matter is formed, 
treat as you would any such ulcer, with a healing astringent. 
Several good preparations are given in another part of this 
work. 



DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. 



The treatment and remedies given in the following pages 
can be used with confidence. AVhile the treatment given is 
the very best, there are many special remedies, of the greatest 
value, never before published, worth from ten to fifty dollars 
each to any horseman. The author has spent thousands of 
dollars and much valuable time (devoting one year to special 
study and practice with one of the best veterinary surgeons 
in the United States) in acquiring the knowledge imparted 
here, besides including all the favorite remedies, prized for 
their great curative powers, gathered by him, at a large cost, 
during his long experience before the public in his profession. 

Colic— Spasmodic and Flatulent. 

Colic is one of the most common as well as most dangerous 
diseases to which the horse is subject. There are two forms 
of this disease, namely, Spasmodic and Flatulent Colic. 

The first is wholly of a spasmodic nature, and if not 
relieved, will, in severe cases, run into inflammation of the 
bowels, causing speedy death. 

The second, while exhibiting the same general symptoms, 
shows marked enlargement of the belly, from generation of 
gas, which, if not checked and neutralized, results fatally by 
rupturing the diaphrani, causing suffocation and death. 

I will first give the simplest and safest treatment for each ; 
after which I will include a remedy Avhich is almost a specific 
for both, and cannot be too highly prized. 

The common causes of colic are, application of cold water 
to the body, drinking cold water when in a heated condition, 
costiveness, unwholesome food, &c. 

First — Spasmodic Colic. Premonitory symptoms are sud- 
den. The animal paws violently, showing evidences of great 
distress, shifting his position almost constantly, and manifest- 



108 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



ing a desire to lie down. 
In a few minutes these 
symptoms disappear, 
and the horse is easy. 
But the same uneasi- 
ness soon returns, in- 
creasing in severity 
until the animal cannot 
\ be kept upon his feet; 
the pulse is full, scarce- 
ly altered from its nor- 
mal condition; a cold 
sweat breaks out over 
the body; temperature 
of legs and ears natural. 
As the disease advances the symptoms become more severe, 
the animal at times throwing himself down with force, regard- 
less of consequences, looks anxiously at the sides, sometimes 
snapping with the teeth at the sides, looking anxiously at the 
belly, and striking upward with the hind feet, showing almost 
the same symptoms as in inflammation of the bowels. There 
are, however, strongly marked characteristics peculiar to each. 
The better to point them out, I will tabulate them, by which 
the difference and peculiarities of each can be easily deter- 
mined. 




First Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 



COLIC. 
Sudden in its attacks. 

Pulse, in the early stage of the 
disease, not much quickened or 
altered in its character. 

Legs and ears of a natural 
temperature. 

Rubbing the belly gives relief. 

Relief obtained from motion. 
Intervals of rest. 
Strength scarcely affected. 



INFLAMMATION OF BOWELS. 
Gradual in its approach, with 
previous indications of fever. 

Pulse much quickened, small, 
and often scarcely to be felt. 

Legs and ears cold. 

Belly very tender and painful 
to the touch. 

Motion increases pain. 

Constant pain. 

Rapid and great weakness. 



This disease being wholly of a spasmodic nature, it must 
be counteracted by antispasmodic treatment; bleeding being 
the most powerful method of relaxing the system, taking 
from six to twelve quarts of blood from the neck vein, more 
or less, according to the size of the horse and severity of the 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



109 




;# 



Second Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 



case. Always in bleeding 
make the orifice large and 
extract the blood as quickly 
as possible. 

If not bled, give from two 
to three ounces of laudanum ,, 
and a pint of raw linseed oil. j|J|||||l!M 
If not better in an hour, give fe^Sjz^sl 
two ounces of laudanum and "li^r^T^ss^ 
the same quantity of oil. 

The peppermint and ether, 
as recommended for flatulent colic, will sometimes work ad- 
mirably in this, and may be tried at first, if at hand. 

Aconite, belledonna, co- 
locynth and nux vomica, 
in doses of from five to ten 
drops, in a little water or 
sugar, given upon the 
tongue, repeated every fif- 
teen or twenty minutes, 
will often cure colic prompt- 
ly. This is homeopathic 
treatment, and is very good. Third Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 




Flatulent Colic, (Tympanites.) 

Symptoms same as spasmodic colic, with the difference of 
there being so great an accumulation of gas in the stomach 
and intestines that the belly is swelled. This disease will 
often prove fatal in from one to three hours. It is generally 
very sudden in its attack, often occurring while the animal is 
at work, particularly during warm weather or changeable 
weather from cold to 
heat; but- is generally 
caused by indigestion, 
producing gases in the 
stomach or bowels. 
The horse is violently 
swollen along the bel- 
ly, flanks and side 
generally. There are 
sometimes belchings 
of gas through the First Stage of Flatulent Colic. 




110 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

esophagus or gullet. Pulse is rarely disturbed until the 
disease advances, when it will become quickened, running to 
its height rapidly, and receding as quickly if fatal. If to 
terminate fatally, it will become weaker and slower until it 
is almost imperceptible. 

In this case, bleeding must not be attempted, neither must 
any fluids be forced into the rectum. The animal loses 
strength rapidly, and to bleed prostrates too much and checks 
perspiration, without lessening accumulation of gas, and death 
must almost surely follow. 

Treatment. — Blanket warmly, in order to keep up perspira- 
tion as much as possible, and give the following immediately: 
Two ounces sulphuric ether, two ounces peppermint, one pint 
of water; to be taken at one dose. If not relieved, repeat in 
thirty or forty minutes. Keep the animal as quiet as possi- 
ble, and give a good bed to lie on. 

Note. — The ether disturbs the breathing, making the horse 
apparently distressed — breathes laboriously — but will pass off 
in a few hours. 

If much bloated, do not let the horse lie down, as the 
shock might cause the diaphram to be ruptured, when of 
course all hope of saving the animal would result only in 
disappointment. 

The above treatment is the best and most reliable perhaps 
ever used for this dangerous disease. I have never known it 
to fail when given in a reasonable time. 

It is seldom necessary to repeat the dose more than once 
to cure. 

ANOTHER GOOD REMEDY FOR COLIC. 

The following remedy, if at hand, will be found invaluable 
for the cure of spasmodic or flatulent colic. It will afford 
almost immediate relief if given soon after commencement of 
attack, and is almost a specific for this dangerous disease: 

Sulphuric ether, 1 pint; aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pint; 
sweet spirits nitre, 2 pints; opium, 34 lb.; asafoetida, (pure,) 
% lb. ; camphor, % lb. Put it in a large bottle, let it stand 
fourteen days, with frequent shaking, and it will be fit to use. 
Dose: One ounce, more or less, according to the severity of 
the case, once in from thirty minutes to an hour. Should be 
given in a little water, which may be sweetened. 

Owners of valuable horses should keep a supply of this 
medicine on hand ready for use. 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. Ill 



Inflammation of tlie Lungs. 

Any cause by which the circulation is obstructed and 
deranged may excite inflammation of the lungs. The most 
common are, exposing the animal while warm to a cold wind, 
or becoming chilled from driving fast against a cold wind, wash- 
ing with cold water immediately after exercise, changes from 
heat to cold, or from cold to heat, removing from a warm to 
a cold or from a cold to a warm stable, or cold applied to the 
surface of a heated animal, by which the blood is driven from 
the skin and extremities to the internal organs, may cause 
inflammation of the lungs (pneumonia), pleurisy, congestion of 
the lungs, inflammation of the bowels (enterilis), founder (lami- 
nitis), or other difficulties of a similar nature. 

"When the lungs are involved, the severity or mildness of 
the attack and the part inflamed indicates the extreme and 
character of the disease. Thus: When the pleuro, a mem- 
brane that surrounds the lungs and extends between them 
and the walls of the chest, is inflamed, the disease is called 
pleurisy. When the inflammation is located in the lungs, it is 
called pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs. When the 
action of the capillaries is greatly lessened from their being 
weakened, or the blood being so forced through them that 
they are obstructed and clogged, the difficulty is called conges- 
tion of the lungs. 

There cannot be inflammation of a part without there being 
more or less inflammation of the other parts surrounding, and 
there cannot be inflammation without congestion, as there is 
always obstruction of the circulation where there is inflam- 
mation. 

As pleurisy, inflammation of the lungs and congestion of the 
lungs are only different types of the same disease, excited by 
the same general causes, and the treatment for each is almost 
the same, I will include their treatment under the same gen- 
eral head. The better, however, to guide the reader, I will 
give the symptoms of each. 



may be sudden or gradual in its attack, the horse showing 
indisposition sometimes for days previous. The horse will 
be dull and heavy in action for a day or two, unwilling 
to fie down, pulse not much disturbed, or there is a chill, 



112 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



which lasts from one to three hours, when fever sets in; 
breathing at flanks a little accelerated, countenance is anxious, 
the head is sometimes turned towards the side, does not lie 
down. As the disease advances the symptoms become more 
marked. The ears and legs become cold; the pulse, from 
being a little accelerated, grows quicker, hard and full; the 
head is hung forward, stands up persistently, breathing hur- 
ried, the membrane of the nose and eyes red. Turning the 
horse short round, or hitting against the chest, back of the 
shoulder, will cause a kind of grunt. 

Treatment. — Blanket warmly, and put in a comfortable 
stall, where there will be pure air, and give aconite, prepared 
as follows: Tine, aconite, 1 oz. ; water, 3 oz. Of this give 
from fifteen to thirty drops every twenty or thirty minutes, 
on the tongue, giving more or less according to the severity 
of the case. If the case is severe apply some strong stimulant 
to the legs and on each side of the body and breast, such as 
mustard, made into a paste and rubbed in thoroughly, or a 
liniment composed of aqua ammonia, reduced one-half with 
water; or any strong stimulating liniment should be applied. 
The aconite should be repeated every twenty or thirty minutes 
until relieved, lessening the dose both in proportion and fre- 
quency as the condition of the animal improves. 

Note. — If you give a few doses of aconite about the time 
fever sets in, or before, the horse will be relieved next day. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS 

is first noticeable by the horse having a severe chill or shiver- 
ing fit. He refuses his food, hangs his head between the 

fore legs or upon 
the manger, will 
not move or lie 
down, breathing 
quick and short, 
panting like. The 
nostrils are expand- 
ed, the head thrown 
forward; the coun- 
tenance expresses 
pain and grent pros- 
tration. (See cut.) 

The Commencement of Inflammation of the Lungs. The pulse is SOine- 




TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



113 




times full and quick, but generally quick and weak, scarcely 
perceptible; the membrane of the nose and ej T es bright red, 
■ tending to purple ; ears and legs very cold ; a choking noise 
sometimes coming from the throat. 

Note. — In severe cases the horse may be very restless, lie 
down and get up very suddenly, resembling colic. Here the 
practitioner may be deceived if not careful to observe closely. 

In some cases a little blood may be thrown from one or 
both nostrils. Extreme prostration and laborious breathing 
and bleeding from nostrils shows severe congestion of the 
lungs. In this case re- 
lief must be prompt, or 
the horse may die from 
suffocation. 

Treatment. — As the 
first object now is to 
reduce the congestion, 
it will be necessary to 
take from four to six 
quarts of blood from 
the neck vein. Stimu- 
late the sides and legs 
as for pleurisy, and give 
aconite, prepared in the same maimer, ever}'" ten minutes until 
the fever subsides, when small doses are to be repeated at 
intervals of a few hours as the case improves. Oil or physic 
must not be given in the treatment of any of the forms of 
inflammation of the lungs, as such so intensifies the inflam- 
mation as to often make the case terminate fatally. 

In all ordinary cases of inflammation of the lungs all that is 
necessary to do is to put the horse in a well ventilated stall, 
blanket and give aconite. A few swallows of water should 
be given occasionally, and if the horse will drink, the medicine 
may be given in the water. Watch the pulse and the condi- 
tion of the animal. In health the pulse is about 40 beats to 
the minute, regular and full. In inflammation of the lungs it 
may run up to 70 or even 80 beats, and so light as to be 
scarcely felt even by the touch of the experienced practitioner. 
Improvement will be denoted by the pulse becoming fuller 
and more regular, and the countenance will become more 
lively. I have known many cases to apparently resist treat- 
ment for days, the condition of the animal continuing about 



Congestion of the Lungs. 



114 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 




Position Assumed by a Horse During a Severe 
Attack of Inflammation of the Lungs. 



the same, and then 
yield readily. Usual- 
ly the improvement 
is marked from the 
start. Of course it 
is desirable, when the 
case is severe, to re- 
sort to active counter 
irritation, to excite 
the blood to the ex- 
tremities. The mus- 
tard, ammonia or 
other stimulating 
preparations recom- 
mended should be used three or four times a day. 

If the pulse is high and obstinate, and does not yield to 
the above treatment, alternate by giving tincture veratrum, 
in the proportion of about ten or fifteen drops in a little water 
on the tongue, repeated every thirty or forty minutes until 
tli ere is a noticeable effect upon the pulse. It is also some- 
times advisable to alternate with a few doses, of belladonna, 
given in the same proportion. 

It is hardly safe to recommend any complication of treat- 
ment that would possibly confuse or mislead. This is perhaps 
the safest and most practical treatment ever given to the pub- 
lic, and if used in a reasonable time, and with any degree of 
prudence, is almost sure to cure. 

After improvement, diet should be low for some time — 
gruel and bran mashes, not much at a time; a few carrots or 
potatoes, and no oats or corn, and but little if any hay. 



TYPHOID PNEUMONIA, OR A LOW TYPE OF INFLAMMATION 
OF THE LUNGS. 

This disease sometimes assumes an epidemic form, and is 
both dangerous and treacherous if not anticipated and properly 
treated. 

Though a common and fatal disease, it is not laid down in 
any veterinary works I have seen, and in consequence of 
ignorance of its nature and improper treatment, is very fatal. 

Symptoms. — The horse is dull, off his feed, disinclination 
to move, pulse about 50, weak or low; will sometimes eat a 
little hay; will not lie down; not much cough; barely any 



TEEATMENT OF DISEASES. 115 

discoloration of the membrane of the nose or eyes; urine 
scanty and high-colored; faeces hard and coated; after two or 
three days the membrane of the nose and eyes a little more 
discolored or red; pulse quicker; there is a discharge from 
one or both nostrils, usually one; the breathing is quicker; 
about the sixth or seventh day there is a large flow of urine, 
is more clear and watery in appearance; the legs swell and 
there is a watery secretion under the belly, after or during 
which there may be lameness, usually in one of the fore legs, 
which may soon change to the other. 

The main point in treating the disease is to keep the fever 
down without lowering the strength. Bleeding or physic 
must not on any account be resorted to. Give aconite as for 
the other cases, observing the same care in blanketing and 
putting in a clean, well ventilated stall. Nurse and tempt 
the appetite by giving warm gruel and such mild delicacies as 
the horse will eat. If the pulse is above seventy, give more 
aconite; if below that, less. This fever will run its course 
in -about seven or eight days. Nurse carefully; the animal 
will show great prostration, and recuperates slowly, and must 
not be put to work until fully recovered. Do not give any 
physic or attempt to bleed. A fatal result will almost surely 
follow depletion. On the contrary, it is often necessary in 
critical cases, where the system is low and the strength is 
reduced, to give tonics. The safest and best course for the 
reader to pursue is to keep and build up the strength by care- 
ful nursing. Give all the feed, at all times, the horse will 
eat. It is highly important to keep the appetite good and 
keep the strength up. 

Catarrli, or Cold. 

Cold is of common occurrence, and may 
lead to very serious consequences if neg- 
lected. If looked to in time, with a little 
rest and nursing, the system will soon 
resume its normal condition. 

The usual symptoms are, a little in- 
crease of pulse, a slight discharge from 
the nose and eyes, the hair roughed, not 
much appetite, and some cough, which is 
sometimes severe. 
. Blanket warmly, give aconite as for 




116 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 




Steaming the Nose 
of a Horse h iviug 
Cold. 



fever. Nurse by giving bran mashes, &c. If 
the case is serious it may run into general 
inflammation of the air passages, as bronchitis 
or laryngitis. Would aim to keep up the 
strength, giving fever medicine, alternating 
with belladonna. Put on a bag, made of 
coarse, loose cloth, into which put some bran 
on which throw an ounce or two of turpen- 
tine. Now pour on some hot water. Hang 
the bag on the head, same as in cut, being 
careful not to have it so tight around the 
nose as to heat or scald and be oppressive. 
A few repetitions of this will cause the nose 
to run freely. Rest and care will usually do 
the rest. 




If there is obstinate inflammation of the throat and air 
passages, any good liniment may be applied around the chest 
and throat and bandaged, as shown in the cut. The object is 
to stimulate the surface, and this would be an easy, practical 
way of doing it. 



This is another form of sore-throat, familiar to every one. 
Its design seems to be to throw some poisonous matter from 
the system, and the object should be to keep the strength of 
the animal up and hasten suppuration. 



TEEATMENT OF DISEASES. 



117 




Strangles. 



The horse. is out of sorts; the 
neck becomes sore and stiff; an 
enlargement appears which is first 
hard and tender; there is some 
discharge from the nose. The 
case usually grows worse, if very 
severe, often threatening to cause 
suffocation ; horse unable to eat or 
drink but little, and strength is 
lost rapidly. 

Use freely a poultice made of wheat bran and warm 
vinegar, changing as often as the 
poultice becomes dry, using the 
eight-tailed bandage, until the en- 
largement becomes soft and can be 
opened, when relief will be prompt. 
Or the following treatment may 
be adopted, which is similar, and 
if the alteration is not good, is 

preferable : Take spirits of turpen- Applying an Eight-Tailed Bandage 
*■ , , x - ... f in Strangles. 

tine, two parts; spirits of cam- 
phor, one part; laudanum, one part. Put this on the neck 
with a brush, if convenient, or any 
way to apply it without exciting 
pain, three or four times a day 
until soreness is caused. After 
each application have ready three Eight-Tailed Bandage. 

or four pieces of flannel, which should be a good thick article ; 





Opening the Abscess in Strangles. 



118 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

put these over the parts and bind on with the eight-tailed 
bandage. When the tumor points, open it, and be sure that 
the matter has a thorough outlet. Sometimes the inflamma- 
tion is so deep as to cause serious soreness and swelling of 
the throat. In this case the horse must be nursed carefully 
by feeding with warm gruel; the drink should be warm; 
grass or anything that will tempt the appetite should be 
given. Physic must not be given. 

Inflammation of the Bowels. 

This disease is generally caused by constipation of the 
bowels, hard driving, over-purging or looseness of bowels, or 
drinking cold water when warm. Constipation is, however, 
the principal cause of the disease, and when this is the case, 
the first and most important condition of relief is to get an 
action of the bowels. 

Symptoms. — For the first 
few hours the horse is uneasy, 
paws, looks around at the side, 
the pulse is slightly accel- 
erated and wiry. As the 
disease advances the inter- 
missions between the attack 
become less, pulse quicker, 

Symptoms of Intestinal and Abdominal • f . 

Irritation, as Shown in Inflammation running from Seventy to 

of the Bowels. eighty beats in a minute, in 

some instances even faster; lies down and gets up, shows 
much pain, no swelling of sides. Now begins to exhibit fever, 
bowels constipated, urine highly colored and scanty. 

Remedy. — Give a quart of raw linseed oil. 

Note. — If constipation is very great, add from four to six 
drops of croton oil. 

If scours or over-purging, give an ounce and a half of the 
tincture of opium with six ounces of water. But in order to 
suppress the inflammation it is necessary to bleed immediately 
from the neck vein from six to ten quarts of blood, according 
to the strength and size of the animal. In extreme cases 
bleeding may be repeated to the extent of four to six quarts 
in three or four hours. If much pain exists in constipation, 
give from one to three ounces tincture asafcetida. Feed lightly 
for a week at least, giving gruel, roots, grass and bran mashes, 
and keep quiet. No exercise for several days if there is danger 
of a relapse. 




TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



119 




Inflammation of the Kidneys. 

Inflammation of the kidneys is generally caused by bard 
work, by slipping, throwing the hind parts so suddenly under 
the belly as to produce undue tension of the lumbar vertebra?, 
or from sudden colds by being exposed to rain and cold, the 
eating of musty hay or oats, or unhealthy food of any kind. 
Too powerful or too often repeated 
diuretics produce inflammation of 
the kidneys, or a degree of irrita- 
tion and weakness of them that 
disposes to inflammation, from 
causes that would otherwise have 
no injurious effect. 

Symptoms. — Less or more fever 
of the system generally, and unwil- 
lingness to move, particularly the 
hind legs, dung hard and coated, 
very sensitive to pressure on the 
spine. The horse looks anxiously 

round at his flanks, Stands with his Appearance of a Horse Suffer- 
hind legs wide apart, straddles as in s fr ° m Diseases of the Uri- 

,-p , r .' . . nary Organs. 

he walks, shows pam m turning; 

the urine is voided in small quantities, and is usually 
high colored, sometimes bloody ; the attempt to urinate 
becomes more frequent, and the quantity voided smaller, 
until the animal strains violently, without being able to pass 
any or but very little urine. The 
pulse is quick and hard, full in the 
early stage of the disease, but 
rapidly becoming small, though not 
losing its character of hardness. 
Introduce, the hand into the rectum. 
If the bladder is found full and hard 
under the rectum, there is inflam- 
mation of the neck of the bladder. 
If the bladder is empty, yet on the 
portion of the intestines immediately 
over it there is more than natural 
heat and tenderness, there is inflam- 
mation of the body of the bladder. 

K, , , -i t -. • J . 3 ,-• • Test for Inflammation of the 

the bladder is empty and tliere is Kidneys. 




120 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

no increased tenderness and heat, there is inflammation of the 
kidneys. 

Treatment. — If the pulse is high, about sixty, take five or 
six quarts of blood and give a fever ball; to be repeated in 
three hours if not better. Fever ball: 4 drams Barbadoes 
aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2 drams ginger, calomel about 
the size of a bean, molasses sufficient to make into a ball. 
Counter irritation must next be excited over the seat of 
the disease. The loins should be fomented with hot water or 
covered with mustard poultice, or, better, heat a peck of salt 
in an oven, place it in a bag, and put it over the part affected. 
If the case is severe and protracted, a sharp blister may be 
used. No diuretics are to be given, as they would simply 
aggravate, and make the disease worse. After the bowels 
are open, give aconite, and treat as for fever. After recovery 
the horse should be kept very quiet for a month, and if in 
season, turned out to grass. If in winter, feed with light 
mashy diet; exercise lightly by leading, if the animal be 
valuable and it is desired to aid recovery by extra care. 

Inflammation of the Bladder. 

Symptoms almost the same as those of inflammation of the 
kidneys. Frequent voiding of urine in small quantities, 
quick pulse, looks frequently at flanks, paws violently, tender 
when pressed upon under the flanks. 

Here the principal object is to lower inflammation and 
relax the muscular contraction of the neck of the bladder. 
Bleed largely, almost to fainting; give physic as for inflam- 
mation of the kidneys, or a quart of linseed oil. A dram 
of powdered opium, made into a ball, or given in drink, every 
two or three hours, and blister over the loins. Give aconite, 
as for inflammation of the kidneys. 

Inflammation of the Brain, or Staggers, 

Is first noticeable by dullness or sleepiness of the eyes, an 
unwillingness to move, general heaviness of the system. This 
disease is frequently called megrims, fits and mad staggers; 
but in part only one disease, according to the extent of such 
disease as the animal may be affected with. 



TKEATMENT OF DISEASES. 121 

111 my opinion, there is but one cause for staggers, that is, 
an undue flow of blood to the brain, which rarely or never oc- 
curs in any animals except those in a plethoric (fat) condition. 

Some writers and practitioners assert that there is a disease 
known as stomach staggers. I have never seen a case where 
it was necessary to treat the stomach, but always direct 
attention to the brain, as being the seat of this disease, 
which may be properly called head staggers. 

In cases of megrims or fits it is merely a lesser attack, or 
pressure of the blood-vessels on the brain, and mad staggers 
is a greater pressure of the same vessels on the same part. 
The brain is divided into two parts, namely, cerebrum and 
cerebellum, which occupy a horny box in the head. The 
blood-vessels passing over the brain and coming in contact 
with the skull, become distended by an increased quantity of 
blood, and produce the feeling, which is thus exhibited. 

There is but one cure for this disease, and that is, remove 
the cause. Bleed largely from the neck — ten, twelve or 
fourteen quarts, or until the symptoms of fainting. After the 
horse is convalescent a sharp dose of physic should be given 
to regulate the bowels. I would advise owners of such horses 
to dispose of them. Once taken with the disease, they are 
subject to a repetition of the attack when the blood-vessels 
become filled again. 

Note. — Small doses of aconite (of the quantity for fever) 
may be given three or four times a clay as a good preventive. 
Turning horses to pasture that may be liable to this disease 
will prove both injurious and dangerous. 

Founder, (Laminitis.) 

There are two stages of this disease, acute and chronic. 
The first produces a high state of excitement and inflamma- 
tion of the sensible laminae of the foot. The second, a mor- 
bid or insensible feeling of the parts generally. The first is 
invariably cured if properly treated. The second is not cura- 
ble, but may be palliated to a limited extent. Acute founder 
is easily detected. The animal invariably extends the fore 
feet as far forward as he can, and brings the hind ones in the 
same position under him. There is so much pain in the fore 
feet that he endeavors to throw his weight on the hind ones. 
(See cut.) The common causes of founder are exposing the 
animal when warm to sudden changes, usually produced by 
6 



122 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



the following means, namely: Standing in cold air when 
warm, after being driven, driving through a river while w r arm, or 
giving cold water to drink while warm, washing the feet when 
warm and neglecting to dry them, &c. It is generally sup- 
posed that feeding a horse while warm will produce founder. 
This is an error, unless it is such food as will chill the system, 
which may be done by giving a large quantity of cold wet 
mixed feed, whereby the circulation would be checked, as 
before explained. 




The Horse as he Appears when Suffering from Inflammation in the Feet, or 
Founder. 



To come right to the point, founder is simply inflammation 
in the feet, whatever of general disturbance of the system is 
caused by the pain and soreness in them, and the correct 
principle of cure is to lower and remove this inflammation 
before change of structure or sloughing can take place. 

Treatment. — As soon as the disease has developed itself, 
bleed from the neck, according to the size and condition of 
the animal — from six to twelve quarts. Then give a sharp 
cathartic ball — 7 drams aloes, 4 drams bar soap, 1 dram gin- 
ger. Make into a ball and give immediately. After the fore 
shoes have been removed, poultice thoroughly with bran wet 
with cold w r ater. This poultice may, while on the feet, be 
kept wet by dipping the poulticed foot into a pail of cold 
water, or pouring some on. This poulticing should be kept 
up from four to five days, when the shoes may be tacked on, 
and the animal exercised a little. Cloths wet with cold water 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 123 

should be tied around the coronet and the soles stuffed for a 
week or two. The horse should have tepid water to drink 
and warm bran mashes during the operation of the medicine. 
If the disease should be stubborn, which is rarely the case, a 
second ball may be given after an interval of five days. 

Nothing can be done for a sub-acute founder, or case badly 
treated. If the sole is broken down do not pare the sole. 
Fit the shoe so as not to press on the sole. Stuff the whole 
bottom with oakum and tar, and apply leather over. Put on 
the shoe carefully. Cure is impossible. If warm fomenta- 
tions are used, instead of cold, a relaxation of the sensible 
laminas on the wall of the foot is liable to take place. This 
throws the entire weight on the sole, through the os pedis, 
forcing it through at the toe. 

There are but few who will attempt to bleed as directed, 
and fewer still who will give a ball, (special directions for 
doing which will be found in another chapter.) If you can- 
not bleed or physic as directed, bleed from the toes, if you 
can, standing the fore feet in moderately warm water while 
doing so, and give aconite as for inflammation of the lungs. 
Keep the feet wet by poulticing or standing in cold watei 
until relieved. Use cloths and stuff as before directed. 

This treatment even will cure, but the first treatment given 
affords prompt relief. No dependence can be placed upon 
pretended sure cure for founder. The treatment here given 
is specific and can be relied upon. 

Heaves, or Broken "Wind. 

Heaves produces increased action of the flanks. The inspi- 
ration is natural, but the expiration requires two motions to 
expel the air. There is always a short cough, or grunt, and 
at the same time expels wind while coughing. Heaves are 
never found in the racing stable, where horses are properly 
fed. They are always found among cart or team horses, 
where the owners suppose they must feed a large quantity of 
coarse food or hay. 

The seat of the disease is located in the air cells of the 
lungs, causing enlargement and sometimes a rupture of these 
cells. This disease is often produced by forcing too large 
a quantity of food into the stomach and bowels, and the 
greedy animal, not being even then satisfied, eats the bedding. 



124 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

He is then taken out and worked or driven hard, the bowels 
and stomach pressing on the diaphram, thereby not allow- 
ing the lungs to expand by being filled with air, and by 
this increased pressure the air cells are enlarged or ruptured, 
and the horse is said to have the heaves. Much has been 
said by different authors regarding the curability of heaves. 
Some advocate one means and some another, among which is 
that of feeding on Western plains, or prairie grass, or feeding 
prairie hay, which is said to contain resin weed, that will 
effect a cure. Prairie hay is only a palliative, affording relief 
so long only as used. Prairie hay or grass is more laxative 
than timothy hay, and the animal cannot eat half as much in 
a given time of the former as of the latter, consequently it 
not only promotes a condition favorable to respiration, by 
stimulating the bowels, but does not cause that pressure upon 
the lungs that the timothy in consequence does. While 
prairie hay has a decidedly beneficial effect in alleviating 
heaves, there are several other kinds of food equally as 
good, or better, than prairie hay or grass. One is, cornstalk 
fodder. As it is the amount of saccharine matter that food 
contains which makes it valuable, and the less compass it 
occupies in the bowels the better, we must arrive at this con- 
clusion, and experience proves it to be correct. One quart of 
oats is equal to an armful of hay, and three pounds of corn 
leaves contain more sugar than six times the bulk of hay. 
The cause, the cure and treatment is marked in these words, 
that heaves is produced by pressure on the diaphram, by too 
much food in the stomach and bowels, and is cured by less- 
ening the quantity of a better quality of food, to occupy the 
same space. If horses are turned out to grass, after a few 
days heaves will generally disappear, from the fact that the 
bowels are generally relaxed by taking exercise and having 
pure air. 

The only treatment which will prove in any degree effect- 
ive is as follows : first give one of the following balls : 
Ginger, powdered, % oz.; capsicum, % oz. Form a ball. 
This ball to be given three nights in succession; then omit 
two or three nights, and one or two balls may be given again 
in succession ; or eight or ten drops of tincture of phosphorus 
may be given in drink several times a day for eight or ten 
days. The horse should have regular exercise, be watered 
often, (small quantities at a time,) and have straw instead of 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 125 

hay to eat, (corn fodder would be much better.) Under this 
treatment heaves will disappear. 

PAYOBITE REMEDIES OF GREAT VALUE FOR HEAVES. 

1. Spanish brown, 2 oz. ; tartar emetic, 2 oz. ; resin, 4 oz. ; 
ginger, 2 oz. Mix and give two teaspoonfuls twice a day in 
the feed. 

2. Vegetable tar, in mass, % oz. ; gum camphor, % oz. ; tar- 
tar emetic, 1 dram. Form into a ball, one of which is to be 
given once a day. If proper attention is given to feeding, 
this will cure the heaves in three days, unless very bad. 

3. The following prescription is one of the very best reme- 
dies known for heaves, and will in many cases cure : Take 
indigo, 1 oz. ; saltpeter, 1 oz. ; rain water, 1 gallon; mix and 
give a pint twice a day in the feed. 

Tetanus, or IiOcfced. Jaw. 

This disease is wholly of a nervous character. A descrip- 
tion of the symptoms is scarcely necessary, but in the first 
stage there is a disinclination to move ; then the tail becomes 
erect and quivers, the ears set back, and the conjunctina 
(hair) is thrown over the pupils of the eye, and the head is 
elevated. 

As the disease advances the muscles all over the neck and 
body become stiff and rigid, and the legs have the appearance 
of a four-footed stool. The animal has little or no power to 
move. 

For the first few days the teeth remain apart, but as the 
disease advances the muscles of the jaw become so contracted 
as to bring them close together. Hence the name of locked 
jaw. 

The causes of this disease are numerous, but it is generally 
produced from a wounded nerve or bunch of nerves, pricking 
the tail, and very often from docking, punctured wounds in 
the feet from glass or nails, and sometimes from severe ex- 
posure to cold, and I have known one case to occur from 
fright. As to the pulse, it is almost normal for the first few 
days. As the disease advances the pulse quickens, and the 
animal is compelled to stand on his legs until death, if it ter- 
minates fatally. If favorably, a relaxation of the muscles 
begins from the fifth to the seventh day. This disease is 
more common in the extreme South than in the North. 



126 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

Treatment. — First, as the disease is of a nervous character, 
quietness is of the greatest importance. The animal should be 
put into an isolated place or box, by himself, and the cause of 
the disease found. If from docking, the next joint should be 
taken off the tail. If from a wound in the foot, the wound 
should be opened up and made new, and an application of 
digestive ointment inserted, so as to produce a healthy flow 
of matter. When the irritation has ceased from the wound, 
a pail of gruel should be placed before him, in which is mixed 
half an ounce of tartar emetic. This medicine should be 
given daily, and the spine rubbed well with a strong liniment, 
composed of one part of aqua ammonia and two parts of 
sweet oil. This embrocation should be employed daily until 
the back becomes sore. 

Tetanus never arises from a wound until about the period 
that it may be considered healed. Bleeding about four quarts 
daily for four or five days has cured several bad cases. Think 
if the bowels can be regulated, quietness has more to do in 
producing a cure than all other remedies. 

Spavin and Ringbone. 

There are two kinds of bone spavin, namely: Jack and 
ocult, or consolidated joint. The first is located at the upper 
portion of the metatarsal bone at its juncture with the 
cuboid bones. The second is usually located higher up and 
more on the inside of the astragalus bone at its junction 
with the cuboid bones. 

Spavins of either of the above classes have the same origin 
and same causes, namely, inflammation of the cartilage of the 
joint in the first instance, and extending to ulceration of the 
bone, consequently bony matter is thrown out, uniting more 
or less of the bone of the hock and excess of matter and 
ulceration of the bones from the enlargement. 

The causes of spavin are numer- 
ous, but principally of one class, such 
as sprains, hard work, blows, and, in 
fact, any cause exciting inflammation 
of this part. But a common cause 
and a great fault lies in the breeders 
of horses, as very often the colt is 
bred from spavin sire or dam, or 
Showing the Changes of struc. both, and the colt is certain to inherit 
tore Caused. the game prec li S position. 




TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



127 




Bone Spavin, 
hundreds of 



The symptoms at the commencement are treacherous. Very 
often horses are treated for hip lameness, before any enlarge- 
ment makes its appearance. The horse, at first, is very lame 
while laboring under acute inflammation of the 
hock joint. He will not wear out of the lame- 
ness as he does in the more advanced stage of 
the disease. The tumor generally makes its 
appearance from the fifth to the eighth week. 
Sometimes, however, the lameness is very 
gradual — scarcely perceptible at first — getting 
worse until there is marked lameness at starting, 
which will soon wear off as the horse warms up. 

The method of curing is varied as there ar 
different remedies and applications. Some men go so far as 
to pretend they can remove spavins. To a skillful practi- 
tioner this is absurd. It will be seen that if such quacks 
can remove the exter- 
nal tumor, they can 
not separate the bones 
which are united, and 
horses maybe spavined 
without any visible en- 
largement. 

I can simplify all 
this to gentlemen in- 
terested, by illustrating 
what I mean, by my 
specimens, a good col- 
lection of w h i c h I 
carry for the purpose. 
Sublimates, muriatic 
and sulphuric, and nitric acids form the basis of the different 
ointments that are applied to remove this formidable disease. 
They always make a bad sore and blemish the animal for life. 

The only reasonable treatment for bone spavin is counter 
irritation and rest. If there is heat during the first few days, 
apply cooling applications, such as an ounce of sugar of lead 
to half a pail of ice water. Keep the leg wet for about two 
weeks, when it may pass off. A dose of physic should be 
given. If this stage has passed, repeated blistering with a 
preparation of iodine or cantharidine will be necessary; but 
much better would be the actual cautery in an operator's 




Natural Action. 



Effect of Bad Spavin 
— Leg not Brought 
Forward. 



128 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



hands. Clip the hair closely over a large surface four or five 
inches above and below the enlargement, and then out to the 
middle of the back and fore parts of the leg. Any of the 
strong blisters recommended for spavins, for which formulas 
are given in another chapter, are to be used. If a blister, rub 
it in well with the hand for ten minutes or more. In two days 
put on some grease. When the inflammation goes down, wash 
with warm water and castile soap, and when dry put on more 
blister, and so repeat, keeping up just as much irritation 
as you can without destroying the hair. In the mean time, 
the horse must be kept in a comfortable stall, for one of the 
conditions of cure is rest. Keep up the inflammation in this 
way for four or five weeks, after which give a run to grass. 
It is sometimes necessary to blister lightly, if the lameness 
does not disappear in six or eight weeks, which may be 
repeated a few times, with iodine ointment in the proportion 
of one part of iodine to two of lard. 

Work should be light, if any, within 
three months. This treatment will usually 
cure without leaving a blemish. 

Treat ringbones on the same principle. 
Trim off the hair and blister in the same 
manner, observing the same condition of 
rest. As regards taking off the enlarge- 
ment, this treatment is as effectual towards 
that end as can be used. 

Several of the very best recipes for the 
cure of spavins and ringbones will be found 
Kingbone. hi another chapter. 




BLOOD SPAVIN, THOROUGH PIN, 

Soft enlargements upon the hock. Treatment the same. If 
not of long standing, the fol- 
lowing will be found very 
effective, though simple: Rub 
on soft soap at night, and 
wash off in the morning, re- 
peating until cured. Two or 
three applications will cure, if 
recently caused. If of long 
duration, blister two or three 
Thorough Pin. times, clipping the hair as for ^sim-h? 10 ^ 1 





TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



129 



spavin. If the enlargement is very great and of long stand- 
ing, it is difficult to do much. 

SPRAIN OF THE BACK SINEWS. 

The animal becomes suddenly lame, and by use grows 
worse. Pass the fingers down 
on each of the tendons back 
of the knee. A little en- 
largement, if there, with con- 
siderable inflammation, will be 
discovered. Use cooling astrin- 
gent liniment until the acute 
stage passes off. If not better 
then, blister, observing to 
give the animal rest. It is 
sometimes very obstinate. 




Enlargement Caused by Sprain of the 
Tendons. 



This is an enlargement between 
the cannon and splint bones, show- 
ing itself on the inside of the fore 
leg. The same treatment as for 
spavin. 




Changes that may Splint, 

be Produced. 





Clean Hock. Curb. 

This is an enlargement of the integument, 



Curb. 



nd in some 

cases of bony deposit, usually caused by a strain. It is situated 

6* 



130 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

on the back part of the hock, just below the cap. Same 
treatment as for spavin. 

Coffin Joint Lameness 

Is often mistaken by those who are not capable of locating 
the diseases of horses' feet to be lameness of the shoulder, from 
the fact that generally after the shoe is removed, and no ex- 
ternal injury is discovered in the foot, some distant part is 
selected as the location of the disease. Navicular disease is 
dangerous and treacherous in its progress and development. 
It is commonly caused by violent sprains of the navicular joint, 
although sometimes, and, in fact, very often, may be induced 
by a contusion of the frog ; and again, there is a disposition 
to have this disease from hereditary causes. 

The coffin joint is composed of three bones : the os pedis, 
the navicular and small pastern bones. The navicular bone 
answers the purpose of a support in 
allowing great elasticity of motion. The 
flexor tendon inserts itself into the os 
pedis, and passes immediately over the 
navicular bone, so that at each step the 
navicular bone is thrown upon one part 
of the os pedis and small pastern at the 
same time. It will be seen that in all 
cases of lameness of this joint, as well 
as in any other joint lameness, that the 
cartilage of the bones is inflamed, and 
Section of the Parts En- as the disease progresses ulceration takes 

tenng into the Compo- -, -\ ^ i i ■ Tl 

sition of the Foot, and place, and consequently ancholosis. It 

JohS. tlOCk and Pastern is almost striving against hope to be 

able to explain to the general reader the 

coronal. SU co^pedis. el symptoms to enable ability to locate the 

os navicuiare e e The disease with any degree of certainty. 

perforans and perloratns ~ ,. ^ r> , i ■• . • 

tendons, g inferior sesa- Coras or bruises of the sole, contraction, 
rn-og/TsiSe^fnog or almost any cause exciting inflamma- 
cleft. 3 Sole, k Crust! tion in the foot, may cause similar lame- 

l Coronary substance. i , j- 1 A i 

ness, and to an ordinary observer there 
cannot be that fine judgment necessary to trace from certain 
peculiarities the location of the trouble. 

Horses having navicular disease invariably travel more on 
the toe than on the heel, consequently the shoe is always 
worn more at the toe than at the heel. The hoof rarely or 




TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 131 

never is malformed, but the disease commonly occurs in heal- 
thy looking feet contraction of one or both heels, which will in 
many cases interfere with the outer cartilage of the joint. In 
cases of long standing the frog appears to recede, and does 
not have a natural appearance. If the horse is taken sud- 
denly lame, sometimes scarcely putting the foot down, and 
only presses upon the toe, feel of the foot carefully. If there 
is heat around the top of the hoof and tenderness — even a 
little at the heel — there is probably strain of the coffin joint. 
In incipent cases (first stages) there is fever and tenderness 
to motion of the joint, which is noticeable by catching the 
foot in one hand, the ankle in the other, and twisting a little. 
The animal will show pain and resist. 

As to treatment, in the first stage, the shoe should be re- 
moved, and have the toe of the shoe hammered down. The 
heels should be raised, and applied again so as to remove all 
pressure from the frog, and a cloth or rug saturated with cold 
water applied to the coronet. The bottom of the foot should 
be stuffed with oil meal or some adhesive substance. If this 
is done for a few days, with rest, the first attack will generally 
pass off. 

In the more advanced stage of this disease it will require 
thorough treatment. The shoe should be formed and applied 
as before, and a severe blistering applied to the coronet, which 
should be continued for from one to three weeks, with rest. 
At a still more advanced stage the frog seaton may be used, 
but this must be clone by an experienced practitioner. 

In ail cases of this disease the animal will require consider- 
able rest. 

I would here remark that in an advanced stage of the 
disease the horse is a little lame, sometimes worse, at others 
better ; rough road and down hill worse ; is no worse to be 
at work ; usually no apparent change in the hoof; will go 
better when the heels are raised by using high-heeled shoes; 
worse by bringing heels to the ground. 

Sweeny. 

This is an affection of the muscles of the upper part of the 
shoulder. It is characterized by a shrinking of the shoulder, 
with lameness. It is called atrophy, or wasting away of the 
muscles of the upper part of the shoulder. The cause of 
sweeny is dependent upon some other difficulty. Contraction, 
corns, etc., or any cause preventing a proper use of the limb. 



132 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

Examine the foot carefully, discover the cause, and, if pos- 
sible, remove it. Next, take oil of spike, 2 oz.; oil of orga- 
num, 2 oz.; aqua ammonia, 2 oz.; spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.; 
sweet oil, 2 oz.; alcohol, 2 oz.; mix. This is to be applied 
freely to the shrunken parts and well rubbed in every other 
day. Four or five applications will cure. 

The usual method of cure is by a seaton. The needle is 
passed through the skin at the upper border of the shrunken 
part and passed down under the skin and out at the lower 
border. The tape is then drawn through and the ends are 
knotted together. The tape should be smeared with Venice 
turpentine or a little blistering ointment, or fifteen or twenty 
drops of tincture of Spanish flies may be dropped into the 
opening. The seaton should be washed every day. In fif- 
teen or twenty days the seaton can be taken out, and the 
sweeny will be cured. 

Retention of Urine. 

The most common cause is keeping the animal at work, not 
giving time to urinate, and a spasm of the neck of the bladder 
or gravelly concretions ; any cause of irritation may cause 
spasm. Symptoms are the same as in inflammation of the 
kidneys, except standing very wide behind, and when walk- 
ing, a straddling gait resembling a cow with a very full bag. 

The most prompt treatment is to use the catheter, and 
scarcely anything more is necessary. But if one is not ob- 
tainable, bleed freely and give a strong opiate. 3 oz. tine, 
opium, in half pint of water. 

Scours or Purging. 

This disease is generally produced by two causes : change 
of food or water, or unhealthy food, and sometimes through 
nervous excitement. 

Care. — Neutralize the acids in the bowels by giving an 
ounce and a half of prepared chalk and a dram and a half 
of prepared catechu, mixed in a pint of water. Give once or 
twice a clay until purging ceases. Keep the animal without 
exercise, and do not give much water to drink. 

The treatment given in the following pages will be found 
very valuable, as it is written up in plain language, and the 
very best treatment given. There are single remedies given 
here worth far more than the cost of the book. 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



133 



Spasmodic Action of tlie Diaphragm, (Tlmnips,) 

Is caused by severe and long-continued driving and hard 
work. Horses of a nervous temperament having too much 
cold water given to drink on a cold morning, nervous irrita- 
tion, or excitement from any cause, may excite this trouble. 

Symptoms. — A sudden jerking or twitching of the muscles 
of the sides and flanks ; pulse wiry, quick and low, more or 
less fever ; extremities natural. 

Cure. — This disease being of a purely spasmodic character, 
but in this case wholly of a nervous nature, bleeding must be 
omitted, and must be treated wholly by giving spasmodic 
remedies. Give asafcetida, in a dose of from 1 to 3 ounces 
of the tincture, mixed in a half pint of water. Given as a 
drench will stop it almost instantly. 

If necessary, the medicine may be repeated in two hours. 
Keep the horse well clothed, and keep all exciting causes 
away from him. The bowels should be kept loose and regu- 
lar, by giving bran mashes and moderate exercise. 



The symptoms of worms are debility, feebleness, sluggish 
movements, emaciation, staring coat, hide bound, skin covered 
with blotches, irregular and capricious appetite, tucked up 
belly, pallid appearance of the 
lining membrane of the lip, badly 
digested fasces, rubs the tail, and 
where fundament worms exist a 
whitish substance will be found 
about the fundament. 

Give of calomel, 3 drams; 
tartar emetic, 1 dram. Mix and 
divide into three powders ; one 
to be given at night for three successive nights. To be fol- 
fowed, in twenty-four hours, with a good purging ball. 




Symptoms of Worm?. 




Taenia, or Tape Worm. 



Different Kinds of Worms. 



134 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 
Bleeding. 



For general bleeding the jugular vein is selected. The 
horse is blindfolded, or his head turned away ; the hair is 
smoothed alonsj the course of the vein with a moistened 




Raising the Vein. 

finger, then, with the third and little fingers of the left hand, 
which holds the fleam, pressure is made on the vein sufficiently 
to bring it into view, out not to swell it too much. The point 
to be selected is about two inches below the union of the 




Bleeding from the Neck Vein. 



jugular vein at the angle of the jaw. (See cut.) The fleam is 
put in a direct line with the vein at the center, when it is to 




TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 135 

be hit sharply with a stick. See that the 
fleam is large, sharp and clean, for if rusty or 
dull, inflammation of the vein might result. 
It is of great importance that the blood be 
drawn quickly. When sufficient blood has been 
taken, the ^eclges of the wound should be 
brought closely together, and kept together 
by a small sharp pin being passed through 
them. Around this a little tow or a few hairs 
from the mane of the horse should be wrapped, A pin is first stuck 

., , , ,. , • • • n through the lips 

so as to cover the whole ol the incision, and f the wound; 

the head of the horse should be tied up for tow PO thread ov 

several hours, to prevent his rubbing the part hair is then 

against the manger. When the bleeding is to S^E? """^ 
be repeated, if more than three or four hours 

have elapsed, it will be more prudent to make a fresh incision, 
rather than to open the old wound. 

Physicing. 

It is always best, if possible, to prepare the horse for physic 
by giving a bran mash twenty -four hours previously, as the 
medicine will act more favorably and there is less danger of 
superpurgation. Five drams of aloes (Barbadoes aloes are 
always used for horses) will act as forcibly after a mash as 
seven without. Again, the quantity of physic should be 
adapted to age and size. The rule is to give one dram for 
each year up to seven. Eight drams is the largest given at 
one close. 

Physic Ball: Barbadoes aloes, pulverized, 7 drains; bar 
soap, 4 drams ; ginger, 1 dram. The usual way is to mix the 
ingredients in this proportion, then reduce to the weight in- 
tended and give. 

One ounce of tartar emetic is used by some practitioners 
for physic. It is more easily given. 

For Alterative Balls simply give from one to two or three 
ounces of mass, as above prepared, two or three times a week, 
for a week or two. 

For Worms : Give 4 drams aloes, 1 dram tartar emetic, 2 
drams ginger, about the size of a bean of calomel, and molasses 
enough to make into a ball. To be given every morning for 
three days. 



lo6 TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 

Condition Powders : Sulphur, 2 lbs. ; fenugreek, 4 lbs. ; 
cream tartar, 1 lb. ; liquorice, 1 lb. ; niter, 1 lb. ; black anti- 
mony, X A lb. ; gentian, M lb. ; aniseed, M lb. ; common salt, 1 
lb. Dose — One ounce daily, for two or three weeks. 



CUTS OR WOUNDS— REMEDIES FOR. 

If the cut or wound is very bad, trim the hair off close 
around the edges, and wash out carefully with warm water 
and castile soap. The object next is to produce a granulating 
process. There is hardly any use in sewing up cuts, as the 
stitches will slufF out. 

Simple tincture of marigold, called callendula, has the best 
healing action of anything I have used. It will heal by first 
intention, and if a contused wound lowers inflammation and 
soreness. For man it is unrivalled, and I have found it 
equally good for horse flesh. 

A fine healing lotion is : Tincture myrrh, 1 oz. ; tincture 
aloes, 2 oz. ; water, % pint. Mix, and apply two or three 
times a day. 

For Thrush or Canker: Burnt alum, 4 oz. ; sulphate of 
iron, 2 oz. ; sulphate of copper, 1 oz. ; camphor, 2 drams. Mix. 

Blue vitriol, in the proportion of two drams to a pint of 
water is an excellent application for wounds. If a caustic 
effect is desired, increase the quantity to an ounce or more, 
and it will be found a fine preparation to rouse old ulcers to a 
healthy action. 

For a healing ointment the following is unrivalled : 2)4 lbs. 
palm oil, 2 lbs. lard, % lb. gum turpentine, 34 lb. beeswax, 1 
lb. calamine. Simmer all together over a slow fire, and it 
will be fit for use. Put a little in the wound once a day. 
Wash the wound with warm water and castile soap before 
applying the ointment. 



Wash for Reducing an Inflamed Wound, 

One oz. sulphate of zinc, 1 oz. crotus martes, % oz. sugar 
of lead, 1 pint water. A sore will not smell bad when this 
wash is used. 



TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 137 



Wash for Fresli Wounds. A Favorite Keniedy of Great 
Value. 

One teaspoonful white vitriol, 1 teaspoonful copperas, 2 
teaspoonfuls fine gunpowder; add to 1. quart of boiling water, 
and let it stand until cool. If the wound is deep, apply with 
a syringe. One of the best of remedies for the purpose 
recommended. 



laninient for Open Wounds. A Fine Preparation. 

Take sulphate of copper (copperas), 1 oz. ; white vitriol, 2 
oz. ; muriate of soda (salt), 2 oz. ; oil linseed, 2 oz. ; Orleans 
molasses, 8 oz. Boil over a slow fire fifteen minutes, in a 
pint of urine, all of the above ingredients. When nearly 
cold add 1 oz. of oil of vitriol and 4 oz. spirits of turpentine, 
and bottle for use. Apply to the wound with a quill, which 
will soon set the wound to discharging, and perform a cure in 
a few days. Be careful to keep the wound covered either with 
a bandage or a plaster. Should be applied once or twice a 
day until it discharges freely. 

Magic Healing Preparation. 

Burnt alum, % oz. ; prepared chalk, 1 oz. ; pulverized gum 
camphor, 1 dram; calamine, pulverized, 2 drams. Mix. 

Sprinkle on the sore. Its effect will be apparently wonder- 
ful, healing a simple wound in a few hours. 

It is well to mention that matter in deep wounds always 
lodges or runs to the bottom. Hence, in treating such they 
must be either opened up to the bottom or syringed out care- 
fully. First sponge out with soap and water, then inject the 
medicine "from a syringe. If there is proud flesh, sprinkle on 
blue vitriol, powdered, or any caustic. 

Great latitude is necessary in the treatment of wounds. It 
is assumed the reader is capable of using some judgment. I 
give remedies of the greatest value, and if any prudence is 
shown in their use success must result. I would caution in one 
respect: do not doctor a wound too much. As a rule, do not 
dress a wound but once, or at most twice a day. 



138 TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 



To Cure an Indolent Ulcer. 

Take the green scum that gathers on the water in the frog- 
ponds in the spring and summer ; boil over a slow fire ; then 
add fresh butter to the consistence of an ointment. This 
is an Indian remedy; cured an ulcer of seventeen years stand- 
ing that had resisted all other treatment. 

Liniment for Foul Ulcers. Good. 

Sulphate of copper, 1 oz. ; nitric acid, % oz. ; water, 8 to 
12 oz. 

Cooling Liniment for External Inflammation. Good. 

Goulard extract, 1 oz. ; vinegar, 2 oz. ; spirits of wine, 3 
oz. ; water, \% pints. Apply with a bandage. 

For Inflamed Leg, Galled Shoulders or Back. A Really 
Good Thing. 

Sal ammoniac, 1 oz. ; vinegar, 4 oz. ; spirits of wine, 2 oz. ; 
tincture arnica, 2 drams; water, % pint. Mix, and bathe 
with it often and thoroughly. 

A Very Active Blister. 

Two drams corrosive sublimate, 1 oz. lard, % oz. tar, 2 
drams cantharides. Rub and mix well together. Good for 
spavins, ringbones, curbs, &c. 

Powerful Absorbing Blister. 

Equal parts of beniodide of mercury and cantharides, three 
parts of tar and lard each. Rub in well with the hand for 
three mornings, and use lard after to soften and take off the 
scab, when it may be repeated if necessary. 

For absorbing enlargements, use beniodide of mercury, one 
part; from one to three of lard, according to strengtji desired. 
One of the finest remedies for the above enlargements. 

The following liniment, taken from " Stuart's American 
Farmer's Horse Book," is highly extolled and used so generally 
for blistering, counter irritation, spavins, ringbone, splints, 
curbs, corns, thrush, canker, foot rot or weak heels, bruising of 



TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 139 

the soles, &c, that I am induced to include it in tins part of 
my work : 

Corrosive ]Linimeiit<, 

Take a pint of turpentine, which put in a good strong bot- 
tle, adding an ounce of finely pulverized corrosive sublimate 
and an ounce of gum camphor. Shake well, and let the mix- 
ture stand for twenty-four hours, when it will be fit for use. 

The value of this liniment depends greatly upon the fineness 
to which the corrosive sublimate is pulverized. Grind it as 
fine as possible in a druggist's mortar ; pounding with a ham- 
mer will not answer. The object of this pulverization is to 
get the substance in such a form that it will be readily dis- 
solved by the turpentine. There are comparatively few 
liquids which will dissolve corrosive sublimate, and we claim 
to have discovered that turpentine is one of these. Corrosive 
sublimate is well known as one of the most violent poisons. 
Its combination with turpentine constitutes one of the most 
powerful of medicines, increasing in its active properties by 
keeping. We believe it to be the most penetrating liniment 
in the world. It reaches the seat of disease through any and 
all obstacles. It destroys all infection, putridity, ulceration, 
old running sores, proud flesh, and all skin and bone diseases 
of the horse. It will cure big head and jaw, grease, thrush, 
scratches, swelled legs, hoof rot, foot evil, corns, ulceration of 
the foot, (navicular disease,) fistula, poll evil, ringbone and 
spavin, in their first stages. 

In the human subject this liniment has been known to cure 
repeatedly those troublesome affections known as tetter and 
scald head; but it is to be used with great caution in these 
cases, and not at all unless at least ten days old. 

Method of using. — Always shake the bottle well before 
taking out the stopper. Pour the liquid into an earthen 
vessel, as it corrodes vessels of metal. Apply with a little 
mop of soft rag. In all bone > affections the liniment is to be 
thoroughly dried in by means of a hot iron held close to the 
medicated spot, but not close enough to burn the animal. 
Particular directions are given, in connection with the descrip- 
tion of diseases, how to proceed in reference to quantity and 
manner of using the liniment. 

Caution. — Keep the materials for making out of the way 
of children, as it is a violent poison. Persons unacquainted 



140 TREATMENT OF WOUNDS. 

with it are sometimes alarmed at the severity with which it 
acts upon the skin of the horse. It inflames, corrodes and 
puffs out the skin. For cracked heels, spavin, ringbone, curb, 
windgalls, grease heels and all purposes of counter irritation, 
Stuart recommends that a little be spread on with a little 
sponge or mop. For corns, weak heels, tenderness of the 
feet, a diseased condition of the frog and sole, showing want 
of healthy secretion, or want of growth, bathe the parts 
thoroughly with it, and heat in with a shovel, repeating the 
application once a day. He says it is a specific for big leg if 
applied once a day. 

Note. — This is an active remedy, strongly poisonous. — D. M. 



SPRAINS AND BRUISES. 

It must be borne in mind, the first object in treating acute 
inflammation caused by injury of any kind is to lower the 
inflammation. Cold water, or one ounce of sugar of lead to 
a pint of water, would be better, and is a remedy of great 
value, to be used repeatedly until relief is afforded. 

The following is excellent : Saltpeter, 4 oz.; sugar of lead, 
1 oz.; muriate of ammonia, 1 oz.; common salt, 1 pint; cold 
water, 2 galls. Mix and bathe the parts affected; or keep 
constantly wet with the following, which is good : Tincture 
arnica, 2 oz.; cold water, 1 quart. This will prevent inflam- 
mation or swelling following a bruise or sprain. 

Anodyne Stimulating Liniment. 

Spirits of hartshorn, \% oz.; sulphuric ether, \% oz.; spirits 
of turpentine, %. oz.; sweet oil, % oz.; oil of cloves, ^ oz.; 
chloroform, 1 oz. Put into a strong 8 ounce bottle and cork 
lightly; keep in a dark place, or wrap with paper. This lini- 
ment relieves pain, and is good for lameness, etc., and for all 
cases of strains and soreness. To be well rubbed in. 

Oil of turpentine, 1 oz.; tine, opium, 1 oz.; soap liniment, 
1 oz.; tine, capsicum, % oz. Stimulating liniment; good for 
rheumatism, sprains, etc. 

Magic Liniment. 

Used very generally; good not only for sprains, bruises, 
etc., after the acute stage, but a fine counter-irritant for pleu- 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 141 

risy, inflammation, etc.: Oil of spike, 2. oz.; organum, 2 oz.; 
hemlock, 2 oz.; wormwood, 2 oz.; sweet oil, 4 oz.; spirits 
ammonia, 2 oz.; gum camphor, 2 oz.; spirits turpentine, 2 oz.; 
proof spirits, 1 quart — 90 per cent. Mix well together, and 
bottle tight. 

Sweating Liniment for Windfalls, Etc. 

Strong mercurial ointment, 2 oz.; camphor, % oz.; oil of 
rosemary, 2 drams ; oil of turpentine, 1 oz. Mix. 

Very Strong Sweating Blister, for Windgalls, Curbs, 
Splints, Etc. 

Beniodide of mercury, ^ to 1 dram ; powdered arnica 
leaves, 1 dram ; soap liniment, 2 oz. Mix. 

Very Strong Blister for Spavins, Ringbones, Curbs, Etc. 

Finely powdered cantharides, 1 oz.; powdered euphorbium, 
2 drams; lard, 1 oz.; tar, 2 oz. 

Cough Powder. 

Fenugreek, ginger, licorice and blooclroot, equal parts. 
Half proportion lobelia and camphor may be added. Dose, 
tablespoonful twice a day. For heaves, add more camphor. 

Farcy— Cure of. 

One-quarter pound sulphur, % pound saltpeter, 1 ounce 
black antimony. If acute, give one tablespoonful twice a 
day. If sub-acute, once or twice a week. 

The sum of $50 was repeatedly paid for this prescription. 
It is undoubtedly the best preparation ever published for this 
dangerous disease. Have been informed repeatedly by sub- 
scribers of their curing bad cases of farcy by this remedy. 

Cracked Heels. 

Two ounces resin, 2 ounces copperas, 2 ounces alum, 
1 ounce beeswax, 1 pint tar, size hen's egg of tallow ; boil 
over a slow fire, skim off the filth and add the scrapings of 
sweet elder a handful ; when cool, fit for use. 



142 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

This is a remedy of great value; have used it with the 
most marked success. This is the best remedy of which the 
writer has any knowledge for the cure of cracked heels. It 
is a splendid healing preparation for scratches, saddle or collar 
galls, or any inflammation of the skin, and is worth many 
times the price of this book. 

Cure of Scratches. 

Four ounces tincture arnica, 4 ounces glycerine. If heels 
are cracked badly, add : 1 ounce iodine, 2 ounces tincture 
myrrh, K ounce gun powder (powdered fine.) Put all into 
a bottle and shake thoroughly ; put on two or three times a 
day. 

In treating scratches, first give a dose of physic, or a few 
bran mashes. 

Cure of Grease Heels. 

One-quarter pound bar lead melted, mix in sulphur while 
hot ; let it burn until pulverized. Then add a tablespoonful 
of hog's lard. Wash the parts and rub on the ointment once 
or twice a day. A favorite remedy, and claimed to he very 
effective. Given by a physician. 

To Reduce Swelling of tlie Legs and Strengthen the 
Tendons after Hard Driving. 

A favorite remedy on Long Island. One pint alcohol, 
1 ordinary sized beef gall, 1 ounce organum, 1 ounce oil of 
spike, 1 ounce gum myrrh, %. ounce camphor gum. First 
wash and rub clean and dry. Then bathe with the liniment 
and rub dry. Then apply again and bandage the leg, being 
careful not to bandage too tight. 

This is the best liniment for the purpose recommended I 
have ever used. It should be kept in every stable. 

To Recruit a Horse Hide-bound or Otherwise Out of 
Sorts. 

Nitrate potassa (or saltpeter), 4 ounces; crude antimony, 
1 ounce ; sulphur, 3 ounces. Nitrate of potassa and anti- 
mony should be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur and 
mix the whole well together. Dose : A tablespoonful of the 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 143 

mixture in a bran mash daily, for a week or two. This is my 
favorite preparation when I wish to get in a condition. Its 
effect upon a horse out of sorts is sometimes wonderful. 

Condition Powders. 

Take 1 pound of ginger, 1 ounce of anise seed, pulverized, 
1 ounce of fenugreek seed, 2 ounces of ginseng root pulverized, 
1 ounce of the seed of sumach berries pulverized, 1 ounce of 
antimony ; mix it with one pound of brown sugar. This is 
excellent for coughs, colds, or to give a horse an appetite. 

To Cure Cougli— No. 2. Excellent. 

Put all the tar into alcohol it will cut, and add one-third in 
quantity of tincture belladonna. Dose: From one to two 
teaspoonfuls once or twice a day. Very good. 

To Cure Cougli— No. 3. 

Take tartar emetic, 1 ounce; resin, 2 ounces; bloodroot, 
1 ounce ; salts of tartar, 2 ounces ; ginger, 2 ounces. Mix, 
and give a teaspoonful three times a day, in the feed. 

For Fresh Strains, Etc. 

Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces ; apple vinegar, % gill. Rub 
in well. An excellent remedy. 

Preparation to Kill Lice on Horses. 

One ounce of arsenic to a pail of soft water. The horse 
should be washed thoroughly in some warm place. It is not 
known to many that hen lice and common human body lice 
grow on Jiorsea. with great rapidity. This remedy is a sure 
cure, and is invaluable. 

Healing Ointment for Cuts, Galls, Etc. Good. 

Oxide of zinc, pulverized fine, 4 drams ; carbolic acid, 6 
grains ; lard, 1 ounce. Melt the lard and stir in the zinc. 
Add the carbolic acid and mix thoroughly. Apply once or 
twice a day to the cut or injury. "Will cause a healthy dis- 
charge from a foul ulcer. 



14 4 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 



Healing Ointment for Thrush, Saddle Galls, Etc. A Good 
Thing. 

Two ounces blue vitriol, 1 ounce white vitriol, powdered 
finely as possible and rubbed down w T ith one pound of tar and 
two pounds of lard. 

Opthalniy Simple. 

Inflammation of the eyes frequently occurs in young horses 
soon after stabling. 

Symptoms. — A watery discharge from the [[eye, eyelids 
partly closed, membrane of lid on under side much reddened. 

Treatment. — Give the following ball, and bleed from the 
angular vein under the eye, allowing it to bleed until it stops 
from the coagulation of the blood: Barbadoes aloes, 6 drams; 
nitrate potassa, 2 drams; tartrate of antimony, 1 dram. Mix 
with molasses or honey in one ball. Bathe the eye with a 
solution as follows: Laudanum, 1 oz. ; rain water, 1 pint; 
mix. Or: Acetate of lead, 1 dram; sulphate of zinc, % dram; 
rain water, 3 pints. Mix for use. Either of the above may 
be applied with a soft sponge two or three times a day. 

Specific Opthalmy, (Moon Blindness.) 

Symptoms. — Membranes of the eye reddened, opacity, or 
white film over the eyeball, watery discharges from the eyes, 
which are partially closed. This disease is seldom cured 
effectually, but the eyes may be cleared up and the attacks 
warded off for some time by the following treatment: Open 
the bowels with the following ball: Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz. : 
gentian, pulverized, 2 drams ; niter, pulverized, 2 drams. Mix 
with molasses for one ball. Give night and morning one-half 
dram doses of colchicum root in the feed, which should be 
mashes, and bathe the eye with the following wash : Lauda- 
num, 1 oz. ; rain water, 1 pint. Mix, and bathe the eye two 
or three times a day. Or: Extract belladonna, 1 dram; rain 
water, 1 pint. Mix and use in like manner. 

Eye Wash. 

Take three hens' eggs and break them into a quart of clear, 
cold rain water; stir until a thorough mixture is effected; 
boil over a slow fire, stirring every few minutes; add half an 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 145 

ounce of sulphate of zinc, (white vitriol;) continue the boiling 
a short time, and the compound is ready for use. In this 
preparation a solid substance, or curd, is precipitated or thrown 
down, and a liquid solution rests upon the top. This is the 
best wash for the sore eyes of either man or beast that was 
ever made. The curd applied to the inflamed eye at night 
will draw the fever and soreness nearly all out by morning. 
After two or three days the water should be strained from 
the curd and put into a bottle for future use. This eye wash 
is invaluable. No physician or druggist has ever discovered 
a medicine of the kind equal to it. "When applied to the 
human eye it should be diluted. 

Hoof Liiuiinent for Contracted or Sore Feet. One of the 
Very Best Remedies. 

Venice turpentine, %, pint ; aqua ammonia, 2 oz ; salts of 
niter, 1 oz. ; benzine, 1 oz. ; alcohol, 3 oz. Apply to the 
edge of the hair and all over the hoof once a day for a week ; 
after that, for a week or two, three or four times a week, as 
may be necessary. 

Grease Heels. 

This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the heels 
of the horse. The skin becomes hot, tender and swollen. 
The acrid character of the discharge often causes large por- 
tions of the skin to slough away, leaving an ugly sore behind. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels with the following ball : 
Barbadoes aloes, 1 oz. ; pulverized gentian root, 2 drams ; 
pulverized ginger, 1 dram ; water sufficient to make the ball. 
Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or three days with the 
following : Flax seed meal mixed with a solution of 2 drams 
sulphate of zinc to a pint of water, which keep clean, and 
bathe frequently with glycerine, or the solution of zinc ; or a 
solution of the chloride of lime may be used ; or the bichlo- 
ride of mercury may be used in inveterate cases with good 
results, provided it is not repeated oftener than once a week. 

Thrush. 

This is a rotting of the frog, with a discharge of matter 
from the cleft or division of the frog, occasionally producing 
lameness. The treatment is simple and effectual. Wash the 

7 



146 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

parts well with soap and water, then apply powdered sulphate 
of copper to the parts, and fill up all the cavities with cotton, 
packed in so as to keep out all dirt. This process should be 
repeated in a few days if necessary. 

Canker. 

This is a more aggravated form of thrush, often proving 
very troublesome to manage. It is a continuation of the 
thrush between the horny frog and the internal structures of 
the foot, causing separation between them. 

Treatment. — Cut away all the horn which has been sepa- 
rated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply the fol- 
lowing ointment : Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, melt 
over a slow fire, and add sulphuric acid very slowly until 
ebullition (boiling) ceases. Or use: Collodion, % oz. ; castor 
oil, 1 oz. Mix and apply to the parts. The foot must be 
protected from dirt by a bandage or a leathern boot. 



These fungous growths appear in the horse most frequently 
about the mouth, nose and lips, but they are occasionally found 
upon other parts of the body. They tire sometimes found in 
large numbers about the lips of colts, and are generally rubbed 
off or drop off. If, however, they grow large and become 
deeply rooted, they may be cut off by passing a needle 
through the center, armed with a double thread, and tied 
tightly around the neck on each side. This prevents the pos- 
sibility of the ligatures being rubbed off. Or they may be 
painted over with the per-manganate of potash, a few applica- 
tions of which will entirely destroy warts of a large size; or 
they may be removed with a knife. 

Profuse Staling. 

The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diuretic 
medicines, as saltpeter, resin, &c. Unwholesome food will 
sometimes produce it. 

Treatment — Give one of the following balls every night : 
Powdered opium, % oz. ; powdered kino, 1 oz. ; prepared 
chalk, 1 oz. Mix with molasses, and make six balls. 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 147 



Bloody Urine 



Is generally the result of injuries of the loins, unwholesome 
food, violent exercise, &c. 

Treatment — Give plenty linseed tea to drink: if the animal 
refuses it, drench him. Give internally, once a clay, one of 
the following pills : Sugar of lead, 1 oz. ; linseed meal, 2 oz. 
Mix with molasses, and divide into eight parts. 

Quitter. 

This is a formation of pus between the hoof and the soft 
structure within ; a sore at the coronet or upper part of the 
foot, which at first is a hard, smooth tumor, soon becoming 
soft, and breaks, discharging quantities of pus. 

Treatment. — Poultice the foot for several days with flax 
seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut away all 
loose portions, but no more, and inject with a syringe either 
of the following once a day : Chloride of zinc, 2 drams, dis- 
solved in a pint of water; or, sulphate of zinc, \% drams, in 
a pint of water ; or, nitrate of silver, 2 drams, in a pint of 
water; or glycerine may be used with advantage. Before 
using the wash have the foot well cleaned with castile soap 
and water. 

Mange. 

Take the horse in the sun and scrub him thoroughly all 
over with castile soap and water, then wash him well from 
head to tail with gas water, in which put 2 drams white hel- 
lebore to the gallon. He must now be put in another stall, 
distant from the one in which he has been standing. Thus 
treated, it rarely requires more than one washing to effect a 
permanent cure. The harness should be thoroughly scrubbed 
and put away for six or eight weeks. These precautions are 
necessary to success in this otherwise troublesome disease. 

No. 2," — Oil turpentine, 4 oz. ; oil tar, 4 oz. ; linseed oil, 6 
oz. Mix. 

A Shoulder Strain. 

This is caused by severe blows, strains or falls, &c. 
Symptoms. — The animal drags the leg, with the toe on the 
ground, and cannot raise the foot. 



148 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

Treatment. — Local bleeding is very effectual, with a purg- 
ing ball. Fomenting the shoulder with hot water will be 
found useful in two or three days. The following liniment 
should be applied two or three times a day : Laudanum, 1 
oz. ; spirits camphor, 1 oz. ; tincture myrrh, 1 oz. ; castile 
soap, 1 oz. ; alcohol, 1 pint. Mix for use. Or : Linseed oil, 
1 pint ; oil turpentine, 2 oz. ; spirits hartshorn, 3 oz. Mix, 
shake well, and use once a day for three or four days. 

Nasal Gleet. 

This is a chronic discharge from one or both nostrils, of a 
whitish, muco-purulent matter, the result usually of neglected 
catarrh. The general health of the animal does not seem to 
suffer ; he looks well, feeds well and works well, yet we have 
this discharge, which is caused by weakness in the secretory 
vessels of the lining membrane of the nose. 

The successful treatment in all cases where this disorder 
lias existed has been on the tonic principle. Bleeding and 
purging are positively injurious. Give one of the following 
powders night and morning : Seaquin-chloride of iron, 2 oz. ; 
powdered cinnamon, 1 oz. Mix and divide into four powders. 
Or: Carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian and pulverized 
quassia, of each 1 oz. Divide into four powders. Or : Nux 
vomica, pulverized, %, oz. ; linseed meal, 2 oz. Divide into 
eight powders. Another good preparation is: Muriate of 
Barytes, % oz. j linseed meal, 1 oz. Divide into eight pow- 
ders. 



Are substances which burn away the tissues of the body by 
decomposition of their elements, and are valuable to destroy 
fungus growth and set up healthy action. 

Corrosive sublimate, in powder, acts energetically. 

Nitrate of silver is excellent to lower granulation. 

Sulphate of copper, not so strong as the above, but good. 

Chloride of zinc is a powerful caustic. It may be used in 
sinuses, in solution, 7 drams in a pint of water. 

Illilder Caustics. 

Verdigris, either in powder or mixed with lard, as an oint- 
ment, in proportion of one to three. 



TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 149 

Butter of Antimony. — For corns, canker, indisposition of 
the sole to secrete healthy horn, wounds in the foot not 
attended by healthy action, and for every case where the 
superficial application of a caustic is needed, the chloride of 
antimony (butter of antimony) is one of the very best. 

Sticking-Plaster, for Cuts or Wounds. 

Burgundy pitch, 4 oz. ; tallow, 2 oz. Melt the articles 
together, and spread on linen or cloth while hot. Cut in 
strips of proper length and width, and draw the wound 
together ; warm the strips and apply them. Clip the hair 
short where the plaster is to be applied. 

To Abate Swelling Caused by an Injury. 

Take common wormwood, 2 oz. ; New England Rum, 1 
quart. Steep the wormwood in the liquor and apply thor- 
oughly. 

I enclose the following receipt as one of reputed great .value 
for the cure of Ringbones and Spavins. Will take off the 
enlargement. One hundred dollars could not buy this recipe, 
and the owner deemed himself in possession of the best remedy 
in the world. It is one of the best of this class of remedies. 



Ringbone Liniment. 

First. — Alcohol, 14 oz. ; iodine, 304 grains; bichloride of 
mercury, 150 grains. Let stand in a sand bath twenty-two 
hours, then add 230 drops croton oil; let stand in sand bath 
twenty-two hours longer, then bottle for use. 

Powder for Spavins and Ringbones. 

Quicksilver, 14 oz. ; nitric acid, 7 oz. ; stir one minute; 
cantharides, 7 drams; stir five minutes; sulphuric acid, 7 oz. ; 
stir three minutes; 50 drops of the above liniment. Let 
stand five hours, stir every half hour, then add 7 oz. prepared 
chalk. 

First shave the hair off the "bunch," then apply the lini- 



150 TREATMENT OF DISEASES. 

ment with a lather brush. Sprinkle a little of the powder on 
paper, and rub on, after washing with the liniment. When 
the bunch is reduced two-thirds, wash with warm water and 
castile soap. In twenty-four hours grease. 
This will cure, but it is sure to blemish. 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Adapting Efforts to Circumstances 18 

Appliances for Subjection 66 

Appyling War Bridle 66 

Anodyne Liniment 140 

Absorbing Blister — Powerful 138 

Active Blister 138 

Applying Bandage 117 

Be Uniform in Language 9 

Bad Effects of Fright 14 

Bitting ." 23 

Bitting Harness 24 

Breaking Kickers 43 

Balking 50 

Breaking the Halter Puller 5Q 

Breeding 72 

Bonner's Plan of Feeding Dexter 80 

Blacksmiths' Faults 95 

Bar Shoe for Corns . . 102 

Broken Wind 123 

Bone Spavin 126 

Blood Spavin 128 

Bleeding 134 

Bog Spavin 128 

Bloody Urine 147 

Care in Breeding 14 

Counteracting Effects of Fright 15 

Caution in Whipping 16 

Courage in Handling Horses 16 

Correcting Errors 19 

Correcting Bad Habits 40 

Cure for Balking 54 

Cribbing 60 

Cure for Cribbing 61 

Cure a Trotter of Breaking 71 



152 CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Carrots for Feeding 79 

Cats Showing Formation of the Foot 89 

Cuts Showing Formation of the Leg 90 

Contraction of the Feet 96 

Convex Shoe for Contracted Feet £ 9 

Corns 100 

Care of the Feet 105 

Colic 107 

Colic and Inflammation of Bowels Contrasted 108 

Congestion of the Lungs 113 

Catarrh or Cold 115 

Cure for Cold 116 

Cure for Inflammation of Bowels 118 

Cure for Heaves 124 

Cure for Locked Jaw 126 

Curbs 129 

Coflin Joint Lameness 130 

Cure for Sweeny 132 

Cuts and Wounds 136 

Cure for Indolent Ulcers 138 

Corrosive Liniment 139 

Cough Powder 141 

Cracked Heels 141 

Condition Powders 143 

Cure for Cough— No. 2 143 

Canker 146 

Caustics 148 

Driving the Colt 26 

Driving to Wagon 27 

Double Driving 28 

Diseases of the Feet 97 

Different Forms of Shoes 104 

Diseases and their Treatment 107 

Education of Horses 5 

Extremes of Intelligence and Disposition 10 

Extreme Cases of Fear . 38 

Effect of Kindness 53 

Eight Tailed Bandage 117 

Eye Wash— Excellent 144 

Fear 31 

Fear of a Kobe 34 



CONTEXTS. 153 

Page. 

Fear of Umbrella, or Sound of a Gun 34 

Fear of Kailroad Cars 35 

Fear of Objects while Driving 35 

Four Eing Bit 67 

Foot Strap for Driving 68 

Food and Feeding 77 

Fitting the Shoes 92 

Faults of Blacksmiths 95 

Flatulent Colic 109 

Founder 121 

Favorite Bemedies for Heaves 125 

Good Bcmedy for Colic 110 

Grease Heels— Cure for 142 

Grease Heels 145 

Handling Vicious Horses 17 

Haltering the Colt 21 

Hitching the Colt 22 

Harnessing the Colt 25 

Hitching to Wagon Poles 26 

Handling the Feet 30 

Hints on Breeding 73 

Hints on Watering 81 

Hints on Shoeing 91 

How to Nail a Shoe Properly 96 

Heaves .123 

How to Bleed a Horse 134 

Heave Powders 141 

Healing Ointment for Cuts, Galls, etc 143 

Hoof Liniment for Contracted or Sore Feet 145 

Interfering 102 

Interfering Shoe 102 

Interfering Pad 103 

Inflammation of the Lungs Ill 

Inflammation of the Bowels 118 

Inflammation of the Kidneys 119 

Inflammation of the Bladder 120 

Inflammation of the Brain 120 

Kicking in Harness 43 

Kicking Straps 45 

Kicking while Harnessing 47 

Kicking while Grooming 48 



154 CONTEXTS. 

Page. 

Kicking while Shoeing 48 

Kicking while in the Stall 50 

Kicking against the Stall 04 

Kicking Cows 65 

Laminitis 121 

Liniment for Open Wounds 137 

Liniment for Foul Ulcers 138 

Liniment for Inflammation 138 

Liniment for Galled Shoulders and Back 138 

Lameness from Injuries of the Feet 106 

Must See Objects from Different Positions 36 

Mounting a Horse 29 

Make Follow with Whip 82 

Mad Staggers 121 

Magic Healing Preparation 137 

Moon Blindness 144 

Mange 147 

Nailing the Shoes 94 

Navicular Disease 130 

Nasal Gleet 148 

Overcoming Fear 32 

Overdraw Check 46 

Oats vs. Corn for Feed 78 

Opening an Abscess 117 

Preface 5 

Principles of Mental Control 7 

Pole Applied for Balkers 55 

Pulling on the Halter 58 

Prevent Getting Cast in Stall 02 

Prevent Jumping Fences 63 

Putting Tongue Out of Mouth 62 

Pawing in the Stall 64 

Pricking in Shoeing 103 

Pleurisy Ill 

Physicing 135 

Preparation for Wounds 136 

Profuse Staling 146 

Powder for Spavins and Ringbones 149 

Quarter Crack 101 

Quitter 147 

Pvules in Breeding 13 



CONTENTS. 155 

Page. 

Hiding the Colt 29 

Running Away 40 

Eunning Back 42 

Remarks on Shoeing 88 

Eingbone 126 

Retention of Urine 132 

Eeduce Swelling of Legs after Hard Driving 142 

Ringbone Liniment 149 

Short Lessons, but Thorough 10 

Special Remarks on Subjection 88 

Safety Shafts 39 

Suggestions on Breeding 72 

Shoeing 87 

Structure of the Foot 89 

Symptoms of Colic 107 

Spasmodic Colic 107 

Symptoms of Pleurisy 112 

Symptoms of Inflammation of Lungs 112 

Symptoms of Pneumonia 114 

Symptoms of Inflammation of Bowels 118 

Symptoms of Worms 133 

Strangles 116 

Staggers 121 

Spavin . 126 

Splints 129 

Sweeny 131 

Scours, or Purging 132 

Sprains and Bruises 140 

Sweating Liniment for Windgalls, etc 141 

Sweating Blister for Curbs, Splints, etc 141 

Strong Blister for Spavins, Ringbones, etc 141 

Scratches," Cure for 142 

Simple Opthalmy 144 

Specific Opthalmy 144 

Shoulder Strains 147 

Sticking Plaster for Cuts, Wounds, etc 149 

Treat According to Disposition 12 

Training the Wild Colt 20 

Turning Around 41 

- Test Kickers Repeatedly 44 

To Work a Balker Single 56 



156 CONTENTS. 

Page. 

To Cure Biting and Striking 59 

The Jumper 64 

Training in the Trot 69 

Trotting 69 

The Breeding Mare 74 

Testing Brood Mares 75 

Teaching Tricks 82 

Teaching to Follow 82 

Teaching to Lie Down 84 

Teaching to Sit Up 84 

Teaching to Make a Bow 85 

Teaching to say Yes and No 85 

Teaching to Kiss You 85 

Teaching Horse to Dance 86 

Teaching Horse to Waltz 86 

The Hoof, Cuts of 88 

Treating Contracted Feet 99 

Tyrrel's Patent Shoe for Contracted Feet 100 

Treatment for Corns 101 

Treatment for Sore Feet 105 

Typhoid Pneumonia 114 

Treatment for Strangles 117 

Treatment for Founder 122 

Tetanus, or Locked Jaw 125 

Treatment for Bone Spavin 127 

Treatment for Kingbone 128 

Thoroughpin 128 

Thumps 133 

Tape Worms 133 

Thrush 145 

To Abate Swellings from Injuries 149 

Using Blinders 36 

War Bridle 65 

Weak Heels 104 

Whipping Dangerous 15 

Watering 80 

Worms 133 

Wash for Inflamed Wounds 136 

Wash for Fresh Wounds 137 

Warts 146 






£2> 





















'C%5 






SB* 















2>pGiO£> 

2» "» »J> 



>J£>~J> X>> 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

002 863 237 A< 



